Micro magic: 3 microbrand watches that got everyone talking in 2019
The sheer breadth of microbrands currently occupying the horological hemisphere is nothing short of miraculous, and for us enthusiasts, it’s a very good time to be into watches. There have been numerous examples of microbrands knocking it out of the park over the last 12 months, and while we’d like to mention all of them, these three timepieces really stood out: MING 17.06 COPPER For a brand that has only been producing watches for two years, Ming have managed to create a remarkably consistent – and eminently recognisable – design language. This is clear in their new 17.06 Copper, an update to their original model, the 17.01. While the flared lugs express the panache of a brand making a name for themselves on the world stage, the gem hiding in plain sight on this watch is the dial. Its coppery warmth evokes the salmon tone used so commonly on the dials of mid-century Swiss watches. Ref No: 17.06C / Case size: 38mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: ETA 2824-2 / Price: CHF1250 CREUX AUTOMATIQ DIAMONDBACK Creux’s bid for more attention in the world of microbrands is likely to be achieved with the release of the Diamondback series. While the…
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Stetz & Co recently published an interview with one of the foremost vintage watch aficionados on the planet, Mr Roni Madhvani. Madhvani — or as he goes by on Instagram, @roni_m_29 — has a truly unbelievable collection of some of the rarest and most eccentric timepieces from the likes of Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. His Instagram page is the stuff of legend and, rather surprisingly, it’s one of the few watch ‘gram pages that isn’t littered with steel sports watches. No, Madhvani’s assemblage of watches all have two things in common: precious metal and unique case shapes. Whether it’s a Cartier Crash, Audemars Piguet “Disco Volante” or a Gilbert Albert-designed Patek Philippe, his Instagram feed is a veritable cornucopia of the strangest and most left-field watches out there. And, rather interestingly, Madhvani admits that since his appearance on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches back in 2016, the main focus of his collecting has been mid-20th century Audemars Piguet, and the reason for this interest is mainly because of the “increasing unaffordability of vintage Patek”. It’s a great interview, and if you’ve got the time, it’s definitely worth a read. Hit this link for the full interview.
Netflix’s latest blockbuster, Uncut Gems, follows the story of a deeply flawed and shady jewellery dealer, Howard Ratner, played by Hollywood funnyman Adam Sandler. It’s an … interesting film, that essentially involves Sandler yelling and screaming profanities A LOT in a pretty unconvincing manner. OK, I’m going to be brutally honest here, it’s actually a straight-up dumpster fire of a film. But there are some cool … and some not-so-cool watches featured in it, so enthusiasts may feel compelled to watch it. DON’T – it goes for two hours and it’s time that you’ll never get back. Good bloke that I am, I’ve taken one for the team and watched it, and made note of the watches, so you don’t have to. You’re welcome. Rolex Day-Date 36 Deary me, this one definitely falls into the not-so-cool category of wristwatches featured in the film. Unfortunately, however, the brutalisation of this solid 18k yellow gold Rolex Day-Date 36 is commonplace in the States, especially amongst the many independent jewellery dealers you’ll find in places like Miami, Manhattan and Los Angeles. Yes, what was once the quintessence of class is now anything but. Gone is the signature 18k yellow gold fluted bezel found on…
A few weeks ago, Nicholas Kenyon and I got into a bit of a row over whether it was a crime or indeed sublime to double wrist a mechanical wristwatch and an Apple Watch. Kenyon was firmly in the sublime camp, whereas I was, well … you can read my thoughts on the matter right here. Anyway, we posited the question to you, the enthusiasts, on our Facebook page, and judging from the comments, I well and truly trounced Kenyon on this particular occasion. So, sit back, relax and enjoy some of the finest, Zuckerberg-approved commentary on the interwebs about whether or not it’s OK to double wrist with a mechanical and Apple Watch: Nic wrote: “This is a grave crime against fashion.” Sam wrote: “Anyone that wears two watches is an a***-candle. Fitbits and fitness devices excepted.” Rhys wrote: “Jail time.” Quentin wrote: “Life, no possibility of parole.” Alex also wrote: “Crime, capital punishment.” Richard wrote: “That’s like wearing two pairs of pants, pick one for the occasion and move on.” Pierre wrote: “Because less is often more, a single watch is enough to me …” Michael wrote: “I did a couple of times, felt wrong and never again.”…
At the time of writing, the Coronavirus outbreak has already infected more than 70,500 people in China and resulted in 1770 deaths. It’s forced the quarantine of more than 50 million people in China and resulted in travel and visa restrictions to more than 70 countries. If that’s not bad enough, a new article in The New York Times suggests the disease might also plunge the watch industry into crisis. Here’s why … 1. Luxury retail worldwide is massively dependent on Chinese shoppers The article describes how, right now, the luxury shopping precincts of London, Paris, Dubai and Hong Kong are deserted. That’s because the influx of Chinese tourists has suddenly been cut off. This isn’t good news for watch brands, as the NYT explains. The investment bank Jefferies estimates that Chinese buyers accounted for 40 per cent of the 281 billion euros, or $US305 billion, spent on luxury goods globally last year, and drove 80 per cent of the past year’s sales growth in the sector, making them the fastest-growing luxury shopper demographic in the world. François-Henri Pinault is the chief executive of Kering, the international luxury group whose stable includes Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga as well…
