HANDS-ON: Raymond Weil Freelancer Calibre RW1212 – a new movement in the house
Raymond Weil, one of the few independent, family-owned operations in the Swiss watch industry, marked their 40th birthday this year. And while I’m sure there was cake, and perhaps even champagne, the best part of the celebrations has to be the Calibre RW1212. This automatic movement, with distinctive open-heart escapement, is unique to Raymond Weil, designed in-house and made by Sellita. RW1212 marks the first time Raymond Weil have dipped their toes into the deep (and often murky) waters of in-house movements, and it’s a testament to the brand that they’ve been transparent about the movement’s design, development and construction, and they’ve made a mechanism that meets their needs, in that it’s a solid, robust automatic, with a touch of drama, thanks to the design of the escapement, which has been positioned in such a way to allow an uninterrupted view from the dial-side, suspended via a diamond-polished double bridge, a look that evokes (very consciously, I suspect) the placement of a tourbillon. While closer inspection (of the watch, or the price tag) reveals that the RW1212 isn’t a tourbillon, the effect is somewhat the same — allowing the user to see the beating heart of their watch. It’s a…
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The story in a second: Disco might be dead, but the ’70s live on in Oris’ latest re-edition. A decade for experimentation, the ’70s was an era of bold shapes and brightly coloured designs (men’s turtleneck ponchos, anyone?). While many of these experiments should never be repeated (men’s turtleneck ponchos), there are a few special exceptions. One of which is the Oris Chronoris. Released in 1970, it was the brand’s first foray into the world of motorsport and their very first chronograph. Since then, Oris has built a strong stable of auto-themed watches. Maintaining connections to the sport of motor-racing with partnerships including Audi Sport and Williams’ F1 teams. Oris first paid tribute to the Chronoris in 2005, in the shape of a retro-themed chronograph, and once again have honoured the one that started it all, with the release of the Oris Chronoris Date. The case The case of the Chronoris Date takes most of its design cues from its retro predecessor. Barrel-shaped with cut-out 19mm lugs, its rounded curves are fully polished, except for on top where a radially brushed finish creates a dazzling sunburst effect. This effect also draws the eyes towards the wonderfully double-domed AR-coated sapphire crystal, which not only…
There’s something about the colour red. In nature it symbolises danger, in human culture it’s got a more complex set of meanings: typically passion, strength, desire – emotion writ large. Which is why this glistening red sapphire confection is the logical extension of Hublot’s journey into sapphire. Not only does the vivid case amplify all the natural attributes of the Big Bang case – especially given the contrasting black detailing, but it exaggerates everything that Hublot stands for, not just in terms of design, but also in brand ethos. It’s an audaciously out-there watch, not to many people’s tastes, but it is an undeniably, infectiously fun watch. And, really, isn’t that what matters? Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Sapphire Australian availability and pricing Hublot Big Bang Unico Red Sapphire, limited to 250 pieces, $95,000
The ’80s were Nerd City, peppered with popped polo shirts and pie-crust collars, Slime, The Breakfast Club, pommes noisettes, Pop Rocks candy and brine shrimp pets masquerading as Sea-Monkey kits. All items the young cast of the addictive, nostalgia trip that is Stranger Things no doubt had to get across when their director asked them to watch The Goonies and Stand By Me in pre-production. Against this neon, fad-filled haze emerges the ’80s saving graces – the best pop music in history and watches that either embraced new technology or new money. Here’s 11 (see what we did there) watches we’d be happy to see in season two. Swatch Watch – 1983 The simple plastic quartz Swatch flipped the way we looked at watches on its head, bringing a sense of play to the fore, and decreeing them style consumables. It was a democratic move away from Swiss watches predicated on careful craftsmanship to be cherished for a lifetime. Swatch meant there was a colour and design for every personality. Casio G-Shock (DW-5000C) – 1983 The durability of the game-changing Casio G-Shock managed to avoid a prohibitive price bracket while earning cult cool status. Its engineer, Kikuo Ibe, wanted a…
Now, if you’ve watched my review of the Tudor S&G you’ll know that I’m #team2tone all the way, but the thing is, I don’t *really* know how to wear it. I mean, I think I’d be OK in more formal settings — just pair it with a suit and away you go, but in every other part of my life — not so sure. I’ve got two-tone anxiety, and I’m sure I’m not the only one. Because, much as we’re all aware that the mix of precious and plain metals is, once again, en vogue, our awareness of it, and how to wear it, is still stuck in the 1980s. So I thought it was time to bring in the big guns, in the form of David Meagher. David, aside from being editor of The Australian’s WISH magazine, is a bastion of good taste and a sartorial safe harbour. He’s also of a vintage to have experienced the two-tone trend last time it was cool, so he’s in a unique position to tell us how it was done and how it should be done. Now David, I don’t think it’s too forward of me to suggest that you might have…
