LIST: Cameron Wong’s 5 favourite stories of 2018
What a year it’s been! I attended my first Baselworld, reviewed more watches than ever, and wrote more words about these tiny mechanical machines than I had in all the years before combined. So, when Felix asked me to pick my favourite stories of 2018, I had a lot to reflect on. Lucky for me, though, there were a few that stood out. Here are five of my faves. LIST: 11 of the greatest Grand Seikos – and why they matter Totes don’t mean to seem egotistical, as this list was one that I actually penned, but honestly, any day spent researching and writing about Grand Seiko is a day well spent in my books. I still can’t believe I get paid to write about this stuff. INSIGHT: The value in time – what separates fine from very fine watchmaking Some of the words we use when we write our reviews aren’t always self-explanatory, and if you’re only just getting into watches, things can get a little confusing — and fast! Here, Justin makes it easier and explains some of the finer points in watchmaking while dropping a knowledge-bomb on just what separates the best from the rest. I’m not ashamed…
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Wow, 2018 really got away from us. I mean, I can’t believe we’re just moments away from wrapping up one hell of a year. In between the expected December chaos, I spotted a couple of nice watches. Here they are. Irwin’s Rolex GMT-Master II ‘Coke’ Irwin’s recently acquired Rolex GMT-Master reference 16710 from the late ’90s. Irwin always had a keen eye for vintage Rolex and is always on the hunt for the next piece. After letting a GMT-Master go to a family member many years ago, he’s always felt the urge to add one back into his collection. Luckily for him, this particular piece (with the full set) came up for sale locally — and here we are. Bernard’s IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar Edition ‘Antoine de Saint Exupéry’ Melbourne locals know Bernard (GM of Melbourne retailer Monards) for his supercars, which we often spot outside the office, covered in the livery of one of his watch brands. On this particular occasion, Bernard was sporting his IWC Big Pilot Annual Calendar Edition ‘Antoine de Saint Exupéry’, in red gold. This cult classic has quite the presence in the regular stainless steel edition, and even more in red gold. It’s always…
One of the more intriguing releases from Tudor this year — and one that didn’t get quite the attention it otherwise would have, thanks to the show-stealing GMT — was the classically styled 1926. Taking its name from the year the Tudor name was registered, it also owes some design cues to this golden era of style. Take, for example, the finely textured waffle dial, with the blued Arabic numerals interspersed with arrow-head markers. Lovely, but also wearable, and entirely wearable nearly 100 years later. The case is well-sized, the movement rock solid, and the solidly made bracelet adds a nice dash of slash. It all means you’ve got a watch that looks the business, no matter what the business is. Tudor 1926 Australian pricing Tudor 1926, white dial with blue numerals, $2210
The blacked-out Carbon capsule collection takes some sporty TAG Heuer staples and remixes them with carbon, in its various forms — there’s the Bamford Monaco, the colour-popping Aquaracer, and this guy, the Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon. Now, the familiar case on this Carrera isn’t all carbon; only the lugs and bezel are made from the lightweight, high-tech composite, more than enough to give the look (and the feel) of the material, while the central case elements are made from more conventional steel (albeit blacked-out). The other nifty thing about this watch is the Heuer 02 movement, which is a thoroughly modern model of a modern integrated chronograph. All told, the carbon additions to this boutique-only edition make for an interesting, and attractive, package. TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon Australian pricing and availability TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Carbon, exclusive to TAG Heuer boutiques, $10,100
A few days ago, we introduced you to the opulent curves of Franck Muller’s Cintrée Curvex Grande Date, a curvaceously cased complicated chronograph with a big date and semi-skeletonised dial. Well, today we’ve got something just as Grande in the date department: the Franck Muller Vanguard Grande Date, with a dial that’s a little more openworked, and a case that’s still plenty curvy. Vanguard by both name and nature, Franck Muller’s Vanguard collection extends on those oh-so-well-rounded proportions of the brand’s famed Cintrée Curvex case design, with bolder styling, larger dimensions and equally as strong curves. The tonneau-shaped case of this particular Vanguard Grande Date measures 44mm across by 53.7mm from top to bottom, with a thickness of 12.8mm, and is available in a variety of materials, from stainless-steel or titanium, to carbon or 18k rose gold (as pictured here). A larger case also means more room for the things that delight our eyes, with the inner architecture of the automatic in-house manufactured movement put on full display through the openworked dial on the front and a sapphire crystal on the back. It is only obscured by large lume-filled hour markers and semi-skeletonised hands, and the outer rings of small…
At its heart, Panerai is about diving. The brand was born under the waves and continues to call the underwater world home. Which is why we found ourselves, several weeks ago, watching — slightly nervously — as a brace of Panerai Submersibles dipped into a giant tank full of rays, sharks and other (less threatening) fish at the Melbourne Aquarium. Thankfully, the watches were attached to the wrists of professional divers, who put them through their paces, leaving us in the position to debate the various merits of three stars in the Submersible line-up: the Submersible Carbotech, the Submersible in 42mm stainless steel, and the Submersible BMG-Tech. And while these three watches are all rock-solid, purpose-built dive watches, they also show off Panerai’s expertise when it comes to materials science. The Carbotech, named for the carbon composite it’s made from, is aggressive-looking, light-weight and downright cool. The 42mm steel model is classic in its construction and design. Finally, the BMG-Tech offers a bit of both: traditional Panerai styling with decidedly non-traditional material science in the form of the amorphous alloy case. For all that the superficial look is the same, these three watches are decidedly different.
