MY 6 MONTHS WITH: The Tudor Pelagos LHD
Late last year I celebrated a milestone birthday, turning the big three-zero. After coming to terms with the death of my twenties and realising that the big moments in life should be celebrated not mourned, I decided the occasion needed to be marked with a new watch. Thankfully my wife agreed, so a budget was set and the search was on: I began the task of shortlisting contenders. The top pick changed more times than I feel comfortable admitting, but finally, one watch prevailed: the practical and modern Tudor Pelagos. The only thing left to decide was the dial colour. The easily wearable black dial? Or the vibrant blue? Then, to throw a spanner in the works, the week I was ready to walk into the local dealer and make my pick with the toss of a coin, Tudor surprised us all with the release of the southpaw-approved Pelagos LHD. Call it luck … call it fate … call it whatever you want, but as soon as I laid eyes on the LHD, the choice was clear, and after a couple of phone calls, one was on its way to me. My first impression was … flabbergasted! In the best possible…
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TAG Heuer has pulled off a minor miracle with the Link. They’ve taken one of their most recognisable designs, one synonymous with the ‘90s, and made it relevant in 2017. They’ve achieved this by focusing on the most important part of the watch – the bracelet. Link actually began life as a bracelet back in 1987, and the intertwining ’s’ shape links are instantly recognisable. TAG Heuer has made the smart move of toning down the sportiness. This Link is dressy, with a well-sized 41mm cushion-shaped case, and brings the model firmly into the realm of dressy sports. It’s a wonderful watch on the wrist, a playful combination of light and shadow that’s beguiling. And while it’s likely that we’ll start seeing complications of the Link down the track, for now it’s only available as a simple three-handed piece. This version is priced at $3700. 
Editor’s Note: This year Hublot released several golden new Meca-10s, and we were surprised at just how different they looked to the original. Before we go into depth on those, we thought we’d take a second look at the OG version, a watch that is, in my humble opinion, one of the best evolutions of Hublot’s Big Bang in some years. The story in a second New movement + new look = new ball game? Hublot describe their Meccano-inspired Big Bang Meca-10 as a ‘transitional object’. It’s an interesting choice of phrase. You could take it literally and assume that Hublot are referring to the watch as a way for people who obsessed about Meccano and technical constructions when they were younger to move into some more grown up gadgets. Or you could interpret that it’s talking about a transitional object for Hublot the brand, and their design language. We are erring on the side of the latter. You see, we think the Big Bang Meca-10 is quite an important watch. With a deep new movement (that isn’t a chronograph) and a look that somehow seems even more confident and assured, we can’t help but wonder if this the start of the next chapter…
Being in the watch writing line of work it’s no great surprise that friends and acquaintances often ask me for watch-buying advice. Call it an occupational hazard, call it a compliment that they should consider my advice worth seeking but (unlike a doctor friend, who gets irritated by being asked for free clinical advice at dinner parties) I never tire of talking about watches. But something has changed: as watch auction prices have gone relentlessly up over the past few years (not to mention the retail prices of many brands), the two questions I’m most often asked are: “I’m tossing up between an X and a Y [pick any two modern watch brands]. Which one is going to hold its value better?” And: “I’d like to buy vintage and I can’t afford a Daytona or a Patek, so which other brands would make the best investment?” (To clarify: these are people with around $10,000 to $30,000 to spend. Not $100,000 plus – that’s a different planet.) Those two questions are essentially the same one in different clothes – and my answer to both is: “Stop. You’re asking the wrong question.” Not because I don’t have a crystal ball (I don’t)…
There are few things more frustrating than seeing pictures of an incredible watch, reading the news and reviews of just how great it is, only to discover that it won’t be hitting actual stores for months. It’s a very specific feeling (in fact there’s probably a word for it in German, uhrenverbotenangst or some such), and one we can relate to. Well, today we’re hoping to ease that pain just a little with five watches you can buy right now. And what’s more, they’re all under $5k. You’re welcome. Tudor Black Bay S&G It’s gold, it’s steel, it’s David Beckham’s choice. What more do you need to know? $4540 on leather Baume & Mercier Clifton Club Looks good, can handle everything you’d reasonably throw at it, comes on a neat strap. $2750 Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 Sick of having to take your watch off to look at the movement? Raymond Weil has got your back. $2950 Montblanc Summit Tempted to get into the smart game, but want something with a little more panache than Apple? Meet the Summit. From $1330 Rado Centrix Open Heart Got something against watch dials, and a penchant for avant-garde watch design? Try this Rado…
