Basic instinct – the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775)
Editor’s note: Panerai has been on a real Submersible kick this year, along with the lighter Due models — but it’s hard to go past the watch that started it all. And this watch, the Panerai Luminor Base Logo 3 Days (PAM00775), really demonstrates why, as Sandra explains … Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most “Panerai” of all Panerais – the Luminor. Full-fat version, not the slimmed-down Due. A lot of the new PAM00775 is quintessential Luminor and quite a lot is not. There’s the chunky 44mm brushed steel case – as hefty on the wrist as a tool watch should be; a design so strong and confident that the crown guard alone has made Luminor a modern icon. Engraving on the closed caseback includes 100m – reference to the water-resistance. There’s the classic numerals font – the “closed 6 and 9” version – and the simple white printed dial, devoid of all decoration except the OP logo (in blue…
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Last night, Time+Tide, along with IWC and Kennedy Watches & Jewellery, hosted an intimate gathering at IWC’s Melbourne boutique. And even though it’s officially ticked over to spring, the evening was brisk, so the horological faithful were truly faithful. But once ensconced in the warm, well-lit space, the cold melted away in the presence of some serious watchmaking heat, in the form of IWC’s 2019 Pilot’s collection, which has been a real standout this year. After some initial opening words from Brand Director Florian Gutsmiedl, Andrew and I did a quick flyover (if you’ll pardon the pun) of the history of IWC’s Pilot’s watch, this year’s highlights (more on that in a second), and the impressive expedition that is The Silver Spitfire’s Longest Flight — which sees a single Spitfire, made in 1943, and two pilots making a 44,000-odd kilometre trip of more than 100 legs, covering off more than 30 countries, all supported by IWC. Sadly, the Silver Spitfire isn’t making it to Australia, but we’ve got the next best thing — the watches. I had the pleasure of wearing the new, time-only Top Gun in Ceratanium, an eminently wearable bit of uncomplicated kit that I deeply regretted taking…
We don’t hear too much about Alpina, but the new Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage Chronograph line is one of the more exciting vintage-style releases this year. This is why. Aside from having three equally appealing dial colour options, the monopusher movement and case geometry adopted by Alpina for this release is particularly noteworthy and makes for a refreshing change from the more common, round-case chronographs that dominate the scene. All three models boast wonderfully angular case profiles and lugs, the lines of which are reminiscent of a high-performance concept car (yes, I know we’re talking about a pilot’s chronograph, so what). However, the combination of polished and satin finishes helps temper some of the aggression of the case, bringing the design comfortably into classy-sporty territory. There’s a lot to like about the price, too. At 2895 euros (that’s over four-and-a-half grand in Aussie dollars at the time of writing), these new Alpinas are playing within a hyper-competitive price bracket. So aside from being very attractive, vintage-inspired pieces, what else is being offered? Encased within the stylish exterior is a new “in-house” AL-727 calibre: an automatic monopusher chronograph movement designed specifically for Alpina by La Joux-Perret. Owner by Citizen (which also…
Editor’s note: It’s no longer news that so-called smaller watches are back. And one of the leading lights in the movement is the Rado Captain Cook. The latest version, with a Champagne dial, is really something to celebrate. We had a hint of it a little while ago when Justin previewed the larger Captain Cook models, but now it’s official. The fan favourite Rado Captain Cook Automatic in 37mm is now offered in a limited edition Champagne (or to give its official, but less romantic, name — brown sunbrushed) dial. Dial aside, the details are unchanged: polished steel case, ceramic bezel insert in black, boxed sapphire crystal and automatic movement with 80 hours of juice. But this time around, there is a quite cool new addition, in the form of a handy leather travel case that includes space for the watch, and the two extra straps that come with it as standard. So, there’s the suede-like leather, a Milanese mesh with straight end pieces for that authentic diver vibe, as well as a stylish fabric strap. And, of course, a tool to change them. So, for a little watch, this Captain Cook sure packs a punch. It’s limited to 1962…
Unveiled at Baselworld earlier this year, the Chopard Mille Miglia 2019 Race Edition celebrates the Swiss watch brand’s illustrious 31-year relationship with Italy’s most storied road rally. Inspired by not just the event itself, but the classic automobiles that compete in the famous rally, the 2019 Race Edition represents the passion that Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele shares for classic automobiles. The striking 44mm case is available in either steel or two-tone steel and rose gold, and is paired with a motorsport-inspired perforated tan leather band with Chopard’s signature rubber tyre tread pattern lining. Like most watches born out of the crucible of motorsport, the Race Edition’s bezel is treated to a very handy tachymeter, which no doubt would have been used thoroughly by those taking part in this year’s Mille Miglia. And it wouldn’t be a watch for the racetrack without a chronograph complication, with the Race Edition’s three sub-dials depicting running seconds, a 30-minute counter and a 12-hour counter. The main dial of the watch is finished in a striking and masculine galvanic grey colour with a mesmerising concentric snail pattern that really makes the contrasting black sub-dials of the aforementioned 30-minute counter and 12-hour counter pop. Powering the Race Edition is a…
The move to put an Omega on James Bond’s wrist in GoldenEye stands as one of the greatest watch marketing moves in the history of watch marketing. Dimitrios was not the first, and certainly won’t be the last person to buy into the brand because of the fictional super spy. But even if it was Bond that pushed Dimitrios over the edge, the quality of the watch shouldn’t be dismissed. If the SMP was less of a watch, I’m pretty sure that Dimitrios wouldn’t be sitting in front of our camera, waxing lyrical about it. It’s also a watch that’s held up remarkably well over time (just like Brosnan TBH). It wears its age well, and can hold its own against the most recent generation of Seamaster 300M Divers. So, Dimitrios, here’s hoping you keep wearing it for another 25 years, and thanks for being a part of #everywatchtellsastory. Stay tuned for the next one.
Up until a few years ago, Rado’s Captain Cook was a rather obscure watch. A stylish skin diver from the middle of last century, a time when many brands (many of whom aren’t around these days) tried their hands at the genre. Rado made Captain Cook watches from 1962 to 1972. After then, the brand shifted its focus to other areas, like absolutely crushing it in the world of high-tech ceramics. But, driven by the powerful winds of the heritage-style revival, the Captain Cook surfaced again, at Baselworld 2017, and over the last few years has become well-regarded by critics and watch lovers alike. We’re going to have a look at seven key models in the modern Captain Cook line-up. Rado Captain Cook Automatic limited edition This little 37mm looker started it all. A limited edition of 1962 pieces, it was a surprise hit of Basel 2017 because it was such a faithful take on the 1962 original. Rado Captain Cook Automatic In addition to the LE, Rado also released a regular production version of the Captain Cook, which was practically identical. The only major differences were a simpler black dial, and a three-link steel bracelet. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook …
Editor’s note: While the Pilot might be IWC’s hero of the hour, the equally large but more classically inspired Portugieser is an equally important line. Felix finds out why … There’s a good reason the Portugieser collection is one of IWC’s most popular (in Australia at least). It’s a big, commanding watch that nevertheless possesses a grace and charm that belies its large size. This combination makes it one of the go-to statement watches. But did you know that it’s also got the weight of history behind it? A little while ago we chatted with IWC museum curator and general know-it-all David Seyffer for a quick history lesson on the mighty Portugieser.