The strong will get stronger, and the weak "will eventually disappear", Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic
We spoke to Jean-Claude Biver recently for an upcoming feature-length video, and while we were on Zoom, the conversation turned to the pandemic. We took the opportunity to ask him some pointed questions about the industry’s recovery. How long does he think it will take? Who will be the winners and losers? He also shared a “magical equation” that applies if you can “make the crisis your friend.” How is this crisis different to others you’ve experienced? “It’s not the first crisis we’ve seen, certainly for me. I’ve been in the watch industry since 1974 and this crisis that we have now is a global crisis. It’s a crisis because of a virus. It has nothing to do with a structural crisis of the industry, as we had when quartz came, that was a structural crisis. When you have a structural crisis, the recovery is totally different to when you have a pandemic crisis.” When do you think we’ll be out of it? “The first thing I can say is some brands will be out of the crisis in September, they will have a January comparable to last year. They will have a typical ‘V-shaped’ recovery. Some other brands will…
The post The strong will get stronger, and the weak “will eventually disappear”, Jean-Claude Biver assesses the pandemic appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
It’s been a great year for new watches, and one of the biggest contributors to this slew of attractive wristwatches is TAG Heuer, who continue their run of strong releases in 2020. The latest release from the La Chaux-de-Fonds watchmaker is the TAG Heuer Carrera Elegant collection, adding another feather to the Carrera cap after the announcements earlier this year of the TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection. But in a year when the Carrera collection has been such a focal point for the brand, what does this latest release offer? The TAG Heuer Carrera Elegant collection continues exploring the vision of blending the past and the present, vintage design cues with contemporary flair, but rather than the bold vitality of the Carrera Sport Chronograph collection, the Carrera Elegant collection is a sleek and refined expression of the same source DNA. You won’t find any utilitarian tachymeter bezels here – instead you’ll find a much more subtle thin steel bezel that serves up a much less imposing presence on the wrist. Within the new range, there are three references with variously black, blue and anthracite dials, as well as a silver dial with rose gold dial furniture rounding out the…
It cannot be refuted how much Switzerland has influenced horology and the luxury watch industry at large. As a result, designs across brands can seem familiar when they all draw from the same well of inspiration and technique. Bulgari, however, continues to stand out from the pack, blending its Swiss watchmaking know-how with its Italian mastery of design. The Bulgari High-End Watch 2020 Novelties are clear examples of the fact that “high-jewellery” and “high-watchmaking” artisans can work in tandem to create pure magic for the wrist. All of these watches are true works of art from the Roman Jeweller of Time. The Octo Roma Arabesque ref. 103403 The Octo Roma Arabesque ref. 103403 is a gorgeous museum piece of a watch. Its 40mm 18k pink gold case is adorned with a baroque embroidery of pink sapphires, tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds. According to Bulgari, “The Arabesque shape is a key figure in baroque architecture, a touchstone of the romantic eclecticism that defined the era’s churches and palazzi.” You would think the dial cover would make the watch quite thick, but this is not the case (see what I did there?). Powered by the manufacture caliber BVL 268 — the thinnest tourbillon on the…
The Apple Watch has been a point of contention with watch collectors since its debut in April of 2015. When the dust settles from the rants and snobbery, one fact becomes clear – the Apple Watch is the most complicated piece of wristwear for the dollar in the entire world. The Apple Watch Series 6 and SE models are the latest smartwatches from Apple, and you are sure to see plenty of coverage on these releases across the web. So rather than recap the specs and features, let’s focus on five things that are new to the Apple Watch lineup. WatchOS 7 WatchOS 7 continues to advance the capabilities of the Apple Watch. While watchOS 7 introduces seven new faces into the mix, the two that are sure to be fan favourites will be the new Chronograph Pro and GMT face configurations. These new faces are also very customisable – with the wearer being able to adjust everything from the colour scheme to the style of numeral display on the bezel. This arguably makes the Apple Watch Series 6 the most compelling Apple Watch yet for horology fans – as you can change the aesthetic in many different combinations without…
Editor’s note: It’s high time we updated this list, with some new additions knocking firmly on the door in 2020. But before we do that, we have to say, the logic still holds. All watches here are indeed at the right end of the value scale, and all well and truly get the nod from watch aficionados in the room. If you’re just getting in to watches, you don’t have to spend a lot to have a diverse and interesting collection to choose from. Here are some of the best affordable watches, that will still turn heads among your watch friends. Swatch Sistem51 You could easily argue that any Swatch on this list would be a good shout (with the possible exception of the curiously priced Flymagic), but the Sistem51 takes the crown because it is not just a great model from a world-famous, incredibly credible brand, but also because it is mechanically interesting. It is pretty darn hard to get any kind of technical conversation starter at around $300, with the best of the rest capable of dividing aesthetic opinion. With an automatic movement, optically dazzling “mystery rotor” and a raft of colourful, engaging styles, the Sistem51 collection is hard…
