INTRODUCING: A. Lange & Söhne's Odysseus in white gold with ghost grey dial is a total smokeshow
A. Lange & Söhne don’t always do things by the book. The year is 2019. The demand for steel luxury sports watches is at an all-time high. And along comes the brand’s brand new Odysseus model. The polarising design (with naysayers focusing on the thicc steel bracelet as a flaw) took the established trope of water resistant, blue-dialled steel watches with an integrated bracelet. But in typically Lange fashion, it added nigh-on incomparable levels of engineering. The push buttons alone, hidden inside the gently sloping crown guard and used to advance the sophisticated day and date wheels, mark out the Odysseus technical territory. At 2020’s online edition of the Watches & Wonders trade show, the Glashütte giants unveiled a new version of the Odysseus. sporting a sleek grey dial and rubber or leather strap. However, in a sleight of hand that Audemars Piguet fans may find familiar, the biggest shock was that the case wasn’t steel, but 18k white gold. First things first. This edition is miles ahead of the steel Odysseus visually. Not that the older model is subpar by any stretch, but the stippled centre dial section, surrounded by concentric circles, tends to fall a bit flat when…
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In a recent opinion piece, I extolled one of the central virtues of a modern luxury watch as being its viability for multi-generational use. But that is to presume the owner is going to be diligent with maintaining it. So, what’s the worst thing that can happen if you don’t service your watch? I asked some top-tier watchmakers that question and more around the subject of servicing. Colin de Tonnac is a French watchmaker who previously worked for Patek Philippe. He launched his own brand, Semper & Adhuc, in 2016. Eric Greenberg is a US-based watchmaker. He has extended his rather incredible accomplishments in the technology sector to watchmaking. On his Instagram account, he shares details about the unrivalled care he takes in servicing client’s timepieces (as well as the mistakes he uncovers from prior service efforts!). Aren’t modern watches built to run perfectly well beyond their recommended service intervals? CDT: Yes, a mechanical watch can in some cases work perfectly for 30 years without maintenance. However, it should be noted that these movements accumulate years and years of wear and tear and when a breakdown occurs, it will be all the more difficult to make a repair without changing…
Credit where credit is due. There may well be global turmoil the likes of which we’ve never seen before, but IWC has taken all in their stride and released a brace of new watches in 2020 that are set to stun. Though quietly, and with the kind of confidence that doesn’t require theatrics. It is, overall, a formidable display of power. And, in a fashion similar to what we’ve seen in previous years, the Schaffhausen outfit has singled out an entire model range for a complete makeover – 2020 is all about the Portugieser. Last year it was the watchmaker’s Pilot collection that got the special treatment. This year, it’s the brand’s iconic Portugieser collection – that CEO Chris Grainger-Herr refers to as the “heart” of IWC – that’s getting a complete refresh, including some brand-new models. There’s quite a bit to get through with this range review, so if you’re a fan of the International Watch Company, put the kettle on and put your feet up and enjoy. IWC Portugieser Chronograph Undoubtedly the collection’s most popular model, the Portugieser Chronograph is just one of those watches that has stood the test of time – IWC got the formula…
It was all a bit mad, really. Trying to film an hour-long video that recaps 30-ish new watches, with research consisting of poring over various screens to take in the details of each watch ahead of the shoot. Then wrangling assets, and ringing in friends on Zoom (thank you Sandra, Nick and Christoph!), and achieving a bucket list goal of throwing to Chris Farley. In that frenzy of activity, choosing highlights from the fair was harder than ever. But, who am I kidding, making lists in the midst of a fair – even a virtual one – is never easy. However, first impressions do count for something, and these are the early watches that I would pick out of all seen so far to handle in the metal at the first chance I get. Where the first video was long, this one is not – less than the average pop song, so get ready for a quick blast. To watch the full feature length video, go right ahead.
