Does the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Steel truly belong with the big hitters? We put two Trinity Watches next to it to find out….
While I have my loupe on and shirtsleeves turned up, consider this article an appointment with a hypnotist. Because, in my opinion, there is a pressing need to reset the preconceptions of the ‘Holy Trinity’, and to call out the desire created by inaccessibility for what it really is: which is FOMO. Not being able to have things. How it makes us want to have things. But the three-watch comparison we have created here is not a setup with a predetermined outcome. Perhaps, after all, we should leave existing structures of worship intact. Perhaps the ‘Trinity’ is timeless? Untouchable? The Bulgari Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel that emerged in January this year is the perfect contender to shake up the dream team duo. Finally, there is a more casual, and more capable, steel version of the Octo Finissimo priced to sell, with its virtual gloves on, ready to contest the Sports Integrated Championship belt. The contender will go up against the two icons, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 (not pictured in the hand, that’s a 15500) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, at double and four times the price. A tall order? Let’s see… The case of the Nautilus…
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It might be a coincidence, or it might be provenance. But what was once a supplier of professional tool watches for the masses has slowly but surely become the undisputed king that wears the crown among luxury brands. Rolex dominates auction catalogues, while holding and appreciating in value for the lucky owners, and is only readily available for most on the grey market – with commensurate premiums and markups attached. While the financially fortunate are able to succour to these higher prices, and in the process skip the enigma that is the Rolex “wait list”, most everyday consumers are left in a vexed position if they want to buy any of the current collection. It’s simply not an option, without a long and established relationship with your local AD that is. So, the burning question: are there any bargains left in the Rolex catalogue? And are they actually available? Let’s take a look at four candidates. Rolex Datejust – smooth bezel, Oyster bracelet configuration Rolex Datejust models are a staple within the Rolex catalogue, with ladies models supposedly racking up the most sales for the brand each year – take that, patriarchy! Bringing it back to the subject at hand,…
For a kid growing up in rural Victoria, Australia, England always seemed closer than the 16,000 or so kilometres away that it was in actuality. We had to sing God Save The Queen once a week. There was a picture of the Queen in our classrooms, and my dad had a serious penchant for English literature. The only books in my childhood house were about steam trains and wars that England won. Little England, for real. The bedtime book most favoured, Paddington Bear. So, in my mind over the years, I’ve dreamed of the place. When I could finally visit it, in my early 20s, I was not disappointed. The people reading books on the Tube. The markets. The accent that makes everyone sound so blooming intelligent. The apologising for everything. The shitty weather. London felt like home. Which is why, 20 years later, I am quietly overjoyed to be opening an office in my second favourite city (I do quite fancy Melbourne, where I live and where T+T is based). It’s a humble beginning, very much like ours in 2014. Where back then it was a couple of people sitting in a small office one floor above a laneway…
Last year, a national get-together for watch lovers was launched by a well known Sydney-based collector, Paxton Wong. He called it ‘WatchFest’. And, despite every possible obstacle, the show will go on again in COVID-stricken 2020. Because, well, community. That’s what it’s all about, isn’t it? There’s no doubt that both the international and Australian watch markets have been badly impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic. Tourism has almost totally evaporated, and foot-traffic through watch boutiques has significantly reduced due to population lockdowns and social distancing measures. And these impacts aren’t just felt by the larger luxury groups such as LVMH and Richemont. The abrupt decline has been felt even more acutely by smaller local businesses, too. That’s why Paxton Wong has decided to push ahead with WatchFest Australia 2020. Not just to celebrate horology in Australia, but to rally support for businesses in the local Australian watch market. “I originally started WatchFest because we need to put Australia on the map,” said Paxton when I spoke with him recently. “The watch community is such a good one in Australia. It doesn’t matter if you’re wearing a Casio or a Patek Philippe, the community is welcoming and I wanted to bring…
Although it’s never really taken off as an uber-popular complication like a chronograph or moonphase, the alarm function of JLC’s Memovox watches has, since they were first unveiled in 1968, been exceedingly practical. But it’s a complication that’s usually been found in the watchmaker’s daintier, and perhaps less practical, dress watches. This has meant that one of the sharpest tools in JLC’s shed has remained pigeon-holed, and off limits for those who prefer a sportier, bolder option. That is, until now. Introducing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Memovox, a bulletproof stainless steel diver’s watch that — as its name suggests — houses the brilliant Memovox alarm function. This is an exciting watch from JLC, so let’s take a closer look. The top-line development here is that this model – a boutique only exclusive in Australia – blends two of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s worlds in one watch. The borderline aggressive sportiness of the Master Compressor range, for example, with the refined, superbly finished elegance of the current Polaris range. If the existing Polaris range went to Oxford for a second degree after attaining their first, this sibling went to the gym. If the existing Polaris range went to Oxford for a second degree after attaining their…
