Grand Seiko's big Black Ceramic Spring Drive Chronograph GMT (ref. SBGC221)
Editor’s note: Grand Seiko is typically seen as a restrained brand design-wise (dials excepted), but this 46mm chunk of titanium and ceramic proves that the brand has it in them to pull a modern sports chrono out of the bank when it matters … To be honest, when I first saw Grand Seiko’s contemporary-looking new modular ceramic Spring Drives, I was on the fence. I didn’t expect it, and wasn’t sure what to think. Of course the quality and technical precision were very much in evidence, but the aesthetics were well outside the norm for the brand. But over time the slick looks grew on me – Grand Seiko’s trademark crisp lines look great in black ceramic, and the sporty style was well-suited to the Spring Drive Chrono. So, in the lead up to Basel this year, I was looking forward to seeing where they’d take the nascent collection, and I was not disappointed. It’s fair to say the blue and gold limited edition requires a somewhat outgoing personality to pull off on a daily basis; this black version, while not quite stealthy given the 46.4mm case, is far more restrained on the wrist. I’d go so far as to say…
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The handful of BIG Rolex collectors meet-ups around the world represent the sanctum sanctorum of the vintage watch world, secretive affairs (which is sensible, given the dollar value of watches on the table) that offer a glimpse not just into the ultra-rarefied, and slightly odd, world of very high-end watch collecting, but also where the market is going. So this outsider’s perspective, from GQ’s Cam Wolf, is a very interesting take on the phenomenon, and the aforementioned World Economic Forum comparison is apt (a little too apt for my tastes). Perhaps ironically, a bunch of dudes obsessed with time-keeping devices show an inability to stay on schedule. It’s a good read, and you can read it here.
Watches with complications — like the chronograph, moonphase or, in this case, the GMT — are less about practical function and more about possibility. Sure, these watches are designed to excel on the road (or in the air for that matter), but for most wearers, that is an infrequent reality. Still, the possibility of far-off places is enough for many people to fall in love with the GMT complication. It’s also a complication that doesn’t have to break the bank, something these five watches can attest to. Grand Seiko SBGN003 You can make a strong case for this plucky Grand Seiko being one of the greatest GMTs period, regardless of price point. The style is classic sport, and the 39mm case (that isn’t too tall at 12.1mm) is super wearable. Truly versatile and it’s also rocking one of the coolest quartz (!) movements in the business, the mighty 9F. $4400 Montblanc Heritage GMT Here’s a watch that bucks the perception that a GMT has to be sporty. This handsome salmon-dialled fella puts the style in ‘travel in style’, with a 40mm case, gorgeous grey gator strap and that aforementioned dial, which is sophisticated and full of surprising textures. The blue…
Imagine, if you will, that you’re a watch fan in the 1990s or even early 2000s. Through some incredible new complication (I suspect Urwerk’s invention), you’re jumped forward in time to 2019. While some things remain the same, the changes are pretty incredible. Take, for example, this watch. It’s a one-off piece made by Zenith, designed by Phillips (in association with Bacs & Russo). Not only is the thought of an auction house designing a unique watch — which they’ll then sell (for charity) at their Geneva Watch Auction X next month — kind of bonkers, but it’s also amazing just how really, really good-looking it is. Let’s start with the dial. Sure, it’s blue and pretty vintage in a way befitting the mighty El Primero, but that doesn’t begin to express how special this piece is — because it’s made from a slender slice of lapis lazuli, a vivid blue stone flecked with golden inclusions. It’s patina of an entirely different kind and it looks awesome. Add to this the fact that the case is platinum — and you’ve got an even more compelling proposition. And Zenith CEO Julien Tornare says this will be the only platinum A386 ever made, so…
What are the most talked-about watches of 2019? Depends who you ask, obviously, but in a sizeable part of Planet Watch-Nut the answer is “luxury steel sports watch on integrated bracelet” – although not necessarily for good reasons (unless you count over-hype and over-pricing as good). During the past couple of weeks, in another part of watch-planet (which probably, inevitably, has some small degree of crossover with the first one), the most talked about is “the new Lange”. And now we can reveal that it is – drum roll – a luxury steel sports watch on an integrated bracelet. But, having spent some hands-on time with it, I will state with absolute certainty that the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is much more than “just” that. It’s a surprising watch in some ways – not really Lange and yet totally, indisputably Lange in every molecule. (Mind you, the “not really Lange” bit is only because we tend to think those Saxons make nothing but dressy, leather-strapped watches. Those of you who own Datographs on metal bracelets know better, of course.) That said, the Odysseus is quite particular, so will not be to everyone’s taste – and that’s just fine. The…