Like an addict itching for a fix, I recently listened to a football podcast where one of the hosts dropped a surprising confession. He admitted that, despite Covid-19 having stopped all games being played for six weeks, he wasn’t actually missing live football. Instead he’d taken the opportunity to re-watch old World Cups, enjoy classic matches from the past and pore over documentaries on some of the greatest players ever to grace the pitch. This experience, he insisted, had served to rekindle his love for the sport. In fact, he was now enjoying his football far more than when he was mainlining new goals on a weekly basis. Well, of course you are, his co-host replied. It’s like having to choose between listening to this week’s Top 40 singles or selecting tracks from a back catalogue of the greatest songs of all time. Frankly, there’s only ever going to be one winner. In essence, what he was saying was that just because something is brand new doesn’t make it automatically superior. This wisdom doesn’t just extend to re-familiarising yourself with the outlaw genius of Diego Maradona, either. It applies to watches, too. Imagine, for a second, that you won the…
When Richemont acquired Minerva to pair with Montblanc to fast-track legitimacy for their watchmaking division, some scoffed at the audacity. Taking a respected, historical watchmaker and giving their patents to a pen brand seemed like horological heresy at the time; however, Montblanc’s commitment to continuing Minerva’s legacy only grows more apparent with each subsequent year of new releases. Burgeoning respect from all, even the naysayers, is happening. For 2020’s online edition of Watches & Wonders, Montblanc have updated their collections to include 10 novel designs, ranging from subtle dial changes to bombastic antique re-imaginings. Heritage Collection While Montblanc’s 21st century merger with Minerva has given them access to a plethora of unique complications and designs, the Heritage Collection honours the more restrained timepieces from the ’40s and ’50s, evoking the post-war boom of prosperity and optimism. Two chronographs make up the three new models. The Heritage Monopusher Chronograph isn’t just salmon-dialled, its dial is subtly sectioned into rings of sunburst brushing and grainy stippling. Black rhodium coats the indices and hands, granting a soft contrast that doesn’t jut out too much. As with each of the new Heritage models, the bent lugs and curved spring bars help reduce the 42mm…
Vacheron Constantin are a member of the horological holy trinity for very good reason. When it comes to technical innovation and craftsmanship, they are close to peerless in their capacity to not only create some of the most complex and interesting movements ever, but execute the design in an extremely well-thought-out wristwatch. They won the “Innovation” prize only last year at the GPHG with the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and continue to leave jaws slack with some of their 2020 releases, with new offerings in the Overseas, Fiftysix and Traditionnelle families. And while all of these watches are remarkable examples of design and engineering in their own right, Vacheron Constantin have outdone themselves with a Grand Complication being offered this year. So without further ado, let’s take a look at some of the most impressive watches that make up the Vacheron Constantin 2020 collection. Vacheron Constantin “La Musique du Temps” Les Cabinotiers Grand Complication Split-seconds chronograph This year, Vacheron Constantin have flexed their watchmaking muscle, with the release of a unique double-sided watch with a total of 24 complications housed between the the two dials. Powered by their new in-house caliber 2756 that delivers an incredible 65…
Watches & Wonders, the second biggest watch fair of the year, has just dropped. And by dropped we mean there’s a website with some stuff on it, because this is 2020 and we’re all stuck at home self isolating. We found the concept of having to opt in to an interactive website a little too involved for a Saturday morning, so we’ve taken the legwork out of it by filming the first-ever feature length Time+Tide video – and it’s essentially an hour-long virtual watch fair that recaps all the major brands and their releases in a talk show format. Because, personally speaking, do you really want to read on a Saturday? Me, nah. And in case you’re wondering, by ‘feature length’, we ain’t gilding the lily. This is over an hour of analysis, banter and brand new watches – it’s the ultimate ISO-FIX for watch lovers. It’s called the Time+Tide Home Delivery Watch Fair. It does what it says on the tin. Delivers a fresh watch fair to you, wherever you are, for your viewing pleasure. Isolation is nothing. Pyjamas are everything. We have you covered and you can come 100 as you are. Why should I watch this video?…
We don’t want to cry poor, because boy have we had some good times over the years. But the hidden thing about watch fairs is that they’re utterly exhausting. Especially when you travel for over 24 hours to get to them. Somehow, I have managed to re-create this effect without leaving Australia. Because, wait for it, we have filmed the first ever feature length Time+Tide video – and it’s essentially a virtual watch fair! And by feature length, we’re not stretching the truth either. This is over an hour of analysis, banter and brand new watches – it’s the ultimate ISO-FIX for watch lovers. It’s called the Time+Tide Home Delivery Watch Fair. It does what it says on the tin. Delivers a fresh watch fair to you, wherever you are, for your viewing pleasure. Isolation is nothing. Pyjamas are everything. We have you covered and you can come 100 as you are. The video launches at 8am tomorrow morning. How did we do it? Running the gauntlet of Australian social distancing regulations, we have worked with a skeleton staff of filming crew (thank you Saxall for dealing with our insane deadlines) to capture ALL of the embargoed watches which will be…
Make no mistake, the Cartier 2020 collection is a cracker. Last year we were offered a smaller collection of watches that focused on the Santos and Tonneau shapes, but this year we get most of that and much, much more. The latest releases from Cartier are broken down into five distinct collections, but there’s also the welcome return of some of the earliest and most remarkable designs from the French luxury firm. The Santos-Dumont continues to shine as the backbone of the brand’s design philosophy with two revivals in the form of the Privé and Pasha de Cartier collections. The exceptional craftsmanship of the Métiers d’Art collection continues, and Cartier also launches a brand new collection in the form of the Maillon de Cartier. Here are some of the highlights from each collection. Cartier Santos-Dumont Limited Editions These three Cartier Santos-Dumont Limited Editions are the logical destination of the journey Cartier embarked on in January last year. Back then, they released the Santos-Dumont in a range of different sizes, but kept them affordable by using quartz movements. Last month they teased us with the release of the Santos-Dumont XL, powered by an ultra-slim hand-wound mechanical movement and housed in a…