HANDS-ON: The Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton
Architectural is a word that gets thrown around a lot in watch writing, and when you look at a watch like this Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton you can see why. The clear, expansive view provided allows the wearer to look down at a tiny, and industrious city, busily whirring away. And if we continue the architecture metaphor, this watch is a far cry from your day-to-day office block — this is more along the lines of monumental, futuristic architecture. Full of sweeping bridges and curves. It’s a watch with nowhere to hide — the wheels and gears, along with the large, oversized tourbillon cage at the bottom. The manually wound movement offers five days of power reserve, and is chock-full of 237 tiny, tiny pieces and is cased in a large case, 44mm wide by 53.7mm long. The case is clad in black, giving a stealthy, urban look. The Gravity is a stylish take on Franck Muller’s classic Curvex, a fresh update that certainly stands out. Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton price Franck Muller Gravity Skeleton, (V 45 T GRAVITY CS SQT), $227,600 Made in partnership with Franck Muller. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance…
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As the internet hits scale, connecting humanity in ways previously unthinkable, it is more important than ever to track more than one time zone. This used to be the specific domain of intercontinental pilots, diplomats and finance professionals, but no longer. Thankfully, watch brands are recognising this demand for watches that track multiple time zones, meaning there are more on the market than ever before. Here are the best GMT watches of 2018. G-SHOCK GMW-B5000TFG-9 35TH ANNIVERSARY GOLD ALL METAL MASTERPIECE The one that started it all 35 years ago has been reborn, with everything, from its case and caseback to its bracelet, made of stainless steel for the first time. G-Shock are celebrating with this limited edition version that’s coated in an all gold-coloured ion plating. Bluetooth connectivity allows the user to automatically set the local time or adjust world times and alarms from their phone. Ref No. GMW-B5000TFG-9, Case size 49.3mm, Case material Steel, Movement Tough solar, Price $1049 MING 17.03 The brainchild of international photographer and watch collector Ming Thein, the Ming 17.03 retains all the distinctive characteristics of the 2017-released 17.01. From its flared lugs and floating numerals to its 38mm nitrogen-filled titanium case…
Like all good stories filled with plot and intrigue, this one involves acquiring a pressure testing machine, and the decision to design a dive watch with it. Just like that, the Ming 18.01 Abyss Concept was born. In case you’re not familiar with Ming, they’re a relatively young brand that’s been making a lot of noise thanks to their attractive and distinctive designs. After taking possession of the pressure testing machine, the team at Ming put their heads together on what this watch was going to look like. They started work on an experimental prototype for a watch that could be used for diving, but did not rely on existing historical designs for dive watch construction. This is a bold undertaking, and one that causes you to pause and realise that the majority of dive watches on the market rely on waterproofing designs from the middle of last century. The result of this ambitious project is a series of 10 watches whose maximum depth rating is unknown, as every piece surpassed the limit of the pressure testing machine at 1250m (4100ft, 125 ATM). It’s safe to say that unless you’re planning a trip to the bottom of the Mariana Trench…
When you look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s core offerings from their Reverso and Master Collection lines it’s easy to see why the brand has something of a reputation for straight, sober watchmaking. But don’t forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre is also capable of absolute top-shelf high-complication, high-jewellery pieces like this (frankly astonishing) Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Zodiaque. So what are we looking at here? Well, first of all, you’re looking at a 42mm white gold case, not that you can see too much of it under all those baguette-cut diamonds gracing the bezel, lugs and even the crown. Under normal circumstances these diamonds would be enough to steal the show, but on this JLC they merely serve to frame the truly exceptional dial. The first thing you’ll notice is the tourbillon, which in addition to whirling in its cage, will make a slow march around the dial. And then, in addition to all this drama, there’s the astronomic calendar display, complementing the regular date, highlighted by means of a bright golden sun at the outer section of the dial. The aventurine dial base provides the perfect setting for this celestial action. The view from the rear is quite fine, too; the big bridges of…
When Montblanc’s 1858 collection burst onto the scene back in 2015 it heralded a bold new direction for the brand, adding a no-nonsense, outdoorsy sensibility to what had, until that point, been a fairly buttoned-up collection of watches. Since that initial drop, the 1858 has gone from strength to strength, and their 2019 slate of releases was particularly cohesive, and attractive. For me, the core collection can be summed up in three, thematically linked watches, all limited editions, that have taken the brand back to nature, with their earthy bronze cases and lush, dark green dials. There’s the 1858 Automatic LE, the 1858 Chronograph LE and the 1858 Geosphere LE. For all that these watches have different functions, they’re all bound by a strong, and 100 per cent on-trend look of bronze cases with dark green dials. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere LE Visually, this is the watch out of the three with the most going on, dial-wise. Fundamentally, it’s a dual time watch — the second zone is shown at nine, and there are big, dynamic maps of both hemispheres, which function as day/night indicators and even — if your geography is strong — a world time readout. It’s a big,…
