IN-DEPTH: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT
The story in a second: One of the best watch designs of recent times gets complicated. I know I’m not alone in thinking that the Octo Finissimo family is one of the most important commercial watch designs of the last decade or so. Sure, it’s based on an old Genta design, but the Octo has evolved so far under the careful ministrations of Bulgari’s design team so as to legitimately stand tall on its own merits. It’s a strong design, one that deigns to ape the past and provides a compelling argument for modernity and a versatile platform that looks great in numerous metals and treatments. And while the Octo exists in Bulgari’s ‘regular’ watches, the Octo Finissimo takes the design to its logical, breathtaking conclusion. And the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT proves that, and then some. The case There are two things that really struck me about the case of this watch. Firstly, just how well it works as a chronograph. Now, many watch designs look a little ordinary when that smooth profile has been marred by a few pushers popping out all over the place. Not so here. In fact, if it wasn’t for those registers on the…
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One of the most interesting watch ‘releases’ this year was Panerai’s series of experiential watches. Basically, the brand released a series of watches with a particular focus — diving, exploration, the armed forces — each with an associated ambassador or partner. One release was the regular version of the watch, and the second was a very exclusive limited edition, a twist on the watch that came with the opportunity to take part in an pretty exceptional money-can’t-buy experience. A few weeks ago, one of these experiences went down in Italy. Owners of the exclusive Marina Militare PAM961 (the less limited version is the PAM979, which you can check out below) spent a pretty serious 72 hours with the Italian Navy (AKA the Marina Militare). Of course, the Italian Navy link is one deeply seated in the lore and legend of Panerai, but the lucky few PAM961 wearers saw that link in a whole other light, putting their Panerai through the paces with the Italian Navy’s special forces, known as the Comsubin. From the vantage point of my desk chair, this experience looks pretty exhausting, and I’m sure it represented the merest fraction of what the actual Comsubin guys go through.…
Over the last few years, Seiko’s Presage collection has earned something of a reputation for excellence in enamel, with a quick succession of hot watches with fired dials. And while in the past these pieces have leant towards complexity, SJE075 and SJE077 simplify things a little, and serve as contrasting tributes to the original Seiko Laurel. Both watches feature plain dials, with a date at three, Breguet-style Arabic numerals, and well-sized 39.5mm steel case with a super-hard coating. Reference SJE075 is the white dial, which amps up the vintage look, with the distinctive red 12 and blued steel hands, while SJE077 serves some more low-key style, in midnight blue. Regardless of your dial preference, these Presage models would make an excellent dressy daily option. Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077 price Seiko Presage SJE075 and SJE077, steel on leather, $4700 AUD Made in partnership with Seiko. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
Most of the time we spend talking about Bulgari at the moment is dedicated to the gorgeous Octo, which, if I’m frank, makes perfect sense. But that’s far from the only arrow in Bulgari’s gem-set quiver. On the more feminine side of the fence there’s also the venerable (and not at all venomous) Serpenti, which saw a significant revision at Baselworld this year in the form of the Serpenti Seduttori, billed as a more everyday take on the serpentine icon. And while it’s the 33mm diamond-shaped head that is the focal point, for me the slinky bracelet is the centrepiece. The links are made to represent scales, and the effect is gorgeous. For this review we opted for the yellow gold model, because honestly, while pink gold is cool, it’s hard to beat the power and presence of yellow gold. The OG precious metal. Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori price Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori, yellow gold with diamonds, $40,900 AUD Made in partnership with Bulgari. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.
