HANDS-ON: Why the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years” is the underdog of their anniversary collection
By now you’ve likely been beaten over the head with the endless coverage of IWC’s cool Tribute to Pallweber, with its jumping hours and minutes, and seen the additions to the growing Portofino collection. Hiding in the corner of IWC’s presentation, alongside a pair of Big Pilot models rested a lone chronograph – the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Edition “150 Years”. Limited to only 1000 pieces worldwide, this new version of IWC’s classic 3777 isn’t particularly groundbreaking, though it is one of the cooler interpretations we’ve seen in a while. Though at first glance this may seem like a simple white dial, a closer examination reveals something much more charming. All of the 27 watches in IWC’s new “capsule collection” unveiled for the brand’s 150th anniversary are fitted with either white or blue lacquer dials with printed indices, and either blued or rhodium-plated hands. A total of 12 layers of lacquer are applied to each dial before being finished in order to achieve a rich finish similar to that of the enamel dials from IWC’s rich archives. In the case of the 3777 Pilot Chronograph, its recessed subdials appear a fair bit more three dimensional than they do on the standard black…
The post HANDS-ON: Why the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years” is the underdog of their anniversary collection appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
It’s clear that Girard-Perregaux have decided they’re onto a winner with their sporty-yet-luxurious Laureato, as new versions of the model dominated the brand’s SIHH 2018 line-up. Laureato Chronograph The piece I gravitated towards was the Laureato Chronograph, a modular upgrade to the regular automatic; the familiar Clous de Paris texture of the dial joined by three snailed subdials, while the case — in both 38 and 42mm options — has grown some crown guards and octagonal screw-down pushers that are actually easy to screw down. A real joy to use, and it doesn’t look too bad on the wrist either. Laureato Ceramic While we saw ceramic versions of the Laureato this year, the rubber strap is a small, but significant, addition. It adds even more to the ceramic case’s feeling of lightness, and accentuates the watch’s sporty character. And the range of finishings on the black ceramic case isn’t just beautiful — it’s a testament to GP’s skill. Laureato Flying Tourbillon If the Ceramic Laureato is stealthy, this Flying Tourbillon is a standout. Shown only in precious metals, the dial is seriously photogenic, thanks to its dramatic architecture and finishing. The constantly whirring, slightly off-centre tourbillon is the undisputed star.…
In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc’s Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is this, the Montblanc 1858 Automatic. Montblanc 1858 Automatic steel and bronze with black dial (ident 117832 – 117833) There’s a lot to like about these watches, but before we go into details, let’s talk about what the difference is between these and the original 1858 watches. The most significant change is the size, down from 44 to 40mm, which is much more friendly for many more people. Then there’s the movement, the automatic MB 24.15, which is, again, more of a crowd-pleaser. Beyond the basics, the case is more refined than before, with nice chamfered details and a bronze bezel as standard; it’s also rated to 100m. The dial is definitely vintage (thanks in no small part to those cathedral-style hands), and slightly military — which is exactly the look Montblanc were going for. Bonus points for no date window, and the domed sapphire crystal. Strap options are either a high-quality fabric strap (think Tudor),…
As SIHH kicks off, I’m prepared to bet – yes, even on the opening day – that this chronograph will emerge as one of the top watches of the week. Because it’s just so darned gorgeous and it has a great backstory. As you may know, in 2007 Montblanc took over the historic Minerva manufacture and began producing some seriously beautiful high-complication watches – notably the ExoTourbillon and Geospheres series. But a question remained: since Minerva was perhaps the greatest chronograph maker of the 20th century, where were the chronographs? We got the first answer after Jérôme Lambert became CEO in 2013: the Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph, launched at SIHH 2014 to rave reviews. The styling, based on a 1940s doctors’ watch, was perfectly judged and beautifully executed. The real excitement, though, was the new in-house movement. Calibre M13.21 was derived directly from the revered Minerva cal. 13.20 – a mono-pusher chronograph with column-wheel clutch and horizontal gear coupling (more about this below). Marking the 90th anniversary of Meisterstück, it was a limited edition of 90 pieces. And the movement didn’t appear in any subsequent model. Was that it? Yes but no. At SIAR in October 2015, Montblanc introduced the 1858…
While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It’s also a watch that speaks most directly to the “spirit of mountain exploration” that underpins the line. Like all the watches Montblanc have released at SIHH 2018, the 1858 Geosphere is rugged, sporty and quite retro. But on top of this, the 1858 Geosphere has maps on the dial, and a compass on the bezel. But before we get to the details, let’s look at the bigger picture. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere steel with black dial (ident 117837) The 1858 Geosphere offers what Montblanc say is a “new worldtime complication”, which adds some geographic representation and day/night indicator to a dual time watch. The local time is on the large hands, and the home time (hours only) is on the subdial at nine. The dial though is dominated by the northern and southern hemisphere day/night indicators at 12 and six o’clock. In practice, pulling the crown out to the second position of the crown adjusts both time zones, and the hemisphere indicators, while in the first position it adjusts the date and the local time…
