VIDEO: Sex, watches and complications with Kristian Haagen
Watch fairs are not just about watches. They’re as much about meeting, getting to know and catching up with the people that drive the industry, both from a brand and fellow media side. This time last year, we sat down with photographer, publisher and raconteur Kristian Haagen to firstly shake hands, and then to talk about whatever came up – right in the midst of the SIHH action. It was pretty free-ranging in retrospect. We touched on Lange, scratching your lover’s back with a Patek and the future of watches. Looking forward to seeing what’s on Kristian’s mind this year!
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Tune in to any period drama and at some point there’ll be a plot line where two eligible young bachelors vie for the attentions of a damsel; a situation which typically ends in fisticuffs, name-calling (“You blasted cad!”) and the woman not having a say in anything. Happily, our version of events – in which the original Chanel Boy.Friend is pitted against the new kid on the block, the Chanel Boy.Friend Tweed – takes place in far more enlightened times. Our lady of the manor gets to choose however she likes. One. Both. Neither. That’s the way it works, folks. And, with that lesson in healthy relationships crystal clear in everyone’s minds, let the battle commence. The original The Boy.Friend first showed up in mid-2015, offering a feminine twist on masculine style – something Coco famously loved to play with in her designs back in the day. Then there’s the octagonal shape of the case, which is another link to the brand’s heritage – a very sweet nod to the iconic art deco bottle that houses Chanel No.5. The original collection comes in three sizes, on a variety of materials and straps: steel, gold, satin, alligator – with and without…
On Monday morning, the most unpronounceable fair of them all, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie – mercifully reduced 100 per cent of the time to ‘SIHH’ – will open its doors in Geneva. But you don’t need to wait until then to get the lowdown on the major scoops and scandals. Thanks to our never-fail combination of crystal ball + global network of industry insiders, informants and assorted street urchins we’ve compiled seven of the most jaw-dropping rumours doing the rounds in the days before SIHH 2017.* Read on… if you dare. Panerai and H. Moser & Cie join forces to create the Luminor ‘Toastie’ In a surprising spirit of collaboration, Panerai has worked with H. Moser & Cie. to create the PAM 00123456 – a Luminor 1950-cased watch featuring a distinctive sandwich dial crafted from carbon-infused bread that’s been flame-treated to give it a distinctive ‘toast’ patina. Embedded between these two ‘slices’ is a fine layer of Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese (offcuts from Moser’s Swiss Mad watch) that’s been slightly melted to create a particularly tasty look. Greubel Forsey to meet market demands with new quartz watch In a telling sign of the rapidly changing global market, high-end wunderkinds Greubel Forsey are slated…
Welcome to the first Wind Down of 2017! And, as much as the last posts of 2016 were all about looking back at the year that was, this one sees us gazing into the future, attempting to part the fog and get a clearer picture of what the year ahead holds. To be honest though, our view will be far clearer by next week, as much of the team is jetting off to SIHH tomorrow, where we’ll quickly get a much better sense of where the wider industry is at. Consider that fair warning: there will be a veritable barrage of new models hitting your feeds next week. We suggest pouring yourself some of the hard stuff to be amply prepared. What happened? Before we get down to the Wind Down’s more serious prognostications, do yourself a favour and watch this video for 2:28. And we don’t mean that in a must-watch internet hyperbole sense. Actually watch it. It’s the latest promo video from H. Moser & Cie who, a few years back, rickrolled everyone in spectacular fashion with their Swiss smart watch. Well, they’re back, this time tilting at the windmill of ‘Swiss Made’ as well as managing to make some surprisingly hilarious jabs…
At this stage in the game, bronze watches aren’t anything new; Panerai, Oris and Tudor have all played a role in pushing the patina-friendly metal mainstream. But until now, bronze has been the playground of tool-like dive watches, serious timepieces licked by salt and spray until a fine verdigris of adventure forms on the rugged case. Well, the latest wonder from Montblanc’s Villeret collection is set to challenge our perceptions of what this ancient metal means to watches. Far from a rough-and-ready diver, the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter is a superbly refined monopusher chronograph, dripping in old-world charm, replete with historic logo, cathedral-style hands and a dial layout that wouldn’t look out of place on the wrist of a silk-scarf-and-shearling-wearing aviator. The bronze case amplifies all of these details, bathing the whole ensemble in a warm golden glow. The harmony between the case and the champagne dial is particularly pleasing. And while the use of bronze to evoke history isn’t new, Montblanc has smartly avoided concocting a contrived marketing narrative linking this frankly trendy material to some sort of nautical origin story. They’ve simply created a very handsome heritage piece, and clad it in a metal that – visually and culturally…
