The Rolex that got away. The now discontinued rhodium Oyster Perpetual 39mm that I will never own…
Editor’s note: The real surprise from Rolex’s new releases last week for me? Not 1mm. Not candy pink. Nope. The stomach-clenching moment came when I learned that the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 39 ref. 114300 would be discontinued. And the thing is, it’s just about the last model I would have ever worried about losing. The Air-King? Shocked it’s still around to be honest. The Explorer II? Due for a refresh. But a watch as classic and perennially on-trend as a 39mm OP? ESPECIALLY in that Goldilocks 39mm size? My eyebrows are still raised. And by saying that I’ve “lost access” to it, of course, I can buy it on the aftermarket for 25 per cent above retail (it can now be bought for circa $10,000AUD), and you could possibly hunt one down at retail (retailers, you know where to find me) but I’m just not going to do that in my current mindset. It’s too soon. So for now, it’s the Rolex on my list that got away. The one I waited too long for. Took for granted. So, let’s go into the pain and revisit it. And hey, if you see something you love, move on it. It may not be there tomorrow. The…
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Well, the enthusiastic comments on the video, the site post and the socials have confirmed it – this new Raymond Weil Freelancer in a pitch perfect olive green, with that eye-catching exposed balance well and truly have your attention. Which is why we thought we’d upgrade the Hands-On review and bring it to you in the metal, as well. Questions about the dial, its texture, and case and size etc will all be answered herewith. To recap, and in short, Raymond Weil has spent the best part of a decade languishing a good distance away from the zeitgeist that has been the rise of practically a whole new vanguard of competitors. But the brilliant thing about competition is that it has the ability to breed success. And that’s what the new Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 in Green is … a straight up success. Chief among its charms is simply the way it looks. It’s easily the most attractive RW in years, but it’s not the only reason why this watch is worth a look. It’s also got some good tech-specs, a nice, contemporary feel and … it’s green, which is the new “it” colour in watch world. Well done…
I am beginning to run out of synonyms for the scope of Grand Seiko for 2020, with yet another impressive reference being pulled out of what seems to be a very deep hat. This time we are looking at the Grand Seiko SBGC238, a limited edition of the largest most angular case possibly ever from the brand. It is a shape that echoes strength in a futuristic form that, in spite of its angular weapons-grade appearance, sits very comfortable on the wrist, once again setting the bar for large-case ergonomics. The case Yes, we are looking at a large chunk of 18k rose gold, bringing a subtle twist to the toughness of this particular shape that entered the fray in 2019, which, with its tough-looking body, is inspired by the Grand Seiko lion. This is especially visible in the sharp, angled corner of the cushion-shaped case, symbolising the razor-sharp ferocity of the lion’s claw. The delicate juxtaposition of the Zaratsu polish on the case end and sides plays brilliantly against the brushed angles, made even clearer with the rose gold. This particular case shape is unlike the more rounded or 44GS-inspired shapes we are used to from Grand Seiko, creating…
In a move that sees one of their most recognisable families undergoing a revitalisation, the new TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is a serious statement by the brand. The Carrera DNA is clear for all to see, but the case and dial have been reinvigorated with some subtle changes that deliver a more contemporary and energetic collection under the historic name, a change that is as exciting as it is welcome. The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection is made up of four new references, all of which are cased in 44mm of stainless steel. There is a range of dial tones on offer, with blue, green and black options creating a palette that is as diverse as it is on trend. Of the four references, there is one that has a little extra panache, with the black dial reference on alligator leather strap coming complete with rose gold highlights found in the hands, hour markers, chronograph pushers and crown. The other three references are more utilitarian in their finishing, with the steel cases integrating nicely with their steel bracelets, secured with folding clasps. TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph collection price and availability: The TAG Heuer Carrera Sport Chronograph…
Last year, self-taught watchmaking artisan and creative genius Hajime Asaoka decided he wanted to launch a more accessible range of watches to satiate those who loved his creations but could not afford them. The bespoke watches made under Hajime Asaoka’s name start at around $40,000 USD and take a year or more to produce. Kurono Tokyo, however, is a different story. As the Kurono watches website explains, “Kurono aims to deliver to watch collectors a more accessible timepiece that shares the design DNA of Hajime’s exclusive handmade atelier watches, at affordable levels.” To date (not including the Japanese Domestic Market references released under the name Chrono Tokyo), the brand has released two watches in varying dial colours – and all sold out the day they launched on their website. Let’s get to know them… The watches The first is a time-only watch. The first three models released by the brand were the Kurono Bunkyō Tokyo Eggshell, Blue, and Grey in June 2019. Each colour was made in a run of 50 pieces. Six months later, in December, the duo of time-only “Reiwa” watches were released in 50 pieces per variant. The Reiwa models differed from the initial three in that rather…