Editor’s note: The other day we posted a bonkers video from @jackwongyf on our Instagram. It was a super ratty Rolex GMT-Master 1675 that had, underneath the grime and scratches, one heck of a surprise. Check it out. And then we remembered that Andy interviewed banker and self-described vintage watch hoarder Jack Wong a little while ago. So, we thought you might enjoy a perspective from the Jack Wong lyf. Hi Jack, what’s your daily watch and why? To be honest, I don’t have a daily watch, I usually pick something to go with the day’s mood. So then, what is in your collection and have you got a favourite? I do not focus on one brand, or one particular era, as I believe every brand and period has their best. Having said that, I am particularly fond of Longines, Omega, Seiko, Rolex and pieces from the ’30s, ’40s and ’60s. As for my favourite, that’s a tough question. Aesthetically, I love all my sector dial watches. Mechanically, I am still in awe of my FPJ tourbillon. In regards to finishing and innovation, I’d go for my Grand Seiko Spring Drive. Rarity wise, my Longines (Mushroom Pusher) 13ZN. You can probably…
Just the other day, Sandra was opining about the changing face of two-tone, and today this fine example of modern bi-colour watches hits the proverbial desk. The Record collection is Longines’ line of dressy daily wearers that offer a great entry point into some pretty serious mechanical watchmaking. And that’s because every single watch in the Record collection is certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, Switzerland’s chronometer testing institute. What this means is that when you slip on your Record, you know it’s keeping an average daily rate of between -4 and +6 seconds. On top of that, it’s tested in five positions and across three temperatures. The movements utilise a silicon balance spring. Long story short, it’s a watch you can rely on. It’s also a watch that looks good. The men’s model is a 40mm case in steel with a bezel and crown in thick pink gold cap, simple hands and batons on a sunray silver dial. The bracelet definitely ups the dressy factor — it’s a seven-row construction with brushed steel links interspersed with that pink gold cap, for a distinct work-all-day and party-all-night aesthetic. The women’s model follows the same fundamental form, but pared back…
The Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar 5740G was unveiled at Baselworld 2018 to much fanfare, as it marked the debut of the perpetual calendar complication in the iconic Gérald Genta-designed watch. It still retains its signature looks, with the embossed blue dial, integrated bracelet and 40mm size. It’s also got a pleasing degree of heft thanks to the white gold case. Since its release, it’s been a hot property, and we’ve spotted it on the wrist of three famous celebrities who have a taste for fine watchmaking (and serious wrist statements). The first celebrity quick out of the blocks to get his hands on the Ref 5740/1G was Mark Wahlberg. He was spotted with it on holiday in Barbados at the end of last year, wearing it while taking a splash in the ocean (see below). We have previously highlighted Wahlberg’s growing collection here. The next person is Canadian rapper Drake who was sporting the same timepiece while at a Toronto club watching the Toronto Raptors clinch the 2019 NBA Championship against the Golden State Warriors. The final celebrity is Trevor Noah, the South African born host of The Daily Show on Comedy Central. Noah has been wearing an assortment…
Oh ye of sensitive stomachs, look away now. In a story published in the Daily Mail (yeah, we know it’s dodge — but the headline was just too irresistible), your precious watch is home to a host of germs, bacteria and other assorted disgustingness. In research (and I suspect it wasn’t peer reviewed), it was found that on average a watch was three times dirtier than a toilet seat (which I guess is some sort of industry index for uncleanliness), with watches on bracelet coming up the cleanest, and dedicated sports watches like Fitbits coming up the dirtiest, at an impressive 8XTS (eight times dirtier than a toilet seat). The story then suggests some helpful tips on cleaning your watch, which I would take with a healthy grain of salt. But for all its sensationalism, this story does raise a genuine question — do you clean your watch? Read the full story over at the Daily Mail. And if you think a dirty watch is a problem, you should probably also have a look at cleaning your phone …
Editor’s note: Men don’t come much manlier than Tom Selleck’s Magnum, P.I. This guy had it all – the car, the ‘stache and, most importantly, the watch. Last year the FHH ran an excellent interview with the man himself and his watch. It’s awesome. All that’s left of my Magnum days are my Rolex, a couple of Hawaiian shirts and my moustache comb. Tom Selleck is Magnum, P.I. For Selleck it’s clearly a career-defining role, and for the rest of the world it’s a cultural touchpoint for Ferraris, aloha shirts and exceptional moustaches. In this short but informative interview with the FHH Journal, the 73-year-old actor talks about how most of Magnum is in the past (he didn’t get to keep a Ferrari), but one prop that has lived on beyond the set is the iconic Rolex GMT-Master. Selleck explains how it’s been a constant life companion that can handle the knocks and is just as well suited to his new life as an organic avocado rancher (who knew!), as well as the slightly more adventurous life of a television detective. Worth a read, even if moustaches and Hawaiian shirts aren’t your thing. Oh, and don’t get me started on…