11 DAYS OF LONDONERS: Day 4 – David Silver, Director of the Vintage Watch Company
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series ‘11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. Lastly, you might ask, why 11 days? That, friends, will become clearer over time … In the past decade, the hype around vintage watches has escalated to a point of no return. For all the woke vibes floating around the watch industry in 2020 and on people’s wrists, it’s great that the value of relic pieces has never been higher. One man knows this only too well, Mr David Silver of the Vintage Watch Company. The story behind the watch I’m wearing today I’m wearing my 1966 Vintage Rolex GMT-Master with Pepsi bezel. This watch features in the opening pages of my new book, Vintage Rolex: The Largest Collection in the World. I love to wear it on all variety of different skin straps which I have made in Italy. Each time I change the strap I feel like I’m wearing a new watch and get…
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Editor’s note: This story is useful for two reasons. First, it dispels any idea that we are not suffering through the Rolex drought like you all are. If there is a notion that we – as media – have access to the brand that has practically vanished from its own boutiques, and rocketed in price at second-hand and grey dealers, it can be retired. Matt, our Operations Manager, is just like you. He wanted a Sub. He wanted an Explorer. They were not available in Australia for what he considered to be reasonable premiums over retail. So he went hunting. He recounts every step here. Matt’s success, and two glittering trophies, led to an email to me. “Can we contact Bob’s Watches to discuss working together?” The spoiler alert is simply that he’s had two great experiences with them, and will – according to Matt – have many more. An email turned into a Zoom call with the Bob’s Watches team, then another. And now, the story is useful for a second reason. It is our first in partnership with Bob’s Watches, and it provides a tried-and-tested option for those wanting to buy Rolex for a reasonable price, but feeling stymied by the current scarcity issue.…
The definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 with its smoked-grey dial manages to be all of those things and more. The dial Although fumé dials are rising in popularity, this one is definitely a showstopper. The balance between the darker charcoal tones and the lighter wispy-cloud grey in the centre offers a perfect blend for the steel sword-hands, indices, and white printed details to pop with legibility without becoming garishly visible. The crosshair and Arabic numerals surrounding the minute track, along with the “5 Days – Chronometer” text, add a level of sophisticated detail that sets it apart from other dressy, everyday watches. The black-backed date wheel also doesn’t draw too much attention, with its slightly rounded window not being overcomplicated by a shiny frame. The case The Clifton Baumatic case is a masterclass in considered taste. Its bubble-like shape allows its 40mm width to be mostly occupied by the…
Bamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so that it’s included in a list of Nautilus alternatives here. But now, BAM! FORD! (sorry), the lead purveyor of custom chic in collaboration with some of the biggest players of 2020, has dropped a white-hot ceramic version of the GP classic, the Laureato Ghost. To make up a killer two-watch collection, I’d pair it with the gloss-black onyx dial version we covered here. Perhaps the perfect ebony and ivory pairing. At the same time, Hypebeast has given us the perfect new white leather kicks from Nike in matching ice-cool white and black shades with a tough rollercoaster buckle on a soft black leather strap. What at first seem like small details, transform the Timeless Nike Air into a fighting-fresh urban contender for 2020. Combining forces, we’re looking at some true monochromatic magic from Bamford and Nike. Crisp is the word in this 1017 ALYX SM…
If there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price tag in steel. Since its launch, however, the Royal Oak has taken the watch-collecting world by storm – with celebrities from The Rock to Jay-Z opting to sport the coveted timepiece. It has also undergone many evolutions; its technology endlessly upgraded with new complications and case compositions. This week the collection welcomes another novel entry in the form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic. The black ceramic case is a modern 41mm in diameter, and manages to retain the exquisite hand-finished externals seen on the metallic models within the catalogue. To achieve AP’s standard of finishing on a ceramic canvas is no easy feat, but the hallowed manufacturer was more than up for the challenge. The bezel, bracelet and case maintain the rich satin brush the Royal Oak is known for, as well as the hints of high polish…