Ben came into the Time+Tide offices to buy a NATO strap for his TAG Heuer Monaco. But the conversation quickly turned to the unusual Bulgari diver’s watch on his wrist. Here, Ben explains the backstory behind the purchase and why — despite it contradicting everything he normally likes in a watch — he absolutely loves it. Originally, this was my dad’s watch, but I think he only wore it twice in 10 years. Dad tends to like bigger pieces – he’s also got a Panerai Luminor and a TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5. With this watch, he’d always just say it was “too formal”. So I keep saying, “Let me buy this watch off you! Let me buy it off you!” My dad would always refuse. He’d say, “Ben, I bought this watch for 10 grand. I’m not going to sell it to you.” But I persisted. It’s strange because I don’t really like flashy watches. I probably wouldn’t wear an all-gold watch; in fact, I’d even avoid most two-tone watches. My dream watch is just a white dial Vacheron Constantin Overseas — no chronograph, just nice, plain, simple. But, for me, this watch just had the perfect amount of gold. It’s not…
It’s a good thing that wearing a watch is something that you can do regardless of the weather, because Australia is in the midst of an absolute doozy of a summer. Over the last few months devastating fires have ravaged the countryside, and now parts of the land are completely flooded. Regardless, I went out in search of timepieces at a very damp Sandown race track, about 25 kilometres south east of Melbourne, for the first round of the Australian GT Championship. Here’s what I found: And now to the watches: Riley’s (@roleyman) Longines Avigation BigEye Riley has been after a pilot’s watch for quite some time, and when this Longines Avigation BigEye came up at a reputable secondhand dealer late last week, he jumped at the opportunity. A former GPHG ‘Revival Watch Prize’ winner, the Avigation is a very cool watch. The dial is charmingly utilitarian, and harks back to the tool watches of the ’50s, and the 41mm stainless-steel, stepped case, domed sapphire crystal and pronounced chronograph pushers give it good wrist presence without being too overbearing – a problem with some pilot’s watches. Riley says his new Longines is going to take over weekend watch duties from…
Well, this is a bit different to a normal What Sealed The Deal … seeing as this Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph is actually my watch. I purchased it late last year after a particularly dogged haggling match that started with a seemingly innocuous Gumtree.com ad. Anyway, I’ll spare you the deets of the torrid exchange of words … let’s get started: When did you first see/hear about it? This particular Baume & Mercier Capeland Chronograph, Ref. MV045216, had been on my radar for quite some time. In fact, I remember when it was first unveiled thinking it was a handsome-looking timepiece. Fast forward a couple of years, and one of my closest mates purchased a very similar Capeland Chronograph S, Ref. M0A08113, which utilised the same ETA/Valjoux 7750 based Calibre BM 13750. It was such a good watch, and the heft and perceived quality of the timepiece left a lasting impression. Any story behind the purchase? Nothing too profound really. However, I will say that it’s definitely worth keeping an eye on the classifieds on Gumtree and eBay, because bargains do pop up from time to time, and when they do, you have to act … quickly. Oh, and always…
Few other bezel designs in recent memory have conjured more furore and admiration in the horological community than the so-called Batman bezel. Yes, the black and blue aesthetic has had everyone in a tizzy for years now, likely since Rolex unveiled their GMT-Master II Ref. 116710BLNR in 2013. Since then, the two colours have featured on the bezels of numerous watches from other manufacturers, keen to celebrate the oh-so-vogue colours and, let’s be honest, punch their ticket on the hype train. However, while motivations for creating such timepieces might trigger the odd cynical reaction, there are now many watches out there that rock the Bruce Wayne bravado just as well as the original Batman. On that note, here are five of the best black and blue timepieces on the market right now. Timex M79 Automatic OK, yes, this is a controversial one, mainly because despite being released just days ago, the new Timex M79 Automatic has already sold out and you can find the watches on eBay commanding a hefty premium … damn flippers! Anyway, ignoring the cheeky speculators, the new M79 Automatic is a good-looking watch, and if you can manage to get your hands on one for retail…
Hailing from Amsterdam, Batavi watches are a microbrand keen on paying homage to the famous tool watches of yesteryear, with a modern and novel twist. Hot on the heels of their handsome, fit-for-purpose dive watch, the Noordzee, the Dutch outfit has now set their sights on creating a GMT-equipped timepiece that aims to celebrate the faded bezels and heritage of some of the most iconic jet-setting timepieces from the ’60s and ’70s. Called the Batavi Kosmopoliet GMT, this is a sports watch that, on paper at least, has all the ingredients to be a compelling timepiece for enthusiasts. The watch’s dimensions, for example, mark it out as a veritable crowd-pleaser, thanks to a classically proportioned 39mm stainless steel case that measures a relatively inconsequential 12.5mm thick. The case also features polished, angular lugs that blend old world charm with contemporary flair, and, thanks to a screw-down crown and case back, 200 metres of water resistance. The dial and bezel options also appear to be quite arresting, and from launch there will be three different combinations available – the “Medina”, which utilises a sunburst black dial with faded blue and pink bezel; the “Amsterdam”, which features a sunburst navy blue dial…