The Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic offers a Sea-Dweller alternative at a third of the price
Ball’s Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST has been known for many things – the monobloc titanium case, an automatic helium escape valve built into the crown, lume you could light a nightclub with – but it’s fair to say it hasn’t always been fêted for handsome looks. Sure, last year’s DeepQUEST II had a personality to match its 1000m depth rating. The bezel was muscular to say the least. The crown mushroomed out in presumption that its owner would be wearing thick gloves. And the numerals at 6 and 12 were applied in an almost matchstick arrangement of “micro gas tubes” (sealed tritium gas) so bright you could tell the time from an ocean away. Even that uppercase in the name – DeepQUEST – muscles in. It was never a watch for hiding under the cuff, but for being seen over a diving suit. But now comes the Ball Engineer Hydrocarbon DeepQUEST Ceramic – with its ceramic bezel and simpler dial – and if the DeepQUEST II is a guy two weeks into his rotation on the oil rig, the DeepQUEST Ceramic is the same man a couple of days after getting home. Cleanshaven, nice haircut, fresh shirt and a splash of…
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Right now, Meghan Markle is the single most divisive woman in the Western World. Following her explosive interview on Oprah alongside Prince Harry, the Duchess of Sussex has become a wildly polarising figure. To her supporters, she’s emerged as a fearless advocate of positive change. Serena Williams, for example, described Meghan as “selfless” and “truly noble” after the Duchess revealed her racism claims against the royal family and described how the pressures of her role left her feeling suicidal. Critics like Piers Morgan meanwhile dismissed the Oprah interview as a “two-hour orgy of pious, self-indulgent, score-settling twaddle” in which Meghan cynically played both the mental health and race cards to deflect any criticism from herself. Yet aside from plunging the British monarchy into a wibbling state of crisis, Meghan is now inciting debate in the watch world, too. Media analysts and commentators all over the world have pored over the Oprah interview frame-by-frame with Meghan’s every word and gesture dissected for potential significance. Over the course of this exhaustive scrutiny, attention has inevitably turned to her wrists. During the interview, royal watchers noticed that on her left wrist, Meghan was wearing the diamond Cartier bracelet that once belonged to her…
Writing this story has proved to me the growing popularity of olive-green dials. What was meant to be a snappy round-up, quickly snowballed into a two-parter simply because there were far too many great options that we couldn’t bear to leave out. Perhaps that shouldn’t be surprising, either. Olive green, after all, is a colour that’s particularly well-suited for watch dials being at once distinctive but highly wearable, too. Check out the pieces in this second installment as we consider some green-eyed beauties from Patek Philipp, Hublot, TAG Heuer, IWC and Rolex. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5168G The Grail Grenade – I’m hereby claiming this nickname for Time+Tide (including hashtag rights) for what could be the ultimate slimline sports watch on a rubber strap. Patek Philippe’s olive dial is a calm, greyish green whose delicate grid pattern makes it look like, yes, a hand grenade framed by white gold. A rugged sports watch on rubber is enough of a contradictory reference for Patek Philippe already, but that etched pattern set against the broad bezel with its large expanse of brushed white gold only underlines the sweet juxtaposition. The way those striations in the brushwork play with the mirror polished bevel through…
Sometimes when I sit down on a Friday afternoon with a beverage of some description (today, an ‘Almond Negroni’ my colleague Matt claims he invented) to write the Friday Wind Down, I need to pause for a moment to consider the theme of the week. Not this week. This week, everywhere I look, it’s green, green, green. Green like the fields in The Sound of Music, green like voting for Adam Bandt (Melb reference, apols) or green like the Guinness on St Patrick’s Day in a faux Irish pub. In watchmaking, green is proving a welcome respite from the dominance of blue – and it’s becoming so prevalent, that even before the Audemars Piguet onslaught, we had crafted not one but two lists of olive watches. Green is in fact so prevalent, that we are able to compile very long lists of shades of green, not just the colour itself. We took a look at some of the best olive-green dial watches (in itself demonstrating the depth of the green options), with pieces from Longines, Seiko and Farer. Likewise overnight Audemars Piguet announced their own collection of green dial watches with five pieces in the Royal Oak collection and an…
Audemars Piguet is coming in hot for 2021, and AP is not pulling any punches. It is clear the plan is to usher in a new era of timepieces, and in particular the Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore collection is home to two brand new innovations: an all new in-house caliber and the first-ever interchangeable strap system. The Royal Oak Offshore is a fan favourite among the collecting community, and it is one of the more commonly spotted wristwatches on famed athletes around the world. It is fair to assume these new watches will have fans of the brand worldwide lining up to reserve one for their wrists and collection. The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Offshore Diver / 42 mm Collection Each of the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Divers are 42mm in diameter and cased in fan-favourite stainless steel. The iconic octagonal case profile takes on its most robust form, with a ceramic screw-down crown shouldered by crown guards securing the watch to depths up to 300 metres. To control the stepped inner bezel timing ring, a second ceramic screw-down crown can be found at the 10′ position. While the toughest form of the Royal Oak,…
