"So comfortable you'll forget you have it on." An owner reflects on what makes the OG Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight such a winner
Editor’s pick: This story concludes with the author, Yannick Chan, saying “I’m really excited to see where Tudor is headed with the Fifty-Eight line. We will, no doubt, see a blue, burgundy, and *fingers-crossed* a GMT version of the watch in the near future.” One out of three came to pass in 2020, with the Navy version. It’s given rise, of course to lots of comparisons between the OG, this model and the new. We thought it might be useful to hear from a pretty devoted fan. There’s no review like an owner review, after all. Being a Tudor enthusiast (or, for lack of a better word, a bit of a fanboy), the Black Bay Fifty-Eight was the watch that really caught my eye amongst the new releases from Tudor at Baselworld 2018. Yes, like everyone else, I love the look and functionality of the Black Bay GMT, but being more of a vintage watch guy, the size and retro design of the Fifty-Eight really appealed to me. I’ve been dying to get my hands on the watch ever since, and I guess I wasn’t the only one. Just like the GMT, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has been an instant…
The post “So comfortable you’ll forget you have it on.” An owner reflects on what makes the OG Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight such a winner appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
Seiko’s 2020 arsenal of new watches has yet another devastatingly attractive addition in the Seiko Astron SSH073J. In parallel with the mechanical in-house divers and sports watches we can’t seem to get enough of, we find the ultra-precise Astron series, here shown in the dressy darkness of titanium and ceramic. I apologise in advance for more Star Wars references, but they are too tempting. With this on Mr Vader’s wrist, the Death Star would always be on time, as the Astron accuracy is legendary. We sing the praises of Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive and Quartz models with their beguiling mix of craftsmanship and mechanical excellence, but this is something else. The Astron series, with their tough, high-tech focus, does not get the column space they deserve, as they are damn impressive at what they do. This year is the 160th anniversary of Kintaro Hattori, the founder of Seiko, and they have chosen to mark this with a limited edition of their laser-sharp solar-powered GPS watch, the Astron SSH073J. And when we say devastatingly handsome, we mean it. It’s hard to think of a cleaner execution of the Astron, and the colour scheme? A symphony of black and gold in a…
Editor’s note: As we discussed here and in Part 1 of this article, watch lug to lug is an oft misunderstood element in finding the perfect fitting watch to your wrist. Here’s why. Ressence Type 1 Slim (42mm x 46mm) While some Ressence Type references push upwards of 52mm lug to lug, if you are looking for one of their more compact offerings, the Type 1 Slim is your best bet. At 46mm in lug to lug measurement, the 42mm case wears very well on the wrist. Its wire lugs taper the strap downward, creating an absence of unnecessary fixed length. This Ressence watch is a great example of why you need to pay attention to lug profile as much as case profile. Larger diameters do not necessarily mean a larger watch. The front of the watch is all dial, with no bezel to take up dial diameter. This creates the illusion of a much larger watch, but it is in fact just that: an illusion. RRP: $20,600 USD/approximately $28,710 AUD Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic (40mm x 46mm) Starting to think 46mm is the perfect vertical length of a watch? Then the Bulgari Octo Finissimo is another watch that should…
Editor’s note: As I go to post this review, something very sad just dawned on me. It’s been over three years since I’ve had a holiday as long as the power reserve of this watch. Which is 10 days. Ten. Days. Which means this watch would still be ticking after one wind upon my return from these far-too-short ‘holidays’. I digress, but that sad example goes a long way to establishing the technical credibility of this watch, and to proving the point that as soon as lockdown ends, I’m outta here for a while. Enjoy – Andrew Hublot are well known for their patented brand of boldly designed and technologically advanced watchmaking, and if there’s one watch that embodies those qualities, it’s the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold. The barrel-inspired case measures an extroverted 45mm and is hewn from one of the brand’s in-house precious alloys in King Gold, which has an array of complex finishes. The exposed bezel screws, articulating case shape and black rubber strap all see to the fulfilment of the bold design requirement. And within this thoughtfully designed case is where the technologically advanced component is evident. Powering this warmly toned behemoth is Hublot’s manufacture Calibre…
Yesterday, we published an explainer on why lug to lug measurement is a better fit-telling metric than case diameter. Today, we’re continuing the theme, with yet more examples, this time with a focus on big watches that are suitable for smaller wrists. At the end of the day there is no substitute for trying on a watch in the metal, but making a trip to your local AD is not always an option. Lug to lug measurement, in my opinion, is the best way to guesstimate if a watch will flatter your wrist when buying a watch online – and this list proves it beyond doubt. All you need to do from here is learn the measurements of your best-fitting watch or any watch you have previously tried on that can serve as a benchmark for your wrist. As an example, I know anything over 50mm is unlikely to suit my wrist (which is why I opted for a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight over the GMT as much as I love that Pepsi bezel). Let’s explore 10 watches with compact lug to lug measurements in proportion to their case diameter. You may be surprised at some of these numbers……
It goes without saying that fans of Omega Speedmaster are some of the most ardently passionate people within the watch community and, indeed, the general population. As a watchmaker, Omega understand and foster this enthusiasm, and have this year acknowledged the legions of Speedy supporters with a very special new release. To commemorate one of the most important moments in Speedmaster history, the Biel-based brand has produced the all-new Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary, and this old dog has a very new trick up its sleeve. Behind the sapphire caseback of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary is a mechanical animation when the chronograph is activated that shows Snoopy seated in his Command and Service Module (CSM), making a journey to the far side of the Moon. The moon itself is ‘painted’ onto the sapphire crystal caseback using a “micro-structured metallisation” process, and sits in front of a disc with the Earth on it, creating a sense of distance between the two. The Earth disc sits directly behind the 9 o’clock running seconds sub-dial and, as a result, will rotate just as the Earth does, except once every 60 seconds. Surrounding the Earth disc is the…
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept line can easily be not just confusing, but confounding when you first come across it. The case shape is so alien … who is it even made for? When the first Concept was released in 2002, it more resembled a piece of lab equipment from a sci-fi movie than a watch, which is a topic Andrew discussed with Michael Friedman, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, recently in a lively Zoom call. Over the last 18 years, the Concept has undergone many changes, and, in the process the Concept enigma has deepened rather than crystallised. However, the collection slowly begins to make sense once you understand its purpose. The watches, which truly represent the pinnacle of modern technology and design, are few and far between, often acting as a compromise between new-world manufacture and old-word principles. The Concept is for the now, and now we have the latest addition — the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT in blue. Calling what encapsulates the watch a ‘case’ feels like a massive disservice. Its architecture is so deliberate and sculpted that it deserves something a lot closer to ‘fortress’, or ‘eighth wonder of the industrial world’.…
Whenever we look at a watch’s specifications online, we generally find the usual suspects – case diameter and thickness, depth rating, type of crystal, number of jewels in the movement and so on. But this information omits perhaps the most important detail; the ‘lug to lug’ measurement. Although commonly discussed within the enthusiast community, very rarely are the lug to lug measurements of a watch listed within the provided specifications from the brands. What is lug to lug? Zach, slow down buddy, what exactly is lug to lug? For the uninitiated, the lug to lug measurement of a watch is the measurement in millimeters from the top most extremity of the case lugs to the bottom. Not to be confused with lug width, which is a measurement between two lugs on the same side of the case, and which are crucial for determining strap width. Case study #1 – When lug to lug helps a watch wear smaller DOXA SUB 300 (42mm x 45mm) The recent re-release of the SUB 300 is a great example of a professionally sized watch that is capable of flattering any wrist. With DOXA’s Flying Saucer-like profile, this sleek and superb diver is a great…