The story in a second: The Doxa SUB 1200T offers a huge amount of legacy, technical capability and exclusivity. Let’s press rewind for a second: the year is 1969, and Doxa S.A., a storied watchmaker established 80 years previously, in 1889, unveils the first publicly available dive watch in the world with a helium escape valve – the Doxa SUB 300T Conquistador. Developed in conjunction with the doyen of deep sea diving, Jacques-Yves Cousteau, the SUB 300T Conquistador became an instant must-have among the diving fraternity. And Cousteau believed in the product so resolutely that his company, U.S. Divers, became an official distributor for Doxa watches. The watchmaker’s now iconic orange dial became synonymous with deep-sea exploration, and, according to Cousteau, he favoured the arresting bright orange over any other colour due to its superior legibility in the murky depths of the ocean. Now, back in 2019, Doxa has created the Doxa SUB 1200T, a limited edition dive watch that pays homage to the eponymous SUB 300T Conquistador, while also introducing a host of new technological features and benefits. Time+Tide is proud to be the first ever official distributor for Doxa Watches in Australia and New Zealand, and as a…
Earlier this week, Felix took a closer look at a watch that has to be a frontrunner for nicest dress watch of the year, the blue dial Omega Trésor. While it’s certainly a good-looking watch, there are two other members of the Trésor family that might even beat it to the punch. The Omega Trésor has also been released in a yellow gold case, and a steel case with a diamond bezel, both with the same svelte case shape. Each piece brings its own character to the table, but these two options offer a little bit of something extra, with the respective warmth of the coloured precious metal case and a single row of diamonds. In the yellow gold example, the dial is cleanly refined without a date window to remind of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s quote: “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” In the steel example with a diamond bezel, you have a watch that offers less of a sense of restrained minimalism (which is only slightly oxymoronic), and more of a self-assured confidence that is an attractive reprieve from the typically conservative dress watch. An expression…
A little while ago, Andrew ran a series of overview videos on the various members of the IWC Pilot’s family. And, to be honest, it’s a story well worth telling, as the Pilot’s watch is one of the most recognisable and iconic wristwatch designs of the last 100 years. And while IWC don’t have a monopoly on the style, they’ve certainly made it their own and their various versions are supremely popular for the brand. So, (if you’ll pardon the odd visual pun) take another dive into the world of aviation watches as Andrew talks through the oversized crowns and legible markers of the Classic, Le Petit Prince, Spitfire and Top Gun lines. You won’t regret it. 
To say Ellen DeGeneres likes a timepiece or two is probably one of the larger understatements of the year. In fact, you’d have to be living under a rock not to be aware that the comedian and talk show host’s watch collection is probably among the very best of the Hollywood glitterati. There have been countless spots of DeGeneres sporting wrist-worn icons like the solid yellow gold Rolex GMT-Master II ref. 116718 with green dial, and the Patek Philippe ref. 5271 replete with diamond bezel and lugs. However, these watches pale in comparison to her latest purchase – a solid yellow gold Rolex Daytona ref. 6241. That’s right, Big Crown aficionados, it’s a Paul Newman Daytona, and a rather special one at that. Nicknamed the “John Player Special” dial, thanks to its colour scheme — which is reminiscent of cigarette manufacturers’ famed use of black and gold colours — this yellow gold timepiece is one of the rarest 6241s that money can buy. And there’s no denying it’s a great-looking timepiece, replete with its highly contrasted black dial, contrasting yellow gold sub-dials, black tachymeter bezel and yellow gold pump pushers. DeGeneres purchased the timepiece from Amsterdam-based watch dealer Jasper Lijfering, of Amsterdam…
There’s a tension and drama in Grand Seiko’s dial work that is … compelling. Colours, textures, patterns: Japan’s premier watchmaking brand offers it all. Two exciting new limited editions that demonstrate this point are SBGH269 and SBGR319. The former is an attention-seeking stunner, with an incredibly rich and vibrant red dial. The inspiration for this lush, textured dial is very Grand Seiko — the hues of autumn leaves in the Japanese mountains. SBGR319 is a bit of a different beast — a regular, rather than high-beat movement made for the Asian market, its dial is frosty white, bisected with seemingly irregular lines. It’s a subtler, but no less stunning offering. So, would you go with ice or fire? Grand Seiko SBGH269 and SBGR319 price and availability Grand Seiko SBGH269, limited to 900 pieces, $9000 AUD; SBGR319, limited to 350 pieces, $7500 AUD Made in partnership with Grand Seiko. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.