INSIGHT: Why the Hublot Haters have it wrong
So, in some parts of the watchosphere, it’s fashionable to be a Hublot Hater. While I’m not a HH (professional detachment, there are other, better uses for my energy), I will admit to being in the “not loving it” camp for quite some time. It was the bigness, the brashness, the it-watchness of it all. Given the choice, I’ll take off-trend. It was the flashy image – the rappers, footballers and boxers. Which is ironic, really, since Hublot began with Carlo Crocco as the anti-bling of the 1980s. At the time, the watch world was elbow-deep in gold, with wall-to-wall Cartier and Rolex. And then Hublot arrived: a matt black rubber strap on the gold. The brand was as polarising then as it is today, but in a different way. There were still the questions you can find all over the internet: the price-to-value relationship? Originator of materials or an opportunist? Creator or copyist? …Hublot began as the anti-bling of the 1980s. At the time, the watch world was elbow-deep in yellow gold, with wall-to-wall Cartier and Rolex. And then Hublot arrived: a matt black rubber strap on the gold. Especially, it was the loudness. Jean-Claude Biver’s Hublot has been PR-noise turned up…
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Rado is synonymous with ceramic. The brand pioneered the use of the material, creating its very own niche along the way. With its combination of incredible scratch resistance and lightness, it’s easy to see why it’s such a good material for watch cases. Perhaps the most iconic of all ceramic watches is the aptly named Rado Ceramica, which debuted nearly three decades ago. This chic and minimalist design is something of an evergreen, looking as fresh today as it did when it was first released. This year Rado decided to take on the challenging task of refreshing the Ceramica, seeking help from renowned industrial designer, Konstantin Grcic. Grcic is known for his simplistic take on design and passion for technology and avant-garde materials, so naturally, he was the perfect fit. But don’t just take our word for it: the watch recently won a Red Dot award for product design. There are two new Ceramica models. With the same strong lines and gently curved outline, the bold rectangular cases and integrated bracelets of these two new additions have been given the full matt treatment – one in black and the other in a softer grey. The dial of the matt black…
Anyone that’s been touched by motor neurone disease, in any way, is likely to want to help the world find a cure. It’s a brutal and dehumanising disease. The one Australian that’s done the most to raise the profile of sufferers, by creating the ‘Fight MND’ organisation, is Australian Football League legend, Neale Daniher. He calls the insidious disease ‘the beast’. Neale has MND, and he’s bravely taking it on in the hopes that increased awareness may lead to not only better care for those afflicted, but also to increased funding for vital research into finding a cure. ‘Cool Kids for MND’ is holding a raffle to raise funds for Daniher’s Drive, one of Fight MND’s big fundraising efforts, to be drawn this Friday the 25th August. First prize is a limited edition Oris Royal Flying Doctor Service 2 on a leather strap, valued at $2600, generously donated by Oris Australia. We thought you might be interested in entering. Tickets are $10 each or three for $25. Buy raffle tickets here. Co-founder of Cool Kids, and one of Neale’s daughter Lauren’s best friends is Brianna Benedetti. She explains why Fight MND is a worthy, and moving, cause: “We’ve seen Neale go from early stages…
You don’t need to sell us on Patek’s 5711/1A. It’s the Nautilus. In fact, you might go so far as to say it’s the steel sports watch. The case, the dial — that bracelet. Heck, even the date. It all works. The only bad thing about it? Unless you’re seriously connected, you can’t just walk into your local AD, drop the $32,300 AUD and walk out with it on your wrist. You need to wait. And, I think we can all agree that waiting sucks. So don’t. Here are five excellent options to scratch that itch a whole lot quicker. Glashütte Original Senator Excellence Perpetual Calendar It might not be a Genta-designed icon, but Glashütte’s latest is a traditionally styled perpetual calendar with a thoroughly modern movement and an excellent price. Yes, please. $30,200 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona in yellow gold on Oysterflex The steel Daytona is even harder to score than the Nautilus, but the latest yellow gold version on a sporty Oysterflex? Far more achievable. Plus it’s an awesomely fresh take on an old favourite. $34,900 A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin 40mm Look. We know it’s kind of the polar opposite to the Patek, looks wise, but it…
Like many story ideas we brainstorm together on a Monday morning, ‘end-of-the-world watches’ seemed to be a winner at the time. But now that we’re at the end-of-the-week, that mushroom cloud image makes us cringe. It’s all just become a tad too real. I’d be lying if I said I hadn’t thought a lot about our Guam followers this week. And, for that matter, our Seoul buddies, not to mention the northern reaches of Australia that could also be affected by nuclear fallout. Not comedic at all, really. The good news story though is that while about 10% of commenters on the question – what would you wear on your wrist at the end of days? – made the fairly reasonable point that they would have other things on their mind, the rest were happy to play along and list their apocalypse-ready wrist wear. So, in a themed Friday Wind Down, we’re picking out the lightest, most lol-worthy responses to a post that was never intended to cause any kind of existential malaise. No matter where you are, please charge your glass and hug your loved ones a little tighter. Right after you’ve enjoyed these stirling suggestions, all pulled from our Instagram. To see and join the conversation still raging…