As 2020 draws to a close, so does the first year of the existence of the Time+Tide Club, which means, joy of joys, it’s time to unveil our 2021 Club Strap! Look at this beautiful thing, another winner from Erika’s Originals, and this time in a refreshing shade of baby blue. The two-line design of an Erika’s Original strap remains exclusive to the Time+Tide Club. Always get a kick writing that, thanks Erika! Renew your club membership right now, right here. In addition, Club members who renew for an annual fee of $129 AUD / $95 USD will also be the first to receive Issue #3 of NOW Magazine, which has some high-quality feature-length journalism by the team on subjects such as ‘Why Rolex is Out of Reach’, as well as interviews with rockstars Carl Cox and Matt Heafy from metal band Trivium, and a spot of myth-busting with none other than Jean-Claude Biver. It’s a thriving mix, rounded out by more than 200 of the best watches of the year, including prices. The magazine drops tomorrow. We’re excited about it! OK, I’m ready to renew, let’s do this. Some FAQs about the club, so you don’t have to ask…
Editor’s note: A few months back, we announced that former Editor of GQ Australia, Mike Christensen, was to be our first European Editor. In this series ’11 Days of Londoners’, Mike will be sharing the stories of a few notable local collectors, starting on Day 1 with King Nerd, and with a stellar lineup still to come. Lastly, you might ask, why 11 days? That, friends, will become clearer over time … David de Rothschild is an adventurer and environmentalist, who has a laundry list of feats to his name. Born into the English banking dynasty, he was a top-ranked horse rider as a child, trekked to both geographical poles before the age of 30, and sailed across the Pacific Ocean on a boat made from recycled plastic bottles only a few years later. He hasn’t slowed down in recent years, though, continuing to work on different environmental conservation projects around the world, aimed at protecting different ecosystems and building awareness about climate change. What’s your watch of choice on any given day, David? I’ve always been drawn to the ocean [understatement — he’s sailed from San Fran to Sydney on a boat made of plastic bottles], so for me it’s Breitling’s Superocean…
An international gang flew into London to carry out a 13-day burglary spree on the homes of the rich and famous that netted them a whopping £26 million. Multiple watches were stolen in the heists, including pieces from Patek Philippe, Rolex, TAG Heuer and Cartier. Prosecutor Timothy Cray QC told the court: “The plan, quite simply, was to steal as much as possible from some fantastic houses in this city of London. The burglaries netted big money – in round figures £26million … mainly in some fabulous jewellery and cold hard cash.” The first house to be burgled was that of Frank and Christine Lampard. Frank is the former England midfielder who’s now manager of Chelsea football club, while his wife Christine is a well-known TV presenter. On December 1, thieves broke into their family home in Chelsea and made off with a booty worth £60,000. The haul included valuables snatched from the master bedroom. Among these were a rose gold Patek Philippe Nautilus, a rose gold ladies Rolex Datejust, a white gold Cartier pocket watch and a pair of white gold Patek Philippe cufflinks. Ten days later the alleged burglars struck again, breaking through the patio window of the…
The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm and associated adventure. While still keeping the same 42mm case size and proportions, the design feels thoroughly refreshed in a way that’s hard to ignore. While the new case material is the main drawcard here, the dial of the Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a feature that immediately grabs your attention. With a gradient effect that emanates from the centre of the dial, the tone shifts from a lush forest green in the middle to near-black around at the circumference. This emphasises the bronze handset, while the black rotating inner bezel acts as a frame for the contrasting green. Longines aren’t trying to revolutionise the dive watch game with this latest release, but they are certainly offering a new and exciting take on a well-loved format. Bronze isn’t a metal that Longines use very often, so we’ll wait in anticipation to see if the warmly…
When the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 10552 ticks a lot of boxes while also bringing their in-house manufacturing nous to the party. You’re buying more than just the brand name here, you’re also getting some serious tech. The case The stainless-steel case of this watch is 42mm in diameter and a slender 13.1mm thick. Like many well-finished cases, it includes harmonious satin and polished finishes – but with a fresh twist. Normally satin dominates the surface area of the case, with hints of polish sparsely rendered throughout. In the case of the 10552, and other creations within the Clifton Baumatic line, you actually get more polished surfaces without deviating from a sporty-elegant aesthetic. All of the top front-facing facets are polished – the bezel, the lugs and their tapered bevelling. The satin aspects are introduced as the case band and the chamfer of the lug tapering. A sharp line…