For some, the idea of ‘luxury quartz’ is a complete contradiction. Since the decimation of the mechanical watch industry upon its widespread release, quartz movement technology has never shaken off that stigma that draws dirty looks from watch enthusiasts around the world. The truth is not as simple as a hero and villain, however. Once you start to view any innovation as valid innovation, a whole new world of appreciation opens up, and nobody innovates like Grand Seiko. The Grand Seiko SBGP005 is just more proof, and the sceptics are running out of excuses. The ever-popular 44GS case has returned, with its modern-yet-modest 40mm diameter, 11.1mm thickness, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug creating a welcome set of dimensions for fitting almost any wrist, small or large. The melding of large sweeping curves and sharply angled facets give the watch all of its vintage charm, without looking too much like something from 60 years ago. It also hits the sweet spot in weight, coming in at 142g, which is heavier and thus more reassuring than you might expect from a thin quartz timepiece. The three-link bracelet utilises polished edges on the middle links to give some added visual complexity, without appearing as overly…
Shock. That’s been the general consensus for the last few days among our enthusiast community. Rolex has just unveiled the all-new Rolex Submariner Date 41mm Ref.126610LN, and they’ve made one of the biggest changes to the dive watch in its 51 years of existence. For the first time in the legendary moniker’s history, the Oyster case of the new Submariner has been enlarged to 41mm, up from 40mm. Now that may not sound like a big deal to the dilettante, but for those who have lauded the Submariner as one of the most iconic, recognisable and celebrated watches of all time, trust us when we say, this is a BIG deal. Not since the introduction of the Ref.16800 in 1979, has the size of the Submariner changed. It’s also worth noting that when the Ref.1680 and its 39.5mm case was superseded by the 16800, it only grew by 0.5mm. And that’s the way the Subby has stayed for the last 41 years … it was a certainty, something you’d bet money on – the sun will rise in the morning, and the Rolex Submariner will always be 40mm. Even in 2010, when the namesake adopted the “Maxi Case” and became…
In a week marked by the one-millimetre revolution, Audemars Piguet has quietly tip-toed into the room and released a frosty breeze of a limited Royal Oak to everyone’s surprise. As if by magic, a new reference of the perfectly sized 39mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Limited Edition in 18k white gold appeared on their website. This is no revolution, but rather a superb dial colour variation suiting the white gold to a tee. I’m thinking this is a sharp move by AP, though with a short 100-piece production run they might be gone rather quickly, as this combination is a bright menthol-fresh breeze for the wrist. The chronograph version of the Royal Oak is, of course, nothing new, but as with any icon, there is a reason behind the status, the same reason it is for many considered the Audemars Piguet of choice. One of these reasons is the delicate presence this king of sleek integrated bracelets has on the wrist with its 39mm diameter and sleek 11mm thickness. I am very much looking forward to trying one of these on, as the svelte nature of the bracelet’s embrace is somewhat perplexingly made more comforting in the gold versions I…
Over the past five years or so, I have bought, traded and sold watches in order to build and grow my collection. Two months ago, I was able to acquire a watch that I am still in disbelief I am able to own and wear. High on my grail list, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down 221.021 was always an endgame watch for me. It was something I wanted to work towards and eventually be able to call mine. They say don’t meet your heroes, in the worry they may disappoint you once you meet them in the flesh – or, in this case, in the metal. So, does the watch live up to my expectations? Let’s find out… The backstory/recap Swiss watches, in this industry, are typically the focus of conversation. The “Holy Trinity”, in regard to the pinnacle of watchmaking, refers to three Swiss brands: Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. Many argue, however, that A. Lange & Söhne should be considered as equally prestigious as the three aforementioned brands. With German ancestry myself, it has always been a company that has piqued my interest. The traditional German style, with a 3/4 bridge plate and an…
The wild profusion of colours in the new Rolex Oyster Perpetual collection caught many by surprise this week. And it immediately had people drawing parallels with the colour suites of other brands. It begs the question, are these new sporty and youthful lacquer dials – in candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green – a blast from Rolex’s past, or something completely new, perhaps inspired by other brands? A Brief History of Rolex Dials and Color Rolex is primarily known as a brand of modesty and incremental change, built upon robust and reliable watches. More often than not, you will typically see Rolex watches in four colors (at least in their steel watches) – Black, White, Silver, and Blue. Their precious metal watches of the past, however, were a bit more adventurous in dial tone and configuration. In 1956 the Rolex Day-Date was released and became one of the brand’s most luxurious and prestigious watches. Just four years after its release, not a long time in Rolex years, they began to experiment with the lineup, introducing dials with diamonds and eastern arabic numerals. Stone dial configurations were brought into the mix as well – fabricated from stones such as Onyx, Jasper,…