HANDS-ON: Undeniably impressive – the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang 45mm Sapphire
The Spirit Of Big Bang is one of my favourite lines from Hublot. Partially that’s down to my occasionally contrarian nature wanting to stand out from the regular Big Bang herd, but mostly it’s because I find the large and in charge tonneau case shape is a perfect complement to the brand’s Art of Fusion philosophy. I’ve worn the 45mm King Gold Spirit, and the smaller 43mm titanium moonphase version and enjoyed them both immensely. They’re imposing-yet-fun on the wrist, and this all sapphire version takes the concept to the next level. This is a Statement watch with a capital S (and perhaps capitalised a-t-e-m-e-n-t as well) and it takes a certain confidence to pull off. A level of confidence that to be honest, I’m not sure I possess. Then again, I suspect wearing this would function as a pretty effective confidence booster in its own right. It’s not just the seemingly impossible sapphire case that makes this such an impressive watch — it’s the case material combined with the shape and size. Tonneau cases are uncommon and hard to get right. Because of this most stick to the sapphire territory of round watches, and Hublot – with its now…
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Oris has developed a bit of a reputation for consistently releasing surprising vintage-inspired pieces. Having said that, their Big Crown 1917 is a little more surprising than most. That’s partly because Oris had no idea the watch that inspired it existed — this little piece of Hölstein history has been sitting in their archives, quietly gathering patina. Happily, someone (who deserves a promotion, just quietly) at Oris noticed it and recognised the potential of their first pilot’s watch, just in time for its 100th anniversary. Not a foot has been put wrong with the Big Crown 1917; all the elements work in harmony and there’s precisely the right blend of idiosyncratic charm and everyday comfort. The 40mm steel case resembles a converted pocket watch, rounded and pebble-like, with a nicely domed sapphire crystal and onion crown. The dial is warmly retro, with a finely grained silver base with old-school railroad chapter ring, and stylised serif Arabics filled with creamy SuperLuminova that neatly matches the blued steel cathedral hands. Purists can also breathe a sigh of relief as there’s no date window to mar the purity of the style. Oris also gets major kudos for that little button at two —…
The big watch news of the week has been the announcement of the unique watches being auctioned off to raise funds for Duchenne muscular dystrophy in the seventh bi-annual instalment of Only Watch. And while everyone’s (rightly) excited about the Patek, F.P. Journe and Tudor unique pieces, we’re pretty sure that they’ll quickly move into the rarefied air of bajillionaire collectors. If you’re interested in trying your luck at scoring a one-of-a-kind piece of horology here are five options that we suspect will hammer in within reach of mere mortals come November 11. Konstantin Chaykin Joker Russian independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin had a breakout Basel this year, thanks largely to his clever and charming Joker, with its clever disc based time display and moon phase tongue. This version has a zirconium case and unique dial. Estimate 10,000 – 15,000 CHF Piaget Black Tie Vintage Watch If we’re honest, we suspect this Piaget will sell above its estimate, but gosh is it stunning. The Black Tie case acts as a perfect golden frame for the Pietersite stone dial, which looks like something straight off the wall of The Getty. Estimate 30,000 – 50,000 CHF Chronoswiss Flying Regulator “Red Passion” Chronoswiss…
It’s a Wind Down for one this week, as I’m currently alone in the office engaging in some fairly serious desk dancing to this sprawlingly awesome mix. But it’s not all fun and games because watches are a Very Serious Business. Just ask the Swiss. Or the Germans or Japanese for that matter. So, have a drink, but make sure it’s a serious one — more Manhattan, less Melbourne Bitter. What happened? Omega announced their latest Bond limited edition, the Commander’s Watch. It’s hard to tell, but the summery feel of this Seamster caused more askance eyebrow-raising than most Omega LEs. Richard Mille announced Margot Robbie as their latest brand ambassador. That is all. What really mattered? Patek wrote a letter to their dealers, telling them to stop letting watches out of their stores in original packaging. That means the brown outer boxes and the sealed plastic bag. Why? Tackling the grey market of course. Will dealers comply? Will it change anything? The lineup for Only Watch 2017 was unveiled and while we’re busy drooling over the Journe, speculating on the Patek, and nodding appreciatively at the WOSTEP watch, I think it’s interesting that wunderkind-auctioneer Aurel Bacs has lost out to…
Earlier this year Bell & Ross released a pair of their trademark square watches that demonstrated quite a different take on their perennial aviation theme. The BR 03-92 Horolum, a slab of grey metal, was inspired by an airport’s tarmac. This version, the BR 03-92 Horograph, takes a similarly pedestrian inspiration — the ubiquitous and useful airport clock. As you can imagine, legibility is the aim of the game here, with stark white printed baton indices and broad stick hands set against a matt black dial. A red-tipped second hand, date at four and a discreet minute track complete the picture. The triangular marker at 12 is a nod to the classic layout of pilot’s watches. The 42mm steel case is bead-blasted, a nice utilitarian finish that well suits the functional feel of the watch. On the wrist, the Horograph wears much like Bell & Ross’ other instrument watches, which is unsurprising given the shared case. It feels quite different from the military-inspired watches B&R are best known for. Its focus is a little less macho and a little more design, which is a nice change up. The Horograph comes on a rubber strap, which is in keeping with the brand’s…