Frederique Constant has updated and overhauled their Highlife line, which was originally created more than 20 years ago to bring a high-value horological offering to the consumer. Standard production models of this new lineup were recently launched in steel, gold-plated, and two-tone steel and gold-plated models — in both time and date only (Automatic COSC) and perpetual calendar versions. And now, something a little more spicy. The Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions bring a subtle, yet powerful punch of RedBar flavour to the new lineup of Highlife watches. The case(s): The two Frederique Constant Highlife RedBar Limited Editions are encased in a 3-part polished stainless steel case. They are both 41mm in diameter with a convex sapphire crystal covering the dial and anti-glare coatings on both the dial and exhibition crystals. The anti-glare coatings provide a subtle blue hue in the right light that plays well against the grey backdrop on each of the dials. The cases offer up to 5 ATM or 50 metres of water resistance. Where the Perpetual Calendar version differs is through its case-side pushers controlling the perpetual calendar complication. The pusher under the crown is for correction of the moon phase, the pusher at…
If you’re a motoring enthusiast, you know that the glory is in the details. Few vehicle manufacturers latched onto this ethos as much as Italian companies did in the ’60s and ’70s, designing breathtaking, voluptuous bodywork, with the most luxurious interior touches. Whether it was seats, shift knobs, or the instrument cluster, everything had to be a visual feast. That way, when you put your foot to the floor, you were guaranteed a driving experience that was both beautiful and visceral. Try as they might, modern manufacturers can’t reproduce that same feeling, whether it be down to necessary safety features, ever-tightening budget restrictions, or simply just an evolution in tastes. Thankfully, this passion is alive and well in motor-themed watches, as the lust for detail-focused engineering synchronises perfectly with obsessive artistry. MAALS Watches takes notes from heritage car brands and integrates them into their own personality-driven designs. Where some brands take legendary racing liveries and use those colours on a rather standard-looking watch, MAALS’ newest Kickstarter campaign, the Giri Ventiquattro, imbues subtle automotive details within an already highly unique timepiece. The UK-based micro are doing things with off-the-shelf Miyota movements that aren’t really seen anywhere else, such as on their…
Undone are reaching a point of ubiquity in the microbrand world where it is probably prudent to have tried one on the wrist. With, of course, one prevailing question in mind – how could these watches deliver on their looks? We ordered a couple in. Because, somehow Undone seem able to keep up a huge variety in designs whilst giving each one the right amount of attention to detail, from jeans-and-tshirt divers to lavishly decorated dress pieces. Quality, intrigue, and customisability are all distinct traits of the eclectic brand, and none of that changes for their art deco-inspired chronograph, the Vintage Killy. As one of their most popular designs, it’s a great place to start. The dial There’s no denying that for the Vintage Killy, the dial is the star of the show. The cream tone is phenomenally warm and inviting, with the domed crystal softly distorting the perimeter an ideal amount. The blue tachymeter matches the blue leaf hands and frames them perfectly, while the red telemetre track provides just enough contrast of colour to enhance the charm of the watch. The art deco numerals are incredibly characterful, making you feel as though you’ve just stepped into the 1927…
Sometimes cinema prop masters get lucky. On certain rare occasions, instead of having to unearth pitch-perfect watches for a movie, brands will collaborate on brand-new timepieces that are purpose-built for the film. This often proves to be a win-win. The brands get some welcome publicity and a touch of big-screen glamour, the prop masters get watches that are tonally spot-on and unique. Here are five memorable examples. Tenet x Hamilton Tenet is Christopher Nolan’s new and, let’s face it, utterly baffling sci-fi thriller. It basically involves soldiers racing back and forth through time in a desperate bid to find a special algorithm to save the world (or something). Anyway, given the central nature of time in the film, our gallant hero’s watch plays a prominent role, particularly in the climactic stages. As a result, Nolan wanted a special watch. The film’s production designer subsequently approached Hamilton to create a military-style watch with an extra-bright digital screen housed within an otherwise analogue dial. The brand responded by customising their Khaki Navy BeLOWZERO model and integrating a digital screen as requested. The watch’s mechanical movement was replaced with a digital one and a powerful battery installed to illuminate the neon glow of…
Close to being at a loss for words … almost thankful that I haven’t got this on my wrist for a hands-on review as I would not leave the house. Email to Director: Self-imposed lockdown initiated, reason — the new Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Flying Tourbillon Chronograph needs a full 10 days of attention, all Wi-Fi and mobile communication hereby disconnected. Let’s start with the obvious. The CODE 11.59 range has been expanded this year with new references featuring more expressive colours. From the first image alone, it is clear that this is something completely different again. The Tourbillon Chronograph is clearly the halo model of the range, a masterpiece of horological complexity that beguiles you with its midnight blue details and top-tier symmetrical beauty. The dial Any description of this CODE 11.59, with its openworked design having a lack of a traditional dial, is seriously underselling this symmetrical feast of angles, curves and delicately shaped bridges in galvanic black titanium and nickel silver. They sit in a holy union, forming an almost gothic pattern of skeletonisation, being both intrinsically distracting yet calming in its symmetry. The breathtaking details of the flying tourbillon, with its lack of an upper bridge,…