VIDEO: Our favourite references from the IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection
The momentum IWC generated in 2019 has continued unimpeded this year, with a slightly dressier focus. Here, we’re treated with the reinvigoration of the stoic, masculine, yet classy line in the new IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection. With the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC have stuck with their attitude of evolution over revolution, upgrading all of the regular production models with the new in-house calibre 69355 column-wheel chronograph movement — a visceral treat for the eyes when viewed through the display caseback. Three new sunburst dial variations are captivating, with the steel case offering a mossy-forest green or a rich oxblood red, and an 18k yellow gold case flaunting a classic navy blue. The Portugieser Automatic 40 brings a touch of refined, yet not understated, simplicity in a well-proportioned package. The steel-cased and white-dialled variant is available with either blue or gold hands and markers, while the blue dial’s steel highlights are clean and crisp. Should you want something that suits the dressier side of life, there is also a model in 18k gold. The fun doesn’t stop with the simpler sides of the collection, either, as the highly-complicated Perpetual Calendars and Yacht Club Chronograph models have all made an impact upon their…
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Once again, I am confused, seriously confused. When I’d finally sussed out the language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve. Not entirely new, but even after being out for almost a year it still astounds me when I get my hands on it, and here it delights with a new alluring blue dial. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is different from, well, everything. While legacy brands tweak their tried and tested icons by 1mm, that well-lit safe path is not for Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser. Difference, innovation, and the unlikely term, irony. Here, instead of homage, we have retro futurism. First Impressions The expression curvilinear replaces angular. I must confess I run the risk of repeating my own gushing enthusiasm for the case and bracelet, as I was lucky enough to spend time with the apple green splendour of the latest Streamliner in my story here. Images are one thing, but nothing will prepare you for the sheer ‘otherness’ of the mini-tank-armadillo-like convex (let’s make production extra difficult!) bracelet. This flows into a poetic vision of streamlined form, and turning into an alien Bullhead chronograph, with an added large crown at 4 o’clock.…
I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy dials saturated with colours and the simple elegance of applied indices. The new Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J bring a few welcome design twists, including the ever-evolving dial art of Seiko with a hypnotising pattern. First impressions What strikes you first when trying on these two references is the near perfect case size of 38.5mm, which, with a slim 11.75mm thickness, equates to pure delight. These two come on an elegant Milanese mesh, giving you a much softer feel than a normal bracelet. It drapes around the wrist with a silky metallic touch, while being a great formal alternative to leather in the warmer climes of summer. As both references also come with a leather strap, you have your sartorial choices sorted, with both versions coming with a welcome quick-release for an easy match-up to your outfit and mood of the day. The case Seiko…
This year’s Melbourne Cup is over, but now there’s an exciting new race, with the runners and riders taking horological form. That’s because this Sunday, Phillips is hosting the Hong Kong Watch Auction: XI. There’s a drool-worthy collection of pieces up for grabs, including watches from Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne and many more. But there are also some eyebrow-raising inclusions with lots 813-817 dedicated to Rolex’s new range of Oyster Perpetuals in a veritable sorbet rainbow of colours. These lots stand out, not because of the eye-popping colours, but because of the fact that these stainless-steel pieces are all brand new. Rolex only revealed the collection on September 1. Yet Phillips have already deemed these OPs – which aren’t even limited – to be sufficiently valuable to be worthy of auction. We’ll get onto the broader implications of this for the watch world later. There’s no doubt the bright lacquered dials of this rejigged collection have met with predictably massive demand. The vivid hues felt like a welcome dose of feel-good energy and playful fun – sorely needed after what’s been, let’s face it, a pretty grim year. But which colour will prove to be the most popular?…
Watches and aviation have long been on the same flight path, with multiple timepieces made specifically to take to the skies. Without aviation, for example, we would not have the historic Cartier Santos – named after Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pilot who requested its creation. Known for their larger cases and high degree of legibility, pilot’s watches have attracted many buyers over the years who’ve never ventured anywhere near a cockpit. But whether you’re a budding Top Gun or permanently grounded, these are the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K. Longines Spirit 40mm blue dial on leather strap The Spirit 40 from Longines is like an album where every song is a hit – it just strikes all the right notes. At 40mm, it has a nice modern case size and is water resistant to 100m with a screw-down crown. Underneath the anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal is a highly legible and rich blue dial with a magnificent sunburst gradient texture. While some will always fret over the aesthetic of a date-window, the date disc perfectly matches the blue dial and blends harmoniously with minimal interruption. There’s 64 hours of power reserve, thanks to its reliable movement, upgraded with a silicon…
