LIST: 3 of the best Bulgari watches from Basel 2019
Over at Bulgari, the reign of the Octo Finissimo continues to flourish. At Baselworld 2019 the ultra-thin heavyweight collection gained two strong new members. And over on the women’s side, there’s a new golden serpent to adore. The hero of Bulgari’s set piece is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, a very smart addition (in both the style and engineering sense). It’s a completely new movement, and full of nice engineering details. It also boasts a lot of user-focused details, like that GMT. It’s a really useful combination of complications wrapped up in a wafer-thin package. The yin to the Chronograph’s yang is another, darker take on the Octo Finissimo — in fact, an entirely black take. This new ceramic version once again transforms the feel of the watch. Bonus points for opting for a sleek matt finish, and even a fully ceramic folding clasp. Finally, the Serpenti Seduttori, a woman’s watch that’s intended to be a more everyday alternative to the Serpenti Tubogas. The bracelet on this piece is lovely, and more than lives up to the Serpenti name. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Ceramic Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori
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A little while ago, I had a very good day at work. That’s because my job involved spending some quality time with three exceptional Vacheron Constantin watches, which just happened to be in Melbourne. The first was the Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin — a very classic (and slender) execution. Then there was the gorgeous Traditionnelle Tourbillon, with a dial dominated by a mesmerising tourbillon that I could easily get lost in. And finally, the Traditionnelle Grandes Complication Equation of Time – a watch that really shows just what sort of artistic engineering marvels Vacheron Constantin is capable of. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Grandes Complication Equation of Time Vacheron Constantin Australian pricing and availability Patrimony Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, $120,000 Traditionnelle Tourbillon, $194,000 Traditionnelle Grandes Complication Equation of Time, $645,000 Available at Monards.
Let’s face it, the fair has been a bit of a mixed bag. There’s been a range of good, bad, and downright ugly watches lurking in these halls. I never expect to walk in the door and love everything, but as with most years I’ve certainly found a few odds and ends that grabbed my attention. The surprising element to this is where some of the watches are from — in the case of the three watches below we’re talking about Patek. For years I’ve certainly had an appreciation for the brand, their technical prowess, their devout following and their ability to fuel a level of demand that borders on the astonishing. That said, at a personal level their watches seldom speak to me to a point of a desire to own, with the odd exception. However, I found this trio of watches from the brand’s Basel 2019 releases caught my attention far more than in previous years. Patek Philippe Ref. 5520P Alarm Travel Time The latest evolution of Patek’s pilot-inspired spin on the Calatrava is poised to be another hot-button topic among many, especially those more enamoured with the brand’s more traditional offerings. I, on the other hand, warmed up…
Bronze — that gold-toned alloy that only gets better with age — has continued its domination of the watch world, and the latest brand to be converted is TAG Heuer, who this week released two bronze versions of their brand new three-handed Autavia. Structurally, it’s the same as the steel Autavias — 42mm across, powered by a Calibre 5 movement running the impressive new Isograph spring, and worn with straps that utilise a smart new quick-change system. But on the aesthetic front, the warm metal, shiny ceramic bezel, smoky green dial, and aged ivory luminous material create a compelling synergy that’s exemplary of the current retro-modern trend. But what I really want to know is – will we end up seeing more bronze in the TAG Heuer assortment in the near future? It could work. I guess that’s a somewhat long-winded way of saying that this watch just looks really great on the wrist. 
