ADVENT CALENDAR 2016: December 12 – The Bulgari Octo Ultra Nero
Much like Elf, the unofficial best Christmas movie of all time, the Octo has a cult following – though to be honest, that’s where the similarities begin and end. Still, we reckon this status is only going to grow stronger with the release of the blacked-out Ultra Nero. This striking piece commands attention from the wrist, with its matt black finishing and subtle rose gold highlights on the indices, numerals, hands and crown. Who should you buy this for? That confident person in your life who’s most comfortable standing out from the pack. What’s the damage? Under 10k Bulgari Octo Ultra Nero Australian Pricing Bulgari Octo Ultra Nero, $9950
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As the days tick by and SIHH 2017 looms, the pre-releases are coming thick and fast. One of the brands that never fails to surprise (hey Carbotech) and delight (hey Firenze) us is Panerai, and this year it looks like they’re keeping to form with two new takes on the classic Radiomir case. Inspired by historic models from the ’30s, the most distinctive feature of these 47mm steel models is the twelve-sided bezel holding the plexiglass crystal (a nice vintage feature in and of itself) in place. This bezel, which bears more than a passing resemblance to Panerai’s typical casebacks, is engraved with ‘Officine Panerai – Brevettato’, which refers to the patented luminous material used by the brand back in the day. The first of these two models, PAM00685, comes with a standard black sandwich-style dial. The second is a little more special, its gradated brown dial mimicking the tropical, radium-faded look of highly-prized vintage models. It looks great in the photography we’ve seen and we can’t wait to witness it IRL in January. Both watches are powered by Panerai’s P.3000 calibre, with three days’ power reserve, and come on an untreated brown leather strap with contrasting stitching. Panerai Radiomir 3 Days Acciaio (PAM…
The Orbis Terrarum is a classic worldtime complication, with an outer dial dominated by an inner ring of key global cities and an outer ring displaying 24-hour time. While it looks complicated it’s surprisingly intuitive, and all the more bold in the 4810 case, as opposed to the svelte Heritage Spirit model that we explored mid-way through last year. Who should you buy this for? A watch lover who’s ready to graduate to mid-level complications, without necessarily wanting the price tag that usually comes with it. What’s the damage? Under 10k Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarium Australian Pricing Montblanc 4810 Orbis Terrarium, $9160
On the 10th day of Christmas, my true love gave to me… the new Cartier model that caught a lot of people’s attention this year in watches. The Drive manages to be both masculine and refined, deviating from the Cartier single shape theory that usually has you choose between square (Santos), round (Ballon Bleu) and tonneau (Roadster and Tortue), to name a few. It’s very faintly retro, too, but combines a cut-through cushion case with the usual impeccable Cartier finishing on the dial. Who should you buy this for? The extraordinary gentleman in your life, or for yourself if you’re in the market for a dress watch par excellence. What’s the damage? Under 9k Cartier Drive de Cartier Australian pricing Cartier Drive de Cartier, steel $8750
On Thursday night HYT Watches announced their return to Australia in fine style, with the largest assembly of HYT watches in one place in the country ever, a setting of a 100ft Sunseeker boat that honoured the tagline of ‘Luxury Fluidics’ and a natural stage that recalled Blake’s sublime, with purple blasts of sheet and fork lightning illuminating Sydney Harbour. It all seemed fitting in a way. Minutes before the electrical storm that guests were all too flush from Mumm Champagne to care about, CEO Grégory Dourde had explained the ‘dynamo’ system in the HYT H4 (first introduced in the H4 Alinghi Special Edition watch) that converts mechanical power into light to allow the wearer to read time, even in low-light conditions. The effect of pressing the pusher and seeing two LEDs illuminate the bellows is underwhelming in daylight. But do it in the dark… The neon green fluid in the capillary illuminates, emitting a light of its own. Electricity flashing in and out of the boat to dramatic effect. But before we get too deep into the detail of these very different watches, here’s HYT’s 30-second crash course on how the hybrid fluid-mechanical watches work: “There are two flexible reservoirs…
