The heavyweight – Patek Philippe's Nautilus Ref. 5740
Editor’s note: I’m hoping that we can mark 2019 down in the history books as peak Nautilus-mania, but there’s another part of my brain that isn’t quite so sure. Either way, your odds of walking into ye oldie AD, dropping down some fat stacks and walking out with this complicated beauty, the Patek Philippe’s Nautilus Ref. 5740, are veering heavily toward the ‘none’ on a spectrum of slim to none. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t try. Here’s Sandra’s review … One of the big surprises of Baselworld 2018 was Patek Philippe’s decision to add a grand complication model – specifically a perpetual calendar – to the Nautilus line. Or was it? Nautilus-with-complication is an old story (travel time, chronograph, annual calendar have all featured over the years) and the pre-Basel rumour mill was promoting the ‘perpetual’ idea pretty heavily. So when Patek unveiled the ref. 5740 there was a definite sense of “Surprise – what surprise?” Vital statistics The movement is one of Patek’s all-time greats: the ultra-thin self-winding calibre 240 Q – also found in the current collection in the Calatrava-cased ref. 5327. It’s essentially the same movement that was introduced in the landmark ref. 3940 in the mid-1980s…
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These days we’re pretty down with the tie-in between the watch industry and motorsports. Because while the association, which had its golden days in the age of Heuer et al, was originally born from necessity, nowadays its main function has to do with the marketing department. And while many brands have history in the area, the history is rarely as personal or intimate as it is at Laurent Ferrier. Laurent Ferrier (the watches) are well regarded high-end independent pieces with curvy lines and funky dials. And sure, Laurent Ferrier (the man) is a well regarded maker of high-end independent pieces, but he’s also a passionate motorsports racer, and one not without talent. In fact, in 1979 his team of plucky amateurs placed third at the Le Mans 24-hour race. Fun fact: Paul Newman came second. It’s stories like this that lie at the heart and soul of watchmaking, and Chris Hall over at QP Magazine has done an excellent job of capturing it. If you can’t hack the long read, at least enjoy this superb shot of the watch Ferrier made to celebrate his long love of racing. 
While collaborations between watch brands and car manufacturers are not a new phenomenon, it’s a much rarer phenomenon to meet a person who owns both the watch and its corresponding car. Once Zak had purchased his Mercedes AMG, he knew he needed to own the IWC Ingenieur AMG edition IW3725, a watch that is cool beyond its automotive inspiration. When did you first see/hear about it? I heard about it a few years ago, but I didn’t like it because of the curves in the case design. It eventually grew on me, and I was planning on saving up for one in steel, but I tried it on and it was super-heavy. Then I got a Mercedes AMG, and I figured I should get this one instead, which has a titanium bracelet and case and is much more comfortable. Any story behind the purchase? I got the AMG, so I also wanted to own the collaboration watch between Mercedes AMG and IWC, which has been going on for a long time. I also just love the Gérald Genta-designed Ingenieur. What was the deciding factor? I needed a watch because I was sick of wearing my Seiko everyday. But I didn’t…
Editor’s note: A little while back, old mate Becks did some promo videos with his watch brand of choice – Tudor. Turns out that Mr Beckham isn’t one to baby his timepieces, something we fully endorse. Kick on, Becks. Tudor shared two short videos with their premier ambassador, Mr David Beckham, that looked at two of his Tudor watches. And I’ve got to say, as far as showing what a brand is all about, they’re pretty hard to beat. The first video looks at the first Tudor watch Beckham owned and wore, a 1969 Snowflake Sub, which Beckham describes as an “old, messed up watch”. And while I wouldn’t go quite so far as to say it’s messed up, it has certainly lived a life, with a beautifully faded ghost bezel and some real age on the dial. What’s better than the watch, though, is Beckham’s attitude towards it: he appreciated the authenticity of old objects and, given that he wears it most days, “likes to think he’s added a scratch or two”. Now, there is absolutely no doubt that Beckham has added a scratch or two to his Tudor Black Bay Blue, a watch that he’s taken riding, and…
There’s no doubt that Bulgari like the GPHG. In 2017 they won the men’s category for their Octo Finissimo Automatic and the Tourbillon prize for the Finissimo Skeleton. A few years earlier, in 2014, they took home the Jewellery prize for their Diva High Jewellery Emeralds. Their odds are looking strong for the 2019 edition of the awards too, with five watches shortlisted. Now, it would be crazy for all five watches to win, but much like Katniss Everdeen, we hope the odds are forever in Bulgari’s favour. Mechanical Exception – Bulgari Octo Roma Grande Sonnerie Perpetual Calendar Let’s kick off with the big guy. I was pretty lucky to get a look at this incredible watch at Basel earlier in the year — given that it’s an LE of eight pieces. And given the fact that it packs in a ton of high-end complication (and the repeater sounds beautiful), the big surprise for me was the lightness – the carbon case weighs next to nothing. The same can’t be said for the price, which is a hefty 820,000 CHF. Ladies – Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Pink Gold and Diamonds I’m pretty open to wearing watches made with women in mind, and…
Johnny Dowell has been on the watch world’s radar for some time (heck, we interviewed him here), having worked with Urwerk and others on some pretty spectacular production pieces, as well as numerous custom jobs. But, perhaps unsurprisingly, Johnny’s career in engraving didn’t start with watches — he went through the far more traditional route of fine long gun engraving. And he didn’t mess around either, starting at the top of the tree with James Purdey & Sons (a Richemont property, for those into the corporate ownership of luxury brands). I’ve never made a big mistake on a gun, like where you slip across the entire surface and leave a huge scratch. That kind of thing just doesn’t happen, you wouldn’t be allowed to engrave a gun if that was a possibility. The kind of mistakes that will happen aren’t visible to the naked eye, or they are easily correctible. So, if you’ve ever wanted a solid insight into the world of high-end, super-cool artisanal crafts in 2019, this interview over on A Collected Man is worth a read.