Cartier never fail to deliver the goods when it comes to their SIHH collection – historically offering a large range of new goodies with everything from consumer-friendly steel all the way up to fabulous, one-of-a-kind jewelled masterpieces. And while we’ll have to wait a few more days to see what’s in store for 2017, this early release already has us intrigued. This limited edition of 30 uses the Ronde Louis Cartier XL as a starting point – a very traditional white gold canvas, framed prettily with a bezel of baguette-cut diamonds. But it’s the dial where the magic happens. Cartier has a strong interest in artistic crafts – or Métiers d’Arts if you prefer – and has invested in a sizeable facility dedicated to fostering these niche skills. This year they’re showing off a brand-new technique called flamed gold, inspired by the traditional manual heating of hands (and screws) to a rich blue, a technique originally developed to harden these key components. Cartier’s artists have taken this originally utilitarian skill to a whole new place, giving life to a multi-coloured panther by applying heat to the solid gold dial. Greater temperature results in a deeper blue, so the first step…
Today we’re taking another look at a video that explores the connection between tattooing and watchmaking with world-famous ink-master Benjamin Laukis. The watch in focus here is his TAG Heuer Calibre 18 Telemeter. Other watches in Ben’s enviable stable include an A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk and a Tiffany dialled Patek Philippe Calatrava. The man knows his watches. “Tattoos are something I spend a lot of time creating with my hands. I can relate to the hours and the effort put in to such a nice piece. The manufacture of the watch is a big part of why I like them.” “People that work in anything handmade are drawn to other things that are handmade and created by a person, not a production line. Watches are incredible, the process behind them is just insane.” “Watchmaking has been around for so long, it’s a time honoured tradition. That’s why vintage is coming back. It’s not going away. They can’t make it any better.” 
*UPDATE, 7AM AEST – ALL 2012 ‘SPEEDY TUESDAY’ MODELS HAVE BEEN ‘TEMPORARILY ALLOCATED’. THE WEBSITE ADVISES THAT YOU PLEASE TRY (OR CRY) AGAIN LATER* Hashtag us #surprised because Omega, the brand that only just recently added prices to their site (!), has well and truly embraced the digital world, this evening – right this minute in fact – announcing three groundbreaking firsts for the brand. Before we begin, let us ask you a question. Have you ever tagged a watch on #speedytuesday ? If so, pat yourself on the back. You made this happen. Surprise #1: The “Speedy Tuesday” (yes, inspired by #speedytuesday on Instagram which was created five years ago by Fratello watches founder Robert-Jan Broer) limited edition will be sold exclusively online. Wait, what? Yes. No need to worry about missing your place in the dealer-controlled queue. If you’re online, you’re in with a chance. Missed out on a Snoopy? This one is all you. Why is Omega doing an online-community inspired LE? The official press release explains: “#SpeedyTuesday…has been steadily growing around the world with Speedmaster pictures and comments being shared every week. In tribute to these chronograph devotees, Omega is proud to introduce the new model that blends some of…
While we mortals take our time recovering from NYE, happy to simply roll our eyes at returning to work in clothes that are a little more snug than before all the mince pies, our thoughts should go out to the poor celebs. There’s no waddling around in stretchy pants for them, while finishing off the last few Ferrero Rocher. Instead, this is the time of year when they need to look as sleek and velvety as glistening otters, as awards season kicks off with the 74th Golden Globes, which took place just hours ago in Beverly Hills. It’s a circus of the highest order, full of drama, disappointment, outrageous wardrobe choices and speeches spiked with champagne-fuelled politics. But for nerds like us, it’s a simpler world. We can turn a blind eye all that, and view the spectacle in its purest form: as a prime opportunity for watchspotting. If you want to know who won Best Original Score, you’ve come to the wrong place. But here are the finalists for Most Creative Timepiece in a Red Carpet Scenario. Joel Edgerton We Australians love to see one of our own representing the land Down Under in Hollywood, and for our international readers who might not understand this village-like level of…