Look Mum, no hands – the best watches without hands in 2018
For as long as time has been indicated with hands on a dial, horologists have been hunting for different ways to communicate time. Contemporarily, this pursuit has taken some weird and wonderful forms, resulting in a few very clever feats of engineering to tell you what time it is. For those who are tired of tracking rotating spokes around a circle, who want something simpler (or more complex), these are the watches for you. Employing discs, screens, apertures and even revolving orbs, this is our shortlist of the best watches without hands from 2018. G-SHOCK GMWB5000D-1 35TH ANNIVERSARY SILVER ALL METAL MASTERPIECE Brainchild of Casio engineer Kikuo Ibe, the G-Shock DW-5000 was first introduced in 1983. And to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the legendarily tough resin-cased watch, the Japanese brand have introduced this version – which also happens to be the very first all stainless-steel 5000 series G-Shock. It supports all the standard functions, from a tough rectangular case and solar charging to Bluetooth connectivity. Ref No. GMWB5000D-1, Case size 49.3mm, Case material Steel, Movement Tough solar, Price $949 IWC TRIBUTE TO PALLWEBER EDITION “150 YEARS” Think “digital watch” and most minds instantly turn to thoughts of LED screens…
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Editor’s note: This is a throwback to the time we chatted to one of the best-looking blokes in Melbourne about his (then) new Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time. As Sam predicted, he didn’t think this would be a watch that would look dated as the years passed, and he was right — the classic proportions, the cathedral hands and warmth from the bronze bezel all contribute to a sense of timelessness. The Montblanc 1858 Collection was launched in 2015, and the heritage styling of the family of watches has endured to their latest releases at SIHH 2019, with bronze cues also remaining as a motif. Though he’s had it for a few years now, it’s hard to imagine that Montblanc isn’t still taking up a good portion of Sam’s wrist real estate. We don’t want to blow Sam’s cover, because My Watch Story subjects are guaranteed a high degree of anonymity. But let’s just say, Sam might not have ever seen you, but if you’re partial to a wide, wide range of clothing brands – most recently UNIQLO – you will probably have seen him. However, it’s not his photogenic features in the frame today, it’s his no less photo-friendly wrist…
An enamel dial elevates a watch to a different level, whether it comes in the form of a brightly coloured world map, a hyper-realistic image of a flower, a jewel-toned expanse of colour that seems to float above a textured base, or an ethereal grey-scale image of a lion – accurate to the last tuft of fur. Its beauty speaks volumes for the skill of its creator. Because enamel is really darned hard to do – let alone do well – no matter which enamel technique it is. (The examples I just listed are, respectively, cloisonné, miniature-painting, flinqué – or, in Japan, shippo – and grisaille. There are more.) But, counter-intuitively, one of the hardest of all to master is the most subtle, the least “wow, that obviously took incredible skill” technique. I’m talking about the plain white (or less often seen, black or a single colour) grand feu enamel dial. To quote that truism of design, simple things are always the hardest to do well. (Sub-text: if you make a mistake, there’s nowhere to hide). The mirror-perfect finish demanded of a plain grand feu enamel dial sends that simple-hard challenge off the scale. That has a lot to do…
There comes a time in the journey of every watch collector when the pursuit of the most complicated watch loses its shine, as you start to wonder if there is real meaning to be found by having a ninth tourbillon in your watch. You stop stressing if your chronograph has a vertical clutch, and wonder if you will remember the tide-indicator complication on your watch as you lie on your death bed. To yearn for something simpler, something that just tells you the time is perfectly natural, and surely in part a reason why designs that are classic and timeless are often more simple than complex. As the great man Antoine de Saint-Exupéry once said, “Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add but when there is nothing left to take away”, leading me nicely to compiling a list of the best two-handed watches of 2018. SWATCH SKIN IRONY “SKINSPRING” Spring is a time of new beginnings and warmer weather. And at only 5.8mm thick, Swatch have created the first metallic version of its slimmest watch. While there are eight brand-new different models available in the Skin Irony collection – all featuring different straps, dials, and case…
Editor’s note: Being first is important. It awards you the privilege of being looked back on as the original, the source of all that follows you, and an example of the maverick intent that got things started. For Grand Seiko, their prototypical watch was released in 1960, an expression of cleanly refined classicism that established the foundation of the brand as we know it today. Unpretentious, accurate, and a level of finishing that approaches perfection. In 2017 Grand Seiko decided to pay tribute to that first example made in the Suwa Seikosha factory, and produced a steadfast reissue that is as attractive as its ancestor. Produced in steel, yellow gold and platinum, these watches offer an interesting point of comparison to their modern watches, showing just how the Grand Seiko design language has evolved over the last half century. Grand Seiko reissue their first ever watch, plus a completely new re-interpretation Watch brands love nothing more than an anniversary. You might even be forgiven for thinking that marketing departments devote a substantial amount of energy to finding ever more obscure historical events, products or personages to commemorate with a new limited edition: 56 years since the release of our mildly popular…