The Melbourne Cup Carnival holds many traditions, particularly around dress code. We caught up with Melbourne tailor Carl Navè to discuss a couple of key looks for this year’s Spring Racing festival, and to discuss one very important accessory: watch straps. Yes, it’s time to accessorise your accessory (think about it)! My number one tip, first and foremost, is that the Spring Carnival is (intended to be) a classy affair. So, with that in mind, when looking at strap choices, the golden rule here is that whatever you pick, please ensure it’s a high quality two-piece strap (see below). As much as I love a good NATO or Sailcloth strap, we’re going for elegance, not bulk. Derby Day Carl: Derby Day is all about black and white, but this year I’ve decided to break away from the norm and seek inspiration from the colours of the flowers nominated for each race day. Therefore, my Derby Day look complements the blue tones of the Cornflower, with a bold navy blue checked three-piece suit. The olive green and burgundy check makes a sharp statement that will ensure you don’t blend in. Andy: Carl’s selected two bold colours here, dark navy with burgundy accents, which would work…
Eminem is currently going viral with a rant against Donald Trump delivered in a Detroit car park as part of the BET Hip Hop Awards. You’ve more than likely seen it, or at least snippets, but the full video is at the bottom of the post. The 44-year-old rapper finishes his rant with a message to any of his Trump-supporting fans, saying, “I’m drawing in the sand a line, you’re either for or against.” In it, Slim Shady wears a 35th anniversary G-Shock which is Casio’s seventh collaboration watch with artist and graphic designer Eric Haze. The limited edition GA700EH-1A model has a black and white colour scheme that appears solid from the front aspect, but the band gradates from black to white with thick brushstrokes of white paint. 2017 is printed on the underside of the band, and there is a signature star at the tip. Haze’s logo is engraved on the caseback. The watch also features a super illuminator LED light, chunky 3D black and white hands, five-year battery life, 200m water resistance and shock resistance, as well as world time (in 31 time zones, 48 cities + UTC), four daily alarms and one snooze alarm, 1/100th second stopwatch, 1/10th countdown timer, 12/24 hour formats and a hand retract function.…
One of the great paradoxes of the Swiss watch industry is that, broadly speaking, it is locked into a cycle that demands shiny new watch releases (often referred to as novelties) on a yearly basis. Pretty much without exception, these are all watches that are often intended to last a generation or three. What this means is that many watch brands continually offer new case materials, dial colours or combinations of complications to tempt us to change our wristwear. It’s a strong-willed watch lover indeed who can resist this siren call, but really, the latest is not always the greatest. Sometimes it’s a better play to go for timeless, and stylish. Which is where Rado’s Coupole Classic comes in; it is a sensibly sized dress watch with an aesthetic that neatly marries Swiss tradition with the chic industrial design Rado is often associated with. As a result the Coupole Classic is a solid automatic option for everyday duties. It’s simple, but with enough detail in the waffle-style dial, blued hands and power reserve to keep it interesting on the wrist. Rado Coupole Classic Australian pricing Rado Coupole Classic, steel on leather, $2225
With an eye for the eclectic and the independent, Simeon’s perspective on watches is well worth a follow. NAME: Simeon Kremzow-Tennie OCCUPATION: Editor and community manager at 8Past10. HANDLE: @Simeon_kt FOLLOWERS: 1.7k LOCATION: Germany Tell me about yourself: My name is Simeon Kremzow-Tennie, I’m a 24-year-old electrical engineering student, based In Germany. I’m also working as an editor and community manager for 8past10. I enjoy photography. Though I mostly photograph watches, I sometimes take a break and switch to nature photography. How do you unwind? After a long day I love to cook a nice dinner with my wonderful girlfriend, accompanied by a delicious wine to really relax. If the weather is nice and we can sit outside, I usually add a good cigar to the list as well. I’ve also recently started bouldering with some friends, which is a great sport to improve fitness and physical strength that also helps me to get my mind off a long work day. What’s your daily watch at the moment? Being a watch collector, I own several watches from different brands, so I do not have a true daily watch, as I change them too often. I do, however, like to wear watches…
In Australian rules football (AFL) there is a particular type of defensive move called the ‘don’t argue’. It involves fending off an opponent with an outstretched arm, usually at full pace. This image pretty much sums up the move, but if you need a 9-second tutorial, check this out. It’s brutal if you’re on the receiving end of one, and it’s exhilarating when you’re the instigator. The undisputed king of the ‘don’t argue’ is Dustin ‘Dusty’ Martin, pictured. What he lacks as a wordsmith, he makes up for in neck tattoos. A good percentage of Australian readers will know that Dusty is this year’s Brownlow Medal winner, which basically means he’s the best AFL player in the world right now. Arguments have everything to do with being a watch lover. What does this have to do with watches? Not all that much, but it has everything to do with life for us. If you didn’t already know, we are based in Richmond, Melbourne. Richmond are in the AFL Grand Final tomorrow, and will play the Adelaide Crows in front of over 100,000 people in the biggest sports stadium in the Southern Hemisphere. Therefore, we have been under siege in our…