There’s no better way for nascent female watch enthusiasts to dip their toes into luxe waters than scaling the vintage market for a play with men’s models. You can score an utterly original watch, with provenance or history to boot, but with a forgiving price tag. First up, just get scanning the spectrum. With a feel for the models that interest you and when expenditure is more considered, you can start to look at rarity, how watches will hold their value, the history of a house, exemplary workmanship and innovation. My entry into this world was a diminutive Jaeger-LeCoultre ladies cocktail hour piece from the early 60s, but I soon realised I was more than ready to play with cases sizes more commonly reserved for Mad Men-era alpha males. Get your boys club on with these impressive treasures, each with their very own special patina. Omega – De Ville ‘Emerald’ by Andrew Grima A lost Omega line in the true sense, the Emerald was only made from 1971 to 1973 and will appeal to vintage jewellery lovers because of Anglo-Italian Andrew Grima’s hand in its design. Grima, who had earlier designed Omega’s About Time collection in 1970, is a big card…
Editor’s Note: You think you know someone. When Felix had the idea to tell a story about a fictional IWC Portugieser wearer through the visual medium of a comic book strip I was intrigued. He worked with illustrator William Webb to bring a vignette to life entirely of his own imagination – a guy living the dream facing an event most of us would quickly want to wake up from. I was impressed at his hidden talents. It’s short, sharp and purely for fun. Enjoy! If you want a closer look at the art, it’s in three parts here, here and here. 
Editor’s Note: Initially released in 2014, the Seamaster 300 was a near perfect combination of heritage and technique. Four years on and still going strong — I’d say it’s holding its own as one of the best dive watches in its price point on the market. The story in a second The Omega Seamaster 300 Master Co-Axial was one of the best watches of 2014, combining the brand’s rich history with their impressive Master Co-Axial movement. The big question Does Omega finally have a dive watch that can challenge the supremacy of the Rolex Submariner? Last year Omega answered the prayers of their most fervent fans, re-releasing the Seamaster 300, a beloved vintage model, and one of the all-time great dive watches. The Seamaster 300 hasn’t been seen in catalogues for the last 45 years, and it was past due for a comeback. And not only because the watch industry can’t get enough of heritage reissues at the moment. The time is right for the Seamaster 300 – it has the combination of looks, legacy and technical prowess to rival the mighty Rolex Submariner. For the first version of the new Seamaster 300 Omega smartly decided against cherry-picking the best…
Editor’s Note: Last week I shared an opinion piece on why I’m not so into vintage watches these days, so today we’re seeing what the other side of the coin looks like, courtesy of avowed vintage lover, Julian Sack, who has very few ‘new’ watches in his roll. Take it away, Julian! I’m a watch collector. I didn’t know it when my father gave me an IWC after my graduation, but in the years and decades since, I’ve realised that collecting vintage watches is a part of who I am. I’ve come to love the stories and history that live in old watches, as well as the challenge of finding the perfect example. The thrill of the chase I don’t mean to disparage people who buy new, but I find little joy in walking into a shop, throwing down a piece of plastic and walking out with a watch. For me, it’s all about the journey. When I started collecting, the only information I could obtain about a watch was a picture – and by this I mean a Kodak, not a .jpeg – sent in the post. I had to make a decision based on that single, flimsy piece of information.…
Are you under sartorial pressure in your nine to five? Feel the need to up your office attire? Well, we can’t help you with suits and shoes, but wrists? We’ve got you covered. We’ve found four perfect daily wearers that will dazzle your peers, no matter how dull your PowerPoint is. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Over the decades the Datejust has become the definitive everyday casual option, and with its combination of refinement and rugged construction, it’s easy to see why. The Datejust 41, just released in steel, brings the classic up to a modern size and adds a next-generation movement to the mix. $9300 Oris Divers Sixty-Five I know what you’re thinking — a dive watch as an everyday dress piece? Madness, right? Hear us out. Oris’ heritage diver is far from chunky, and in this silver dial with a suede strap it’s far more elegant than action. $2800 Nomos Metro neomatik champagner If you’re an architect or an interior designer you probably already know Nomos. If you don’t, you might just be in the wrong job. If your idea of a work uniform involves more black skivvies and spectacles than your typical office, the Metro could be…