HANDS-ON: Hoisting the high spirits flag with the Franck Muller Color Dreams
My art deco admiration and monochromer habits have always had me on Team Casablanca considering Franck Muller’s selections. But it is party season after all, so I am easing up on the classic palette and eyeing off a completely different proposition. The Color Dreams collection is a parade of watches with one exuberant mission: to liven up proceedings. There’s nowhere to run for introverts with the complete spectrum of appliqué, exploded rainbow numerals — each one in a different colour — the dial is bolstered with as saturated a hand-stitched crocodile strap, from as wide a vista as the hours’ tones. On this occasion I’ve got the gloss orange croco strap. Pink and red are winsome alternatives but the green option would also be a fine match. At a quick first glance, the dial’s all childlike playfulness, but closer inspection reveals that Muller’s hallmark sunburst dial, with its lacquer and mother of pearl, has a depth to it, by means of a reference to the Crazy Hours collection. There is a ghosting of smaller, guilloché cut or embossed numerals around and across the dial, but just underneath the main numerals; the hours display time in the customary correct order though. This…
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The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure, all the extra information on the dial does complicate the cleaner design codes of the Polaris line, but the key features are there: the range of varied dial finishes, the applied trapezoid markers, the black and ocean blue colouring. And all that extra dial detail makes for a much richer on-the-wrist experience. With its functional design, wearer-friendly lightweight case rated to 100m, solid 65 hours of power reserve and undeniable charms, the Polaris Chronograph WT is a strong option for fans of JLC’s complex offerings who crave a more classic look.
The Polaris – as Andy recently informed us – is one of those truly iconic watches conceived in a golden age, not just of watchmaking but also of global exploration. This year the Polaris got the nod for the remake and revamp treatment, being offered in five new models, starting with the deceptively simple Polaris Automatic. The uncomplicated, no fuss Polaris Automatic is the entry-level ticket to JLC’s brand new sports watch collection. The dual crowns hark back to the original, but this is no Memovox. Instead, one crown governs time-setting and the other looks after the internal bezel. At first glance, the dial is uncomplicated, devoid even of a date. But look closer and you notice the mixture of sunray, grained, and opaline treatments, with applied numerals and trapezoidal hour markers filled with luminous material that matches the hands. It’s exactly the sort of accomplished offering you’d expect from JLC, and it elevates the Polaris Automatic above the typical sports-casual fare. The dial is offered in black and (our pick) ocean blue. Inside the 41mm steel case beats the LC Caliber 898/1 automatic movement with a power reserve of 40 hours, tested for 1000 hours and looking good through…
It’s IWC’s 150th birthday this year and to celebrate they’ve released 27 watches across five different collections – Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s, Da Vinci and Pallweber – that represent some pretty exciting firsts and evolutions for the brand. We’ve chosen one watch from each collection to highlight, as well as two from the Pilot’s Collection, because, well, Pilot’s watches. Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years” What’s new? This is the first Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC with a big date display. How many of this version are available? Two limited-edition models are available, each restricted to 100 watches, one with a blue lacquer dial and one with a white lacquer dial. Both are in stainless steel, the blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and the white with blued hands. Talking point? The lacquer on the dial is applied in 12 layers, with the last being hand-finished. It gives a glossy depth to the dial that’s a dramatic change up from the standard BP and the Le Petit Prince version. Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 150 years What’s new? The dial. White lacquer. Arctic. Glossy. Glorious. How many of this version are available? 1000 Talking point? Like on all models in the Jubilee collection,…
It’s clear that Girard-Perregaux have decided they’re onto a winner with their sporty-yet-luxurious Laureato, as new versions of the model dominated the brand’s SIHH 2018 line-up. Laureato Chronograph The piece I gravitated towards was the Laureato Chronograph, a modular upgrade to the regular automatic; the familiar Clous de Paris texture of the dial joined by three snailed subdials, while the case — in both 38 and 42mm options — has grown some crown guards and octagonal screw-down pushers that are actually easy to screw down. A real joy to use, and it doesn’t look too bad on the wrist either. Laureato Ceramic While we saw ceramic versions of the Laureato this year, the rubber strap is a small, but significant, addition. It adds even more to the ceramic case’s feeling of lightness, and accentuates the watch’s sporty character. And the range of finishings on the black ceramic case isn’t just beautiful — it’s a testament to GP’s skill. Laureato Flying Tourbillon If the Ceramic Laureato is stealthy, this Flying Tourbillon is a standout. Shown only in precious metals, the dial is seriously photogenic, thanks to its dramatic architecture and finishing. The constantly whirring, slightly off-centre tourbillon is the undisputed star.…
