VIDEO: 6 signs the Tudor Black Bay might be the watch for you
Earlier this week we gave you some helpful watch/life advice to see if you’re the sort of person who should strap a Tudor Pelagos on the wrist. This advice would have been quite helpful if you’re the action-and-adventure type, whose idea of a good time is scrambling over rocks. But if the only rocks you’re into come in the bottom of a glass, under a healthy layer of finely distilled scotch, then the sporty diver might not be your speed. Don’t worry though, Tudor has a few more tricks up its sleeve, in this case the Black Bay, a versatile retro diver that does an excellent job of adding a splash of style to your wrist. Not that you need it.
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This morning, as I sipped my morning coffee and perused YouTube, I noticed a video in my ‘suggested feed’, titled ‘I just bought a 3,000,000 watch’. Obviously, I was intrigued, and couldn’t resist clicking through. As I skimmed through the video, it was apparent that YouTube star Logan Paul, who posted the video, didn’t actually buy a $3 million dollar watch – he just tried it on (it was a very impressive Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, ref 6300 FWIW). He did, however, purchase his first Rolex, and a rather nice one at that. Now, quickly – for those of you wondering who Logan Paul is – pull your head out of the sand and ask anyone you know who’s under the age of 25. Pegged to be the first ‘social media billionaire’, he boasts over 13 million YouTube subscribers, 15.4 million Instagram followers, and 16 million Facebook ‘likes’. He’s a social media juggernaut, a 22-year-old college dropout who’s worked out how to capitalise multiple social media platforms, and is nailing it. So, what did he buy? Well, during a promotional trip to Dubai, Logan treated himself to a Rolex Day-Date II, in platinum with an ice blue dial, and Roman…
In recent years, we’ve witnessed Montblanc – who acquired Minerva back in 2006 – embrace the storied bygone days of its Villeret movement manufacturer. They’ve developed innovative complications, and paid tribute with dressy heritage-style timepieces. And this year they’ve revamped their modern TimeWalker collection, keeping the contemporary styling, while paying tribute to the illustrious motorsport heritage of Minerva. Sitting amongst the simple three-handers and limited-edition rally timers of the collection is the TimeWalker Chronograph UTC. A sporty chronograph with a dual-time complication. What immediately sets the Chronograph UTC apart from the other TimeWalkers is its black DLC-treated 43mm case. Structurally it shares the exact same shape and semi-skeletonised lugs as the rest of the collection. Only bolder and blacked-out. The unidirectional ceramic bezel is engraved with a 24-hour scale – revealing its readiness to travel – and the bezel edge, along with the crown and pushers, is knurled – a functional finish common on vintage race cars. On the back is a smoked pane of sapphire crystal, uncovering the Calibre MB 25.03 movement beating inside. This is Montblanc’s variation of the ETA 7754, and has a power reserve of 46 hours. Water resistance is also a jaunty 100m. The dial…
New York’s Museum of Modern Art is showcasing a collection of the 111 items of clothing and accessories that impacted the 20th and 21st centuries entitled Items: Is Fashion Modern? Timeless garments such as Levi’s 501s and the Little Black Dress, and two watches — Rolex and Swatch. But which is more iconic? The battle for the most enduring watch of the 20th century is on … If we measured success in this exhibition on numbers alone, then Swatch is the clear winner. Its tally includes a 1985 Mille Pattes model, designed by Keith Haring, 1983’s GB100 and GK100 Jelly Fish; plus two ’90s models, while a solitary ’70s Rolex Datejust keeps a cool distance. Before you get red-faced, the Rolex Datejust is a bestseller today and there’s no dishonouring Rolex. As a matter of substance, the sturdy, man-of-the-world Rolex, born in 1905, has understated classicism and brand prestige cornered. The Items specimen, a Rolex Datejust Ref. 1601 with a stainless steel Jubilee bracelet and white gold fluted bezel (loaned by Hodinkee, by the way), a successor to the original 1945 Datejust; the first wristwatch with an automatically changing date window. It was a revolution that redefined the relationship to a watch; an innovation that synchronised…
Seiko drop a LOT of watches at Basel. It’s like a candy store, with everything from super-hot limited editions, to Prospex, to Presage. All there in front of you. And I’m sure I only see a fraction of what’s on offer. It can be overwhelming. But even so, a few watches stand out, and they’re not always the ones you expect. For me, one of those watches was the SPB049J, a sober time-and-date tonneau with a classical dial in enamel. Now, a tonneau, or barrel-shaped case, is relatively uncommon, and can be hard to get right. They tend to veer either to the very sporty, or, in this instance, the very traditional. But something about this watch just works. The dial is, as you’d expect from enamel, light and lustrous, the black printed Roman numerals and text is wonderfully crisp, the ideal backdrop for the leaf-shaped blued steel hands and that seconds hand, with its crescent-moon tipped counterweight. They’re hands I’d happily look at all day long. The only slight jarring note in the dial design is the printed square around the date aperture, which is quite roughly finished around the edges. I don’t mind the border per se, but…