Editor’s note: The watches of Montblanc have been getting better and better over the last few years. Newer, cleaner designs and a streamlined product, along with smart value propositions mean that it’s a brand that should be on your radar. Don’t believe us? Here are five 2019 releases you should get across. Since Davide Cerrato took the gig as Montblanc’s top watch guy, the brand’s timepiece offerings have been steadily ramping up, becoming more focused and more appealing. To my mind, Montblanc’s SIHH 2019 saw the brand in high gear, on the inside track and with the intensity of a winner. Two hero collections and a range of watches to appeal to a wide range of tastes. Here are our five picks. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Last year’s complicated two timer was already a good-looking beast of a watch, and this year the Geosphere’s gone green, making it even more Hulk-like. Montblanc 1858 Chronograph While it might not have the same incredible engine as its Minerva brethren, the 1858 Chronograph, with its bronze case and mossy green dial, is one undeniably attractive piece of kit. Montblanc Heritage Automatic While the 1858 family was all about the green, the freshly minted…
Reintroducing their debut 17.01 model, the Ming 17.06 Copper and Monolith boast major construction improvements over their predecessors, as well as making some subtle design tweaks. With two new models, let’s first take a look at the 17.06 Copper. Offering warm earthy tones set within a polished stainless steel case, the 17.06 Copper is easily the dressier, more ‘traditional’ looking of the two. When it comes to the level of texture and detail within the dial pattern, the 17.06 Copper has confidently entered territory previously dominated by the likes of Grand Seiko. The combination of a mirror finish polished case and the gentle lustre of the pinkish copper dial is wonderfully soothing, and not often seen outside of the highest echelons of haute horology. Finally, the gentle outward flick of the lugs is an elegant twist that brings some sharpness to balance out the round case. After reading so far, you might not be surprised to learn that the 17.06 Copper is a finalist in this year’s GPHG. Not bad for a brand that started only two years ago. Turning now to the 17.06 Monolith, we find something totally different. The matt black DLC bead blasted case gives the Monolith…
Editor’s note: Jaquet Droz is a brand with an increasing presence on our fair shores. And while they’re best known for their watches that exhibit a decent amount of both pomp and circumstance, there’s a lot to be said for their simpler offerings, which are still distinctive as all get-out. Don’t believe us? Check out the Astrale Grande Heure Minute … Jaquet Droz is a brand that has built its reputation on incredible automata and extravagant finishing. Fluttering birds, delicate miniature painting, and exquisite handcrafts are all par for the course for the brand. Which is why this watch, the Astrale Grande Heure Minute, was such a surprise. It’s no less beautiful, but much more spartan in its style. In fact, besides two hands, some tiny hour markers and some words, there’s hardly anything on this dial at all. This Astrale has been pared back to its most essential elements, and I’ve got to say the strength of the design holds up on its own. For me, it’s a completely different look for Jaquet Droz, and a good one for Australia. If Jaquet Droz is a brand you’ve never considered before, I’d suggest checking out the latest Astrale. It might…
Editor’s note: There’s something in the air at Grand Seiko. The brand is busting out new designs left, right and centre. It’s an exciting time to be a fan of Japan’s premier watchmaker. Case in point, the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003 … Grand Seiko has just announced its latest releases at Basel 2019 and, boy, does the Spring Drive — that unique trifecta of electronic, kinetic and magnetic energy — feature strongly. But not just the Spring Drives you know and love, with that arching power reserve at eight. No, in honour of the movement’s 20th anniversary, there are new manually wound versions, including this super-slender, refined and dressy option. Shown here in steel, it’s known as SBGY003 This is a Grand Seiko like you’ve never seen before. First, the case is so well-sized — 38.5mm across by 10.2mm thick is elegant, restrained proportion. With a simple case, with swooping lugs, a grippy crown (important for manual winding) and a black alligator strap, it’s a refined piece. It’s interesting to note that this is one of the few GS models where the lugs aren’t drilled. Of course, the dial is impressive, too: a radial starburst-like guillochage, reminiscent of the…