For a brand with a long, rich history, Girard-Perregaux is a dab hand at the ultra-modern, as evidenced by this Neo Tourbillon with Three Bridges Skeleton. This watch is the first skeletonised execution of the Neo Tourbillon. And while there’s no denying that this 45mm titanium-cased marvel of miniaturised engineering is – indeed – a watch, from the right angles you could easily mistake it for a scale model of a particularly audacious and artistic building project. The Neo Tourbillon is dominated, as you would expect, by the horizontal bridges, curved and shimmering thanks to the bezelled, sandblasted black PVD-finished bridges (rather than the more traditional gold). Between these bridges, scarcely hidden from sight is the 0.25 gram tourbillon cage at the bottom, and a large power barrel (good for at least 60 hours) at the top of the watch, powered by a unidirectional micro-rotor, in 18K white gold. These elements, which words don’t really do justice to, comprise the calibre GP 09400-0011. The lucky wearer’s view of this aggressively modern 9.54mm thick movement is ensured by the clear, highly cambered convex glassbox sapphire crystal. Don’t be fooled by the size, this sharp style and finely balanced micro-engineering of their Girard-Perregaux…
In a few hours, Andrew and I are getting on a plane for the long (long) haul to Geneva — where, bright and early on Monday morning, we will head to the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH to its friends. It’s an acronym you’re going to be hearing a heck of a lot about over the next week, and if you’re new to the whole watch situation you just might be scratching your head as to what it is, and why it matters. Well, here’s Andrew’s explanation of last year’s Salon. SIHH 2018 will be pretty similar, only with lots of new watches. So, not really that similar. Anyway, enjoy and stay tuned to the site, our Facebook, Instagram and YouTube feeds for all the action, as it happens.
Today we’re looking back at the iconic Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox Polaris, an extremely rare and somewhat mysterious dive watch — which lately has been garnering a lot of attention. The Memovox Polaris was an extremely functional offering, delivered by Jaeger-LeCoultre during a time when the world was fascinated by deep sea exploration. The 1950s and ’60s are referred to as the ‘golden age’ of dive watchmaking, and the Polaris was certainly a highlight of that period, which is why we’re taking a look at it today. Most of you should be familiar with the famous Jaeger-LeCoultre Memovox, given recent reissue pieces and famous ‘barn finds’ in the last few years. But if you’re new to the JLC Memovox Polaris (ref E859), we can understand why. Only 1714 were made — making it far less common than the Memomox timepieces from the same period. The first Memovox Polaris prototype was developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in the early 1960s, before being released in minimal volumes in the late ’60s. Basically, it was a beefed-up Memovox — designed with deep-diving and wetsuits in mind (not cocktails and tailored suits). So, how was the Memovox Polaris different to a ‘regular Memovox’? Well, firstly, the Polaris was a dive…
Editor’s note: This week we’ve been all about summer watches, which leads, not surprisingly, into the realm of divers. And while many dive watches tend to be ultra-masculine, even slightly hyperbolic affairs, the Legend Diver from Longines cuts a smoother figure, especially on this mesh bracelet. It’s like an old-school gentleman in a world that seems, at times, to have forgotten its manners. A while ago we had a look at one of the classic watches from Longines’ catalogue, the Legend Diver – a heritage diver inspired by old-school super compressors. The Legend has always been popular amongst watch lovers, and an important precursor to the heritage trend that has slowly grown to become all-encompassing. Turns out that the Legend Diver celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, and Longines has celebrated by popping on a new strap option – a heavy and handsome Milanese mesh bracelet. And while the watch itself is unchanged, this woven steel bracelet is a great example of the old-watch-chestnut that changing your strap is the next best thing to getting a new watch. The thick and supple Milanese is a choice that’s entirely appropriate for a diver, but functionally it gives the Legend a far more dressy…
Every November/December, like clockwork, I start pondering what constitutes the perfect summer watch, due in large part to the fact that in these months the mercury begins to rise rapidly. So what makes a summer watch? To be a contender, I think a timepiece must have three essential characteristics: water resistance, weather-suitability and a fun personality. This Halios Seaforth delivers on all fronts. Halios, if you’re not familiar, are a small Canada-based microbrand, who have risen to the top of the multitudinous mass of microbrands through their constantly strong watches, which are well built and — importantly — original when it comes to their design. Last year we looked at the second iteration of the Puck, which to me epitomises Halios’ past — tough, slightly OTT dive watches. The Seaforth, on the other hand, is a far better representation as to where the brand is going — more subdued, versatile, but still solid. The Seaforth is a 41mm steel-cased watch, with 200m of water resistance, a range of dial and bezel options (this option is in unmissable Bahama Yellow, with a GMT bezel), a lovely, domed sapphire crystal and simple-but-striking baton indices and matching hands, filled with C3 SuperLuminova, and outlined…