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak models are among the most coveted watches in the entire world. Owners of the various references already make other collectors green with envy, but the new 2021 Royal Oak Collection will make onlookers envy the green. Somewhere Conor McGregor’s #NewWatchAlert spidey sense just started tingling, because this new collection of five watches (four of which are limited editions) has definitively locked in green as the color of 2021. While all the watches have green dials, Audemars Piguet has done a great job of offering a wide spectrum of case metals – ranging from lightweight titanium all the way to hefty noble platinum. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin / 39 mm 15202PT.OO.1240PT.01 The Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin has always had a special place in the hearts and minds of collectors due to the purity of its dimensions and aesthetic. Its design harkens all the way back to the original Royal Oak that Gerald Genta disrupted the industry with in 1972. However, this new model could very well be the end of an era for the Royal Oak Jumbo, as during our call with the AP Social club to discuss the upcoming novelties, Francois-Henry Bennahmias and Michael…
Limited editions of Blancpain divers are hot commodities in today’s marketplace, so when they are announced it’s best to act fast if you’re looking to secure one for your collection. They also have the added benefit of speaking to a wider spectrum of wrists, taking on a smaller 40.3mm case diameter reserved for limited editions. The Blancpain Tribute to Fifty Fathoms No Rad Limited Edition is a tribute to the brand’s famed Fifty Fathoms that proudly boasted the fact that it did not use any radioactive compounds to increase the visibility of the diver. Context The Original Fifty Fathoms No Rad was born from the realisation that radioactive compounds such as radium could be very harmful to the health of those who interacted with the material. Many military watches of the era utilised radium and, as the health concerns arose, these organisations were looking for watches that could provide legibility without exposure to dangerous materials. Blancpain, ahead of the curve, introduced the Fifty Fathoms No Rad in the mid 1960s as a clear assurance that no harmful radioactive compounds were used in the watch. According to Blancpain, “In the early 1960s, radium – a radioactive element used in watchmaking for…
Over the last decade, the watch media has played an increasingly important, and intertwined, part in the watch industry. From increased coverage of newly released watches to publications becoming authorised retailers for brands, the landscape has shifted forever. And out of this paradigm shift, one of the coolest things to be born is the watch media collaboration watch. While it’s fair to debate how broad the definition of media collaboration watch might be (the Time Zone forum produced a limited edition watch with RGM back in 1999), the trend can be traced back as seriously gaining momentum in 2015 with the Hodinkee collaboration with MB&F. Even Time+Tide joined the party at the end of last year with our Bamford London x Time+Tide GMT1. So with more than half a decade in the rear window, enough time has passed to consider the question: what are the best watch media collaborations? Nick Kenyon – IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36mm Special Edition for The Rake and Revolution While I’ll admit I had a very soft spot for the Fratello Speedmaster “Speedy Tuesday” Limited Edition, there is something incredibly enchanting about this three-handed IWC. I think it’s the fact that, while there are lots of heritage reissues…
The DOXA Sub 300 is a strong diver’s watch with vintage leanings. But the Sub 300 Aqualung US Divers Limited Edition in carbon fibre offers a completely different proposition. Essentially, it refashions the piece with a modern edge – the sharp and moody presence of the industrial carbon fibre turning up the emphasis on the Sub 300 as a pure tool watch, while at the same time highlighting the vivid dial. DOXA is now pairing all six references in the Sub 300 range with the inviting tactility of that new carbon fibre case. Don’t be fooled, however, by the bright colours and feather-light weight. This watch remains a serious diver powered by a COSC-certified ETA 2824-2 movement that reminds us that under the surface, every minute counts. First Impressions When we first laid our eyes on this new range, the bright dials seem even more prominent framed by the matte, silky darkness. This carbon fibre composite has an industrial vibe with silvery flecks of visible fibre bringing an even stronger presence to the Sub 300, not to mention that extraordinary lightness (it weighs just 87g). Retaining the distinctive tonneau shape, the 13.4mm thickness is svelte for such a rugged tool.…
Our weekly Micro Mondays feature has become a big success since its inception last year. The featured pieces often appeal because of their more accessible approach to watchmaking with a delightful blend of superb value and quirky designs that just wouldn’t happen in a listed company with a large design department. Purely on the basis of online traffic, these are the 10 most popular microbrands on Time+Tide from last year – a mix of new offerings and others that are fast evolving from fledgling independents into larger scale productions. 10. Kurono Japanese watchmaking artisan Hajime Asaoka makes stunning bespoke watches. The only problem: the starting price is around $40,000. Kurono is the more accessible side of Asaoka-san’s art deco splendour. The production is managed by Precision Watch Tokyo Co. Ltd, while the dial and caseback – signed Bunkyō Tokyo – refers to the special ward in Tokyo where Hajime’s design studio is located. As a microbrand Kurono is well-established with two new models launched this year, including a new version of their art deco classic bicompax chronograph. Unfortunately, and as usual, it instantly sold out based on a well-organised tier system for orders. And yes, they are already rising in…