Too often in a TV drama, a character’s watch is just a random accessory lobbed in by the wardrobe department at the last minute. Yet when it’s done right, a watch can become infused with psychological depth and meaning. And when it’s done to absolute perfection it can deliver a tell-tale insight into a character’s very soul. In Gangs of London – currently screening on Stan in Australia – Sean Wallace’s Rolex Datejust is very much the latter. The British drama is essentially a bare-knuckle version of The Godfather with a cockney accent. Chaos reigns after Finn Wallace, the gangster patriarch of the ruling London clan, is gunned down in cold blood. As rival families jostle for power and struggle to protect their interests, Finn’s eldest son, Sean (Joe Cole, last seen in Peaky Blinders) is thrust into the role of top dog. Unfortunately, he’s not a natural mob boss. While determined to step up, Sean lacks the calculating head and lethal calm of a Michael Corleone. Blinded by his lust for vengeance and desperate to prove himself, he lashes out at any perceived enemies with mind-boggling savagery. The tone of the series is set by the opening scene in…
The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a pitch-perfect, vintage-style diver. Yet somehow it’s failed to get the attention it deserves due, in part, because understatement is the name of its game. While the Rado Captain Cook turns heads with its lush colourways and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five makes noise with its ever-changing iterations, this bronze diver plays things down and allows its impressive looks to slowly take hold of your psyche. By the time you finally notice it, well, it’s already too late. You’re completely under its spell. First impressions If you are intrigued by the charm of bronze, but have been put off by the narrow choice of monstrous tool watches and colourful skin divers, this might be your ticket into the world of patina. The revitalised Longines Legend Diver offers a more formal approach to the vintage diver game, and brings a suited-up vibe to the game, more evocative of marine chronometers than scuba gear and speedboats. The case for bronze Longines have delivered a strong year achieving the balancing act of heritage with modernism better than most. The softly spoken Legend Diver is a superb example of the former. It plays with the early ’60s language of…
The human race has evolved to the point it has, not thanks to strength, or speed, or even intelligence. The human race is where it is because of our ability to collaborate and work together. Any chimpanzee would easily physically overpower a human, but they cannot collaborate with groups of more than 150, while humans can form nation states with millions of strangers and effectively work towards a common goal. In 2020, this need for collaboration has only become more evident as a requirement to succeed in anything, be it vaccine research and development or economic recovery packages. Collaboration is critical in the watch industry, too, with watchmakers across Switzerland producing components for a single timepiece for hundreds of years. This spirit of collaboration has exploded in 2020, with more and more brands working together, and it has produced some of the most interesting and creative watches we’ve seen in a while. We saw Moser and MB&F join forces and this week TAG Heuer announced their latest project with the Bamford Watch Department. Redbar have also painted the town burgundy recently with Rado that we’ll have more information on in the coming days. Next week we are eagerly anticipating another project…
This year, Longines is jumping on board the Black Friday sales and, boy, are there deals to be had. With watches from across their different collections up for grabs, if you’ve been in the market for one of the Saint-Imier brand’s watches for a while and haven’t pulled the trigger, today is the day to scratch that itch. Here are five of our favourites that are available in the Longines Black Friday sale. Longines Heritage Military COSD This watch is special because it was part of the first batch of Heritage models that Longines has since become so renowned for. Released back in 2015, the no-nonsense field watch is a faithful nod to the robust tool watches that Longines has long produced for the armed forces of the world. The blocky 40mm case houses the brand’s own automatic caliber L888, which features a very healthy 64 hours of power reserve. RRP: $2575. Sale price: $1545 Visit Longines right here to check it out. Longines Conquest V.H.P. GMT There aren’t many Swiss watchmakers who take quartz watchmaking seriously – Longines is one of them. Not only are they making very accurate quartz watches, but they are technically innovating with their Flash Setting…
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most celebrated watches of the last half-century, in part because of the countless different versions the brand has released. But in a world where a limited-edition Speedmaster isn’t a new thing anymore, is the watch community still interested in another new release? This watch has put it beyond any doubt. Absolutely, yes, they are. People can’t get enough of the latest Snoopy Speedy, with waitlists stretching around the figurative block as people line up to strap one to their wrist. But what makes the latest Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary so exciting? Let’s take a closer look. Most people will know the Omega Speedmaster was worn by NASA astronauts during the space race in the late 1960s, and even worn on the moon itself. This lunar heritage kickstarted the Speedmaster stampede with thousands of collectors around the world. What is less well known is how the watch saved the lives of astronauts during the near disastrous Apollo 13 mission in 1970. After an oxygen tank exploded, crippling the Service Module, John L. “Jack” Swigert relied upon the Speedmaster’s chronograph function to time a critical 14-second rocket burn that enabled him to…