Editor’s note: While #BlueWatch Monday has inspired 24,000+ posts on Instagram, I wanted to start the week with a watch in the same chromatic neighbourhood, specifically the Rolex Day-Date 40 with olive green dial. Without a doubt, this has to be one of the best-looking Day-Dates that Rolex has ever produced (yes, I said one of the best, Mirka), with the warmth of the olive green sunburst dial perfectly complementing the radiant Everose gold case and bracelet. The other detail Rolex nailed with this watch is the faceted Roman numerals, which catch and reflect the light in the same way the bezel does. A very special watch to celebrate the 60th Anniversary of this iconic timepiece. It’s no real surprise that Rolex — the world’s most reputable brand — is a class act. For me this was proven when I saw the beautiful new green-dialled Day-Date 40 on the first day of this year’s Baselworld fair. That class factor was cemented when I discovered the watch was available in stores on the very same day of its release. Not many brands could pull off a move that smooth. On the surface, this is a new variant of last year’s Day-Date 40…
We analyse a lot of watches on a daily basis. Being able to identify the difference between a sales pitch and a practical benefit to the end-user is something we take very seriously. We see swathes of new brands attempting to differentiate themselves from their peers through a variety of creative strategies on the regular. But perhaps the most common area of manipulation is price. It is common now to hear an identikit spiel from the majority of new brands looking for crowdfunding. It is so common to offer luxury at an accessible price that it’s about as effective as shouting into the wind if you’re trying to genuinely pique the interest of an informed watch aficionado. Collectors know exactly when the wool is being pulled over their eyes. How? If something is good value, what it actually costs is irrelevant to the sales pitch. Cost is most often used as a sales argument when there is a dearth of quality in the product itself. When the absolute cost of an item is front and centre in a marketing campaign, the word is more synonymous with “cheapness” than it is with “value”. What follows is a list of five well-priced chronographs.…
Editor’s note: I’ve got a real soft spot for the TAG Heuer Link — and indeed for integrated bracelets more generally. It’s such an evocative design for the brand, and one that is due for a serious comeback (if everything else ’90s is an indication). So, have another look at the cool, clear lines of the latest Link in Cam’s review … For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by the other big players in the TAG Heuer catalogue. At least that was until last year when it was relaunched in the women’s collection, and this year it’s the men’s turn. Now measuring 41mm, the case of the…
Editor’s note: In 2019 heritage reissues are NBD. But back in 2015 the rules of the game hadn’t yet been nailed down. One of the standouts back then (and indeed now) was Oris, with their Divers Sixty-Five — it was a near perfect take. And one worth taking a second look at … The story in a second: The Oris Divers Sixty-Five really could be a case study as to what a truly excellent vintage reissue should look like – all the elements are there, including classic good looks, fidelity to an historic model, contemporary convenience and credit card-friendly price. It’s an example of how the Swiss watch industry can, on occasion, be bailed up by David, the little guy. An obscure mid-’60s diver was not meant to be any kind of talking point at the 98-year-old Baselworld fair. But it was. And the small-sized 40mm watch had a big impact. It was one of the surprise hits, and one of the best vintage reissues of the fair. But if you think about it, we shouldn’t have been too surprised that this watch came from Oris. The independent brand certainly has the capacity to produce quality watches, and this one…
Fifty years ago, the automatic chronograph was born. Depending on which press release, it was the effort of either Zenith, Heuer (et al) or Seiko. The truth lies somewhere in the middle, and the former two brands have been busy celebrating in the traditional Swiss way (limited editions and, presumably, cheese). Seiko, though, has been quiet on the chronograph front, which is, at first glance, odd. Chris Hall, over at QP Magazine, clearly thought so, and put together this story on the matter. He goes into history, corporate politics, R&D and even — occasionally — watches. The real reason why there won’t be a watch to honour the breakthrough of 1969 is that for Seiko, the real breakthrough of 1969 wasn’t the 6139 Speed Timer. I won’t spoil the story here, but if you’re holding out for a celebratory Pogue (who isn’t?), click through to find out why you might be holding on for a good while longer …