There are a lot of things I love about Hublot, and I’ve got to say, this watch manages to cram pretty much all of them (barring ceramic) into one awesome, 45mm package. It’s the Big Bang Tourbillon Power Reserve 5 Days Sapphire Rainbow, and it does pretty much what it says on the tin. Let’s start with the case. Hublot has been playing with (and seriously democratising) ultra-hard, ultra-slick and ultra-cool synthetic sapphire cases since 2016, and it’s become something of a staple in their higher-end limited editions. For all its transparency, this 45mm wide and 14.25mm thick case has stacks of presence, providing an almost unbearably crisp, sharp silhouette. The incredible wrist presence provides an amazing juxtaposition with the transparent nature of the material. But in a twist that’s exclusive to the Australian and Japanese markets, Hublot has brought the rainbow heat to the equation, with a bezel stunningly set with 48 baguette-cut stones, arranged in a vivid, cascading rainbow. Ordinarily, the sapphire and rainbow combination would have had me swooning, but the movement takes it to the next level. It’s not a chronograph, but it is a tourbillon — a manually wound one with a hefty five days of…
At first glance, you could be forgiven for thinking that this is a 47mm Submersible much like any other. On second, or perhaps third glance, the truth becomes more apparent. This is a Panerai unlike any other, and that difference is thanks to the case, the BMG in BMG-Tech. BMG is short for Bulk Metallic Glass, and it’s what the case is made out of. When I learned this, it took a while to get my head around it. Glass is in the name, but this case is far from fragile. BMG is a glass-like alloy of zirconium, copper, aluminium, titanium and nickel. These components are formed at high pressure and high temperature and then rapidly cooled to prevent crystallisation, meaning that the atoms are randomly aligned, which ensures the material is very strong and durable. What this wizardry/metallurgy means is that Bulk Metallic Glass is lighter than steel, harder, corrosion resistant and antimagnetic. On a purpose-built dive watch of this size, these are pretty great attributes to have. But the case isn’t the only winsome charm this Submersible possesses. The dial is a rich, vivid blue, which moves from navy to a near-azure hue, depending on the light. It’s…
When it comes to materials, it’s hard to beat Rado. The brand is a master of innovative materials. They pioneered ultra hard metals and ceramics, and continue to push the realms of the possible. The latest is Ceramos, an alloy of ceramic and metal that offers the best of both worlds — the lightness and scratch-resistance of ceramic, paired with the finish and lustre of metal. Here they’ve chosen to deploy Ceramos on the relatively conservative DiaMaster Thinline, a classic two-hander with a date. So, if you like your tradition with a healthy dose of technical, check out the Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos. Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos Australian pricing Rado DiaMaster Thinline Ceramos, $3025.
A shy, sheepish, shrinking violet is not how I would describe this particular version of Franck Muller’s Cintrée Curvex Grande Date. But then again, it’s not a piece that was designed to sit quietly in a corner. Instead, it’s a showcase of all that defines Franck Muller’s most iconic collection, from its wonderfully proportioned case curves to whimsical numeral designs and complicated movements. It’s actually best if we don’t leave all the describing to mere words, either. The old saying that a picture is worth a thousand words is no truer than right here, where it’s multiplied tenfold by the elegantly rounded curves of the Cintrée Curvex case and its dazzling array of diamonds. Measuring 39.5mm across by 55.3mm from top to bottom, the sweeping lines of the manufacturer’s most recognisable case form can also be had sans diamonds (for those more reserved folk) – in stainless-steel, and 18k rose or white gold. And a seamlessly integrated sapphire crystal continues the case’s contours and domes over the top of a semi-openworked dial, with a window that cuts through to the collection’s more technical side. Peeking through the familiar sunray guilloché-patterned white dial, with its instantly recognisable Arabic numerals, is a…