According to Montblanc’s Head of Watches, Davide Cerrato, the 1858 collection — the star of their SIHH 2018 lineup — is a “very important second sports line, one that really extends the offer of Montblanc, an offer that before was completely focused on classical watches”. At the core of the 1858 collection’s identity is its vintage style. Cerrato explains: “The vintage look refers to the first Minerva military watch. There’s the SuperLuminova, the cathedral hands, the domed sapphire crystal, the simple – but very strong – case.” All these points are very much in evidence on the 1858 Chronograph, which, like much of Montblanc’s lineup, makes a compelling value proposition. Montblanc 1858 Chronograph steel with black dial (ident 117835 – 117836) First up, there’s the steel-cased, black-dialled option. The dial isn’t matt, instead it has a subtle sunburst finish that adds a touch of class. Design-wise, Montblanc hasn’t messed with the formula too much: bi-compax layout, with spartan Arabic numerals and large registers (seconds on the left and minutes on the right). There’s not much clutter in the watch, just historic text and logo, and an unobtrusive minutes register. No superfluous text to clutter up the picture. The 42mm case is…
In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc’s Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is this, the Montblanc 1858 Automatic. Montblanc 1858 Automatic steel and bronze with black dial (ident 117832 – 117833) There’s a lot to like about these watches, but before we go into details, let’s talk about what the difference is between these and the original 1858 watches. The most significant change is the size, down from 44 to 40mm, which is much more friendly for many more people. Then there’s the movement, the automatic MB 24.15, which is, again, more of a crowd-pleaser. Beyond the basics, the case is more refined than before, with nice chamfered details and a bronze bezel as standard; it’s also rated to 100m. The dial is definitely vintage (thanks in no small part to those cathedral-style hands), and slightly military — which is exactly the look Montblanc were going for. Bonus points for no date window, and the domed sapphire crystal. Strap options are either a high-quality fabric strap (think Tudor),…
As SIHH kicks off, I’m prepared to bet – yes, even on the opening day – that this chronograph will emerge as one of the top watches of the week. Because it’s just so darned gorgeous and it has a great backstory. As you may know, in 2007 Montblanc took over the historic Minerva manufacture and began producing some seriously beautiful high-complication watches – notably the ExoTourbillon and Geospheres series. But a question remained: since Minerva was perhaps the greatest chronograph maker of the 20th century, where were the chronographs? We got the first answer after Jérôme Lambert became CEO in 2013: the Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph, launched at SIHH 2014 to rave reviews. The styling, based on a 1940s doctors’ watch, was perfectly judged and beautifully executed. The real excitement, though, was the new in-house movement. Calibre M13.21 was derived directly from the revered Minerva cal. 13.20 – a mono-pusher chronograph with column-wheel clutch and horizontal gear coupling (more about this below). Marking the 90th anniversary of Meisterstück, it was a limited edition of 90 pieces. And the movement didn’t appear in any subsequent model. Was that it? Yes but no. At SIAR in October 2015, Montblanc introduced the 1858…
For those of you situated outside of Australia, it might come as a surprise to learn that over the Christmas break just about everything shuts down for a few weeks (which means lots of BBQs, beaches and beers). This does include Time + Tide HQ (well, sort of, but not really), but that didn’t stop me from getting out and about in the summer heat, to do what I do best … My first spot for this Dispatch was on the wrist of Time + Tide contributor Cam, who was down in Melbourne for our Christmas party. So when I saw it, I promptly stole it. I’ve always loved the Omega Flightmaster; in fact, I think it’s the first ever watch photo that I posted on Instagram. There’s just so much to love about these old Flightmasters, which were made for only a handful of years during the late 1960s and early ’70s. I’ve said it before — the Flightmaster is long overdue for a reissue! Spotted on the wrist of a gent opposite me at a cafe, there was no missing the killer sector dial on this JLC Master Control. Its owner was quite the watch collector, and just that week…
We recently caught up with longtime watch instagrammer @PBANDWATCHES about his passion for the finer things in life, and were joined by his lovely wife, ‘Mrs PB’, to hear her perspective on the crazy hobby that is watch collecting. Hi, Mr PB, what’s your daily watch and why? I don’t really have one particular daily watch, but I probably grab my Pam 510 or Sub more than any others. It could be because both are no-date watches and very quick to set, but I find myself wearing them often. How do you unwind? Make myself an Old Fashioned, grab a nice cigar and sit by the fire in the backyard. The fact that it’s currently -22 degrees outside right now and I can’t unwind is about to make me go crazy. What about you, Mrs PB? My go-to is the Rolex Datejust II. I like a watch that looks like jewellery, so it generally wins out for work. What else is in @PBandWatches’ collection? Have you got a favourite? My collection casts a vast net because I collect off emotions. Patek 5164A, AP Royal Oak, Breitling Navi, Rolex Datejust II, MeisterSinger Salthora (jump hour) just to name a few. My…