Celebrating five decades since its first automatic chronograph was released, Seiko has just unveiled this, the new Seiko Automatic Chronograph SRQ029J 50th Anniversary. First revealed in 1969, the original Seiko Automatic Chronograph featured the Japanese watchmaker’s historic Calibre 6139 movement, which utilised an integrated vertical clutch and column wheel chronograph architecture. 1969 was a competitive and interesting time for watchmakers, as it wasn’t just Seiko that was trying to bring an automatic chronograph to market in the last year of the Swinging Sixties. In fact, not only was an automatic chronograph joint venture between Heuer and Breitling on the precipice of release, but Zenith’s famed El Primero movement was also on the verge of being brought to market. Exciting times indeed for the chronograph. The 6139-equipped timepieces were presented in a number of different colour schemes, and all featured a day-date indicator and a single 30-minute sub-dial located at the 6 o’clock position on the sporty dial. What followed the 6139 was arguably one of Seiko’s most notable chronographs of all time, the Seiko 6138 “Panda”. In fact, the Calibre 6138 spawned a great many cult classics, including the “Kakume”, “Jumbo”, “Calculator” and “Bullhead”. The Panda, like all 6138-powered timepieces, featured two sub-dials: one displaying…
Some of the coolest and cultiest of vintage Seiko watches are their calibre 5719 monopusher chronographs, released to coincide with the Tokyo Olympics of 1964 (an event for which Seiko were the official timekeepers btw). These watches didn’t look much like a chronograph, with only a single seconds hand and a bidirectional bezel to track elapsed time. They were also (like all chronographs before 1969), manually wound affairs. And while they might have lacked the sort of bells and whistles we expect from a sporty chronograph today, you can’t deny that these angular pieces, with reserved ’60s good looks oozed style. Well, that was 55 years ago and Seiko has decided that the time is right for a reissue. Which brings us to the SRQ031J, which preserves the old-school charm of the original but adds in some of that modern functionality we expect in 2019. The Seiko Anniversary Chronograph 55th Anniversary SRQ031J (to give it its full name) is a large, fully specced automatic, limited to 1000 pieces. And for all that it’s larger than the OG version, it does a very good job of evoking its spirit. The silver dial is shimmery in the light under the sapphire crystal,…
Editor’s note: Who knew that a fully white ceramic open-worked watch would be one of this year’s freshest looks? No one, that’s who. But that’s OK, a surprise hit wouldn’t be a surprise if everyone saw it coming. Which is somewhat ironic as everyone will see you coming if you’re rocking this bad girl on the wrist … I’m not sure if Lou Reed would have liked this watch (I hope he would have), but I know I certainly do. The modern sports line that is the Defy is an increasing priority for Zenith – a key, future-facing pillar for the brand that is both distinctive and incredibly versatile. This new version, all 41mm of blinding white ceramic, proves this point. Do me a favour: take a minute and check out another version of this self same design. Now, look at the watch below. It’s a marked difference. With the matt ceramic case, open-worked dial (replete with that signature star motif) and textured white rubber strap, there’s little argument that this is a watch intended to make a statement. Legibility, for example, is not the aim of the game. Having said that, in the few minutes I wore this piece (a…
If you’ve ever picked up a glossy magazine or attended a major sporting event it should come as no surprise to learn that marketing is hugely significant in the world of watches. It’s also hugely expensive, competitive and, all-too-often, dull. From awkward posed photographs with A-list celebrities, to baffling brand ambassadors and the most tenuous of partnership tie-ins, for the average watch enthusiast the business of marketing these objects in which they invest so much passion can be confronting at best and alienating at worst. But obviously, it’s a strategy that works for many brands. Not all brands have the deep pockets and infrastructure to support this sort of sweeping approach to marketing, and instead they rely on a more surgical approach. H. Moser & Cie is one such brand. With a boutique approach and comparatively small production (these are ‘Very Rare’ watches, after all), Moser is proud to take a more personal approach with their marketing. Moser takes pride in personally knowing many of their end customers, and this one-on-one relationship between manufacturer and wearer leads to some interesting oppurtunities, like the Pioneer Tour. The Pioneer Tour, or #pioneertour for those on the ‘Gram, is a clever marketing activation…
The Snowflake looms large in the minds (and on the wrists) of Grand Seiko fans — the 10-year-old titanium watch is an undisputed champion, and deservedly so. But now there’s a phalanx of other Snowflakes in the family – the dial comes with gold highlights and even in dressier cases. But one Snowflake that stands out to us is the SBGA407. The most obvious standout is the dial, which is somewhat counterintuitive given how subtle it is. The texture is still that same Washi-paper-esque effect that gives that windswept snowdrift effect, but now it’s in a soft blue tint, like the heart of an iceberg. This colour, aside from adding novelty and a different flavour to the watch, also ups the contrast on the (as usual) exquisitely finished hands and hour markers, to create an effect that is, overall, deeply pleasing. What’s also pleasing is the case, here in steel — a more universally loved material than titanium. The lines of this case are also softer and dressier than the traditional SBGA211. The overall effect of case and dial is one of casual dressiness rather than dressy sportiness, if that makes sense. In this context the deep blue (Grand Seiko’s…
Have you ever had a real snake wrap itself around your wrist? If not, I urge you to do so. Really. It’s a wonderful sensation. If you have, you will know exactly what I mean. It feels amazingly sensuous. Gentle, warm, almost fluid. And those were pretty much my first impressions when I tried on the pink gold Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori at Baselworld earlier in the year. Visually, the design is a much more abstracted representation of a serpent than some of its predecessors (notably, the stunning enamel and gem-set versions of the 1960s – some of which I have been lucky enough to try on my wrist over the years). However, the way it feels on the wrist makes it the most snake-like of the countless variations of Serpenti that Bulgari has produced over the past seven decades. This watch really is all about the bracelet – in the best sense. The engineering that makes those hexagonal scales (links) feel as supple as a satin ribbon is testament to Bulgari’s 135-year heritage as a jeweller. Each link has been designed with a very subtly convex surface and angled cutaway around the edges. Barely perceptible details – but they are…