In the weeks and days leading up to Basel, the tension, speculation and near-hysteria around Rolex’s impending releases is palpable, and this year was no different. And while the popular predictions in the lead-up to Baselworld 2019 were the usual mix of near misses and safe guesses, that didn’t stop the Rolex watches — especially the sports watches — from being the most talked-about pieces of the fair. The Yacht-Master on Oysterflex has, since its debut in 2015, been one of the most distinctively modern models, with its matt cerachrom bezel and understated bracelet. This year saw two significant changes to the model. Firstly, it was offered in white gold, which only adds to the under-the-radar appearance; secondly, it’s bigger than ever, with a 42mm case — both these elements have been generally well received in the Halls. And then there’s the new version of the GMT-Master BLNR. It’s packing the new 3285 calibre, which means a new case. It’s also got a new Jubilee strap, giving the Batman a whole new look. But the real story here is the news that all steel GMT-Masters are only available on Jubilee, and that all GMT-Masters with a single colour bezel (i.e.…
TAG Heuer’s Basel 2019 collection had a particularly clear focus, and that focus was Autavia. It’s a watch inspired by TAG Heuer’s enviable heritage — Autavia is a combination of automotive and aviation, and dates back to when Heuer was making cockpit timers in the 1930s. This latest version is a clear nod to the past, without being a fully blown reissue. It’s got details to boot too, like Arabic numerals made from solid blocks of luminous material, a series in subtle rich colours that, thanks to their texture and airbrushed finish, are eye-catching and interesting. The insides are also notable, thanks to TAG Heuer’s brand new Isograph technology — the hairspring is made using the proprietary carbon process the brand first showed us in January on the Tourbillon Nanograph. That watch was on hand, too (and did not disappoint the second time around). For women, there was a bunch of new Carreras on offer — and it’s easy to see the appeal of this crisp design paired with a shimmering mother-of-pearl dial. And finally, there’s the Modular Connected Golf Edition, made for people who care about their putting game. TAG Heuer Autavia TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph…
There’s a unifying theme to Grand Seiko’s 2019 collection – and no, it’s not the exquisite dials or case work, though those are all very much in evidence. No, this year it’s all about the mighty Spring Drive, a movement (which we’ve explained here) that is unique to Grand Seiko, and appropriately enough, 20 years old. There’s a new take on the most complicated Spring Drive of all, the 9R96, with a GMT and Chronograph. This year we see it like never before — in a watch that’s a suitably plus-sized tribute to Japan’s most famous monster, Godzilla. The SBGC231G is a truly gargantuan titanium watch that is about as statement watch as they come. No, the real evolution of the Spring Drive family is a new movement, the 9S63, a manually wound offering that sees small seconds and power reserve neatly balanced across the dial, which — thanks to that superb dial execution — results in a watch that’s a joy to look at. And thanks to the slimmer case profile (11.6mm), the watch is a joy on the wrist, too — the domed sapphire and rounded bezel certainly help in this regard. Grand Seiko’s offering has been increasingly…
Tudor’s Baselworld 2019 collection is always a hotly anticipated affair, and this year the Shield offered some stylish new takes on existing models, and a distinctive diver no one saw coming. Tudor Black Bay P01 One of the more interesting, unexpected and downright surprising releases of Baselworld 2019 has to be the Tudor Black Bay P01. To paraphrase that guy from Star Trek: it’s a Black Bay, Jim — but not as we know it. Based on a prototype watch developed in the late 1960s with the US Navy in mind, this Black Bay is pure tool watch. The party trick here is that the bi-directional bezel (which is graduated for hours — something I’ve been wanting on a Black Bay since forever) is locked in place via the ingenious mobile end link at 12. And for all its blocky shape, this 42mm works really well on the wrist. 3750 CHF Tudor Black Bay Bronze The Black Bay Bronze is dead! Long live the Black Bay Bronze! Well, by that I mean the original brown-dialled bronze Black Bay has been removed from the catalogue, replaced by this handsome fellow. All details are unchanged, except for the dial, which is now a shaded…
It’s no secret that the Octo Finissimo has been a watch that’s kick-started the heart of Bulgari’s recent string of critical hits. And now the collection has — in addition to the core time-only model, minute repeaters and tourbillons — a chronograph. And not just any chronograph, the world’s thinnest. This watch took Bulgari almost three years to develop (which, in watch terms, is rather quick), and the movement is a slim 3.3mm, shredding a fair bit of width off the previous thinnest – a 4.65mm manually wound movement from Piaget. This movement isn’t just thin — it’s got a peripheral winding rotor and a nicely finished movement. It’s also got a second time zone display at three, which is set in sync with the main hands. Altering local time is a cinch, as hitting the pusher at nine advances the hour hand in one-hour increments. Design-wise, not too much has changed. We’re still looking at that classic sandblasted titanium case — only now with a bit more going on with the dial. I really love just how integrated the faceted pushers are to the case. From a distance you’d struggle to know more. It wears just as well as you’d expect on…
In case you were unaware (how is that rock you’ve been living under?), Baselworld 2019 is nearly upon us. So, while the rest of the team are currently en route to Basel, I’ve planted myself firmly behind each one of my digital detective devices and taken off in search of any and all clues as to what Tudor may soon have in store for us. Putting together this quick list of Tudor’s teasers and making a few speculations as to what I think each one may mean. Editor’s note: When I say speculations, these are absolutely nothing more than my own theories. However, I have tried to make my guesses as educated as possible. The triangle hour marker This was the first teaser posted by Tudor this year, and it seems many (myself included) were quick to guess that Tudor will re-release its Submariner. While it’s certainly a good guess, there isn’t exactly a lot to go on, other than the fact that it’s a triangle-shaped hour marker at what looks to be 9 o’clock. You see, in 1989 – exactly 30 years ago – Tudor revised its Submariner, replacing its Snowflake hands with Mercedes-style hands and switching out its…