Jaeger-LeCoultre is widely regarded as making some of the finest dress watches on the market. But for those not familiar with the Le Sentier firm’s full collection, JLC also makes a very good stainless steel sports watch – the Polaris. And now the legacy watchmaker has decided to up the ante with the Polaris, broadening its breadth of abilities and unveiling an entirely new model aimed squarely at taking on some of the best steel dive watches on the market. Introducing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date. The case JLC has described the new Mariner as being both sporty and elegant, and, to their credit, the 42mm x 13.92mm stainless steel case of this watch appears to be exactly that. Short, tapered lugs, with a decent amount of inwardly concaved articulation, give way to a simple and round body that looks inoffensive yet purposeful. The aforementioned lugs are horizontally brushed, which definitely gives off a dynamic aura; however, the lugs’ edges are chamfered, and the plain steel bezel is also highly polished, so there’s visible opulence on offer too. Now, a dive watch without a rotating bezel would be about as useful as an oxygen tank without O2, but don’t fret,…
Whether you’re a history buff, or just have a big budget for your costume parties, owning a historic timepiece can be a truly special experience. To identify with such an antiquated time period doesn’t just fulfil a niche curiosity in the old, but it connects us directly to a time of great innovation and exploration — aspects of watchmaking that still separate the great masters of horology to this day. As we begin the 2020s, 100 years since the decade that saw the wristwatch soar in popularity, we are celebrating by taking a look at some of the best watches of the 1920s that sum up that era, both new and antique. Rolex Oyster As quintessential as the mighty Submariner is today, its spirit is undoubtedly passed down from its parent — the original Rolex Oyster. Though similar technology had been implemented with pocket watches, Rolex were the first to use a hermetically sealed case and screw-down crown in a wristwatch in the late 1920s. Knowing that marketing was just as important as innovating, Rolex strapped an Oyster to the wrist of Mercedes Gleitze, the first British woman to swim the English Channel. What happened next is the stuff of…
OK, this one is truly curious. For some utterly unknowable reason, MasterChef Australia, very much like cricket, is monstrously popular in India. It’s not that the show doesn’t have its charms. Every single Aussie on the planet has, at one point or another, been drawn into a series of MasterChef. If they say they’ve never liked it, they’re lying. For me, the flavour lasted for more than one season. The first three or so were a daily addiction, and for this brief moment in history, I was five per cent more interested than usual in cooking. This was over a decade ago, and all I have to remember this phase by is a long-expired packet of cumin somewhere in the back of my pantry. Anyway, I digress … India is an emerging luxury watch market (at least it was before COVID-19; who knows what will emerge on the other side of this thing) and some eagle-eyed spotters at Ethos Watches have done a pretty bang up job at putting together an updated list of what the judges are currently wearing on a regular basis. This caught my attention for the obvious reasons – watchspotting generally always has my attention, but…
This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight re-edition from Bulgari. The choices are diverse, if not easy to make. A fool might suggest to double your budget and take two home, but play your cards right and your budget might stretch further than you think. Grand Seiko SBGP005 Yes, the first watch here has got a quartz movement, and I’m very happy to admit it is also my debut as a quartz fan, as a Grand Seiko quartz movement is something very special. But what we notice first is, of course, the Japanese mastery of case finishing and dial details. The term “Luxury Quartz”, coined by Nick Kenyon in our story on the SBGP005 here, might still be contradictory to some, but is spot-on for this vision in dark blue and steel that punches way above its weight. The case is the classic strong-sided design we know well, giving us that…
Well, it’s taken six years, but today a dream comes true. I am thrilled beyond measure to announce that former GQ Australia Editor, and recent Geneva Watch Days collaborator, Mike Christensen is joining the team as European Editor – Time+Tide is coming to London! The London-based role vanquishes the tyranny of distance and sees Time+Tide move closer to the very heart of watchmaking. Why the UK? Why now? We’re humbled – and I must admit, surprised, as it’s happened totally organically – to say that our UK-based readers are in steep ascent year on year. In 2018, UK readers consumed 650,500 sessions. In 2019, that number nearly doubled to 1.1m. In 2020, UK readers comprise around 10 per cent of Time+Tide’s total traffic, making them the third largest group after Australia and the USA. Meet Mike Mike, a Brit himself, is widely known and respected in the watch industry, and in the broader style and luxury space. Through his stint at GQ, he was a fellow Baselworld and SIHH road-warrior. I have many, many memories of slumping with Mike in the media lounges of the Swiss-based fairs, battling brutal jetlag with bottle after bottle of warm beer. It never worked,…