Editor’s Note: This review of the classic Rolex Datejust is a little different to the usual. While we generally spend a couple of days with a watch, Bruce Duguay has been wearing his Datejust for a couple of years. Bruce shares the sort of insights that only come over time. It’s a great companion piece to one of our most popular reviews, Bruce’s excellent review of the Rolex GMT-Master II BLNR. It’s also worth pointing out that the watch pictured isn’t Bruce’s actual timepiece, but rather an earlier Reference 16200 with a different dial and bracelet to Bruce’s watch. With those minor admin points out of the way, read on to find out why the Datejust is such a classic. One fateful day after deciding it was finally time to get a Rolex Submariner, I walked into my local Rolex boutique and proceeded to try on the “wrong” watch. The only reason I even agreed to try on the Datejust was because I’d convinced myself it was the right thing to do. I would try on a few models, then do what most 30-something reasonably successful men do, and buy a black dial Submariner. The Datejust was supposed to feel like a…
A little while ago, we put together a list of luxury sports watches and it went – to use a technical term – bananas. There’s something about the combination of utility and exclusivity that really appeals to people. And as I look down at the Laureato on my wrist as I type this, I can honestly say, I get it. Sure, tool-like dive watches and sporty chronographs fill a place in our watch-loving hearts that crave functionality and purpose, but a watch like the Laureato offers something more. Purpose and practicality, with ample lashings of beauty. I mean, just look at how that Clous de Paris dial, or those bracelet links, blaze in the light. This watch looks good in pictures, but it comes alive on the wrist. Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm Australian Pricing Girard-Perregaux Laureato 42mm, in steel on bracelet, $16,080
Wait, Basel in November?! What’s going on here? An understandable reaction but, still, Baselworld 2018 is in the headlines, five whole months before it opens its doors. But we’ll get to that in a second, right after we finish mixing this delicious summery cocktail (a lukewarm beer IRL), and saunter off to (yet another) glamorous party (more deadlines IRL). Let’s wind this Friday down! What happened? Well, last night I got a seemingly innocuous email from the Baselworld mailing list I’m subscribed to. I was tempted to archive it for future *cough* reading *cough*, but my curiosity was piqued, as it seemed pretty early. And I am glad I hit open, because there were some key words in the opening lines that really jumped out at me: ‘Baselworld repositions its concept’. Huh? Now, for as long as I (or most) can remember, Baselworld has been the immovable rock of the watch industry. A shambling, spectacular, monolithic event, sprawled over two weeks. Well, that’s all set to change next year, as the fair is shorter, running for six instead of eight days, and far smaller, with an expected 600 – 800 exhibiting companies. Down around 50 per cent from the 1500…
Just one look at their anchor-shaped logo should be a clue to the centuries old maritime heritage of Ulysse Nardin. Their Marine collection, which has hoisted the sails for more than 20 years, was last year celebrated with the release of the mesmerisingly complicated Ulysse Nardin Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon. After all, UN aren’t only about the high seas. Avant-garde designs and clever complications are common throughout their catalogue. This year, UN have added a warm touch to the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon, with a darker colour scheme and a change of material for the case. Now made from 18k rose gold, the case remains sized at 44mm, and shares most of the same design codes as the rest of the Marine collection. It still has the same fluted bezel, integrated lugs with leather strap, and screw-down rubber-coated crown – helping to maintain its 100m water resistance. However, as with the original, the star of the show is the way in which the Marine Grand Deck Tourbillon displays the time. Top and centre of the dial is a large jumping hour display, which is quickly and independently adjusted by a pusher at 2 o’clock. Working in conjunction to display the…
A few hours ago, watchmaking’s night of nights – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève – wrapped up (though we suspect the afterparties may still be in full swing), and 15 prizes, along with a special jury prize, were awarded by the jury. The GPHG awards are often hotly debated, but do, nonetheless, provide an interesting barometer of where the watch industry is at. This year’s winners are an interesting mix of bigger brands and niche players, haute horology and a more mass approach. I also think it’s great to see a focus on commercially minded innovation, which is perhaps indicative of where the industry’s mind is at right now. But that’s enough from me. Here are the winners. MEN’S WATCH PRIZE Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic This hotly tipped favourite is a worthy winner. Read our review here. “AIGUILLE D’OR” GRAND PRIX Chopard L.U.C. Full Strike Chopard has quietly been making excellent watches for years. It just paid off, big time. LADIES’ WATCH PRIZE Chanel Première Camélia Skeleton Chanel’s second manufacture movement is an attractive blend of brand motif and engineering prowess. LADIES’ HIGH-MECH WATCH PRIZE Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Papillon Automate Whimsical. Ingenious. Beautiful. When it comes…