So far this week we’ve looked at the larger 45mm Captain Cook and the smaller vintage versions. To round out the trifecta, we’re taking this bright and beach-ready number for a spin. Now, this isn’t your typical ‘on the wrist’ review, as the mesh bracelet is intended for wrists smaller (and less hairy) than my one. But you can still see how the all-white colour scheme really makes this design pop, especially when helped out by the diamond hour markers and the field of reflections that is the Milanese-style bracelet. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm (white) Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm on mesh, $3100
Would you believe I’m winding down alone, in a Sydney hotel room, looking out over an exceptionally dreary parking lot? It would be sad if not for the fact that in a few short hours I’m going to be hanging with some of Australia’s finest watch nerds and some of Switzerland’s finest watches at a catch-up at The Hourglass. So don’t feel too sorry for me. This is also why it’s a shorter wind down than usual – I’ve got to make myself look pretty. What happened Citizen released a tourbillon. Yep, you read that right. And what’s even crazier is how nice it looks. The 42mm white gold number has a rough price of $90K USD. Citizen now owns quite an impressive portfolio of brands, so maybe they’re moving up the horological ladder? What really mattered I’ve been banging on for years about how two-tone watches are due for a comeback, and I feel pretty comfortable calling 2017 as the year the return happened. And no, it’s not just because every other brand is leading with a gold and steel stunner, or because Becks is sporting a brand new look. It’s because no lesser institute than The New York Times…
When I hear the words Bell & Ross, I immediately picture square watches inspired by flight instruments – watches like the iconic BR01 or its smaller cousin, the BR03. And I’m sure I’m not alone. There is, however, another side to the Bell & Ross family. With classic looks and traditional round cases, the Vintage collection draws its inspiration from the history of aviation. Designed to meet military specifications set by the armed forces, this collection has legibility, functionality and precision high on the list of “must haves”. Given these requirements, it’s not completely unexpected that this, the latest vintage-inspired chronograph, bears a resemblance to other brands’ versions of flight spec’d chronographs. Having said that, the DNA of the Vintage BR V2-94 is still very much Bell & Ross (even without the square case). The dial draws parallels to their Instruments collection, with large white numerals on a black background and distinctive sword hands, which are slightly slimmer on the Vintage Chronograph. The counterweight of the central seconds hand is stylised as a silhouette of a plane, a new feature that Bell & Ross says will be found on many future releases. Underneath the dial beats the BR-Cal.301 automatic chronograph…
Editor’s Note: In the hurly burly hustle of endless new releases it’s sometimes important to sit back in a Chesterfield or similar with an overfull glass of burgundy and let it all sink in. Rinse, repeat. What floats to the top of mind? What watch still hits you in the lungs like a chest mark when you see it? What never-seen-before technical advancement of this or that still tickles the brain and creates a tingling sensation in the wallet pocket region? Lastly, whose value is holding up on Chrono 24? Fire up the Bentley Jeeves, we’re heading back to Germany again… Put a group of serious watch collectors in a room and ask them to name the most important modern chronograph in the world right now, and we’re confident the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph will end up top of the heap. A large part of the Datograph’s appeal is the movement, which surpasses mere functional engineering and moves into the realm of sculptural beauty. But it’s not just the watch’s technical and aesthetic virtuosity that’s earned it such universal acclaim – it’s the context it emerged from. As you may know, A. Lange & Söhne is a brand with old roots in eastern…
We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal – I know I had to try the bracelet on for it to win me over. Finally, in case you’re wondering, I’ve got a fairly large wrist, around 20–21cm – or a touch over 8 inches if imperial is your jam.