There have been big changes at the Franck Muller manufacture over the last couple of years. The once homely property on a hillside looking out over Lake Geneva has been thoroughly expanded and modernised – Baroque and Romanesque flourishes inside and out have been updated to the more spacious proportions created by exposed beams and vaulted ceilings, all befitting of a luxurious ski lodge. Somewhere in a light-filled room appointed with watchmaker’s benches in this village of multi-storey buildings is the Franck Muller ‘Tourbillon Department’. The warmest thing in this room, no matter the time of year, is Patrice Couston’s smile. He is the head of the Department and his passion for what he does is unmistakeable. To the extent that, after a tour and his explanation of some of the challenges faced in by one attempting to assemble a tourbillon, he reached into his pocket and pulled out a watch he had assembled in his spare time at home, also a tourbillon. “I’m crazy for the tourbillon so I said ok, I will transform this movement into a tourbillon. So I did.”
Until its relaunch earlier this year, the IWC Da Vinci collection was sometimes overlooked, and unfairly so, as it has housed several “firsts” for the company. First introduced in 1969, it was the first watch from the Schaffhausen manufacturer to feature a quartz movement – the famous Beta 21 – which was the product of a collaboration between 21 of the top Swiss houses, including Omega and Patek Philippe. Then, in 1985 the collection was given new life with the release of the awe-inspiring Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (ref. 3750). Equipped with a perpetual calendar module developed by IWC’s renowned master watchmaker, Kurt Klaus – which was installed on a heavily modified Valjoux 7750 chronograph movement – it was the first perpetual calendar movement on which all complications could be set using only the crown. This year, as well as returning to the round case with articulated lugs design of the 1980s, IWC has released a faithful tribute to the iconic ref. 3750 – the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph – which, in another first for the manufacturer, combines the chronograph hours and minutes counters, and a moon-phase complication on a single subdial at 12 o’clock. To achieve this, the engineers at…
Ming is the latest player in the hectic world of horological start-ups. But before we get down to the nitty gritty of the Ming 17.01, it’s worth giving you a quick rundown on the backstory behind Ming Watches. Hailing from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, Ming was formed as a collective horological endeavour by a group of six watch enthusiasts and collectors, with the head of the pack being Ming Thein, a photographer, designer and collector with a penchant for anything and everything to do with watches. Now I know what you must be thinking: ‘Hold on, wait a minute. A watch collector creating his own timepiece? That’s quite the leap (and investment).’ But it makes perfect sense. Who better to make a watch than someone who is super into watches and the industry around them? This love means you’ll end up with a watch that reflects that passion. Exciting to think about, and riveting to talk about. So, let’s take a look at their initial release, the Ming 17.01 First and foremost, this is a very deliberate and carefully constructed watch. What it lacks in big name pedigree is amply offset by the modern, avant-garde look. The 38mm titanium case looks exceptional thanks to the outwardly sloped bezel, flared lugs and…
Editor’s Note: Seiko’s re-released ‘Turtle’ is rapidly becoming an essential in any self-respecting watch collector’s roll. And given the winning combination of heritage and quality at a supremely wallet-friendly price, we can see why. Seiko dive watches have a massive – at times fanatical – following. It’s these guys and gals who are responsible for giving the brand’s cryptically coded watches their colourful nicknames – the Tuna, Monster, Sumo and, in this case, the Turtle. Officially, the Turtles we’re looking at here are known as SRP775 (black gilt dial on bracelet), SRP773 (blue dial on bracelet) and SRP777 (black dial on silicone). From now on, collectively, we’ll just call them Turtles. But wait, there’s more. These SRP77 divers are actually reissues of the original Turtles – historic divers from the 6309 family, produced from 1976 until 1988. Not only is this new version a faithful homage to the original, it also represents nigh-on-unbeatable value for money. The case It was the broad, cushion-shaped case that inspired the watch’s nickname, because if you look at it from a distance and squint a little it resembles the shell of a turtle. Of course, the broad sides have a functional purpose as well, the ample flanks serving to…