In the flurry of pre-holiday/SIHH business, we managed to find time for a lightning trip to Sydney, to catch up with HYT CEO Gregory Dourde and see these incredible watches in the metal. And when we say lightning we mean it literally. As far as impressive events go, spending an evening on the 30m yacht Colette, surrounded by a spectacular lightning storm is hard to top – though the hydromechanical creations of Dourde and his team certainly gave mother nature a run for money. What happened We’re not the only people running an online Advent series. Nomos have been running one for the past few years, each day giving away an insight into the company along with the chance to win beautifully designed Nomos stocking stuffers. What really mattered To be perfectly frank, 2016 has been pretty rubbish, with an ever growing roll call of heroes, icons and celebrities passing away. The lastest casuality is pioneering astronaut John Glenn, who passed away aged 95. Glenn was the first American to orbit the earth, in 1962. Of course NASA’s space program is synonymous with the Omega Speedmaster, but Glenn’s Mercury-Atlas 6 mission happened before the Moonwatch became standard issue. So it was that…
You don’t often see pics of Santa in the desert. But if you did, and if he’d put an appropriate amount of thought into his watch choice, you’d see either an IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII Top Gun Miramar or this Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type on his wrist. Both have that sandy, stealthy colouring that play very nicely with linen and light-coloured summer clothing. Who should you buy this for? That special someone who is masculine and bold, but who also thinks about how an outfit comes together. The Desert Type unlocks some very exciting wardrobe possibilities. What’s the damage? Just over 8k. Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type Australian pricing Bell & Ross BR 03-94 Chronograph Desert Type, $8300
A heavenly trio descended from the skies to T+T’s Sydney outpost this week, sparkling like little angels escaped from the tops of nearby Christmas trees. Translation: we’ve got three awesomely white watches to show you. But while they clearly share the same colour and a healthy love of ceramic, beyond that they couldn’t be more different. Here’s how we managed to work them seamlessly into just one day in Sydney, and everything that throws at you. NB: before our readers in colder climes go off and sulk, we’d like to point out that although these three white watches are perfect against a tan, they’d also work nicely as part of a ‘winter wonderland’ wardrobe, with a snuggly cable-knit sweater and a mug of mulled wine. So that’s enough of the pout. Angel 1: The Omega There’s officially no better way to start the day than with a dunk in the ocean. It gets you in touch with nature in all its ferocious glory and clears the cobwebs ready for maximum productivity later on. Of course, the powerful surf down at Bronte Beach (far cooler than Bondi, obvs) is no place for a watch of the faint-hearted variety. Far more sensible to go with…
In addition to both festive and jolly, ’tis also the season for SIHH pre-releases. Today’s contribution comes courtesy of IWC, who appear to be following up their Portugieser and Pilot years with a Da Vinci-focused line-up – which is what makes the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Sharks’ even more intriguing. The clue is in the name, but it’s the hammerhead sharks on the caseback that seal the deal. This monochrome take on the Aquatimer (we genuinely thought the picture was black and white when we first saw it) takes for its inspiration the cool grey colour of these apex predators. IWC has partnered with Hollywood-turned-underwater photographer Michael Muller on this watch, each one coming with a book chronicling his years of experience capturing this dangerous fish. IWC inform us (perhaps with the merest whiff of wry humour) that the book is “presented in a striking iron cage, guaranteed to protect against shark bites.” The watch receives no such protection, but given its 44mm steel sturdiness, we’re not sure it needs it. IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Sharks’ Australian pricing The IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Sharks’, limited to 500 pieces, $16,000
How’s your Christmas shopping going, folks? Whaddaya mean you haven’t started yet? Chop chop. Unless you’re waiting for inspiration to hit, in which case, maybe this is it. Because talk about causing a stir. The new Rolex Air-King has had people talking ever since it raised its first gasp at Baselworld earlier this year. Why not unleash one on an unsuspecting family member, and watch the debate heat up again over mince pies and sherry. Who should you buy this for? With a lot more heft than ever before, at 40mm, this one definitely needs to go to someone with a big enough stocking. What’s the damage? Under 8k Rolex Oyster Perpetual Air-King Australian pricing Rolex Oyster Perpetual, reference 116900, $7850