VIDEO: The Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold with 240 hours power reserve is testosterone-drenched tech at its absolute finest
Editor’s note: As I go to post this review, something very sad just dawned on me. It’s been over three years since I’ve had a holiday as long as the power reserve of this watch. Which is 10 days. Ten. Days. Which means this watch would still be ticking after one wind upon my return from these far-too-short ‘holidays’. I digress, but that sad example goes a long way to establishing the technical credibility of this watch, and to proving the point that as soon as lockdown ends, I’m outta here for a while. Enjoy – Andrew Hublot are well known for their patented brand of boldly designed and technologically advanced watchmaking, and if there’s one watch that embodies those qualities, it’s the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 King Gold. The barrel-inspired case measures an extroverted 45mm and is hewn from one of the brand’s in-house precious alloys in King Gold, which has an array of complex finishes. The exposed bezel screws, articulating case shape and black rubber strap all see to the fulfilment of the bold design requirement. And within this thoughtfully designed case is where the technologically advanced component is evident. Powering this warmly toned behemoth is Hublot’s manufacture Calibre…
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Yesterday, we published an explainer on why lug to lug measurement is a better fit-telling metric than case diameter. Today, we’re continuing the theme, with yet more examples, this time with a focus on big watches that are suitable for smaller wrists. At the end of the day there is no substitute for trying on a watch in the metal, but making a trip to your local AD is not always an option. Lug to lug measurement, in my opinion, is the best way to guesstimate if a watch will flatter your wrist when buying a watch online – and this list proves it beyond doubt. All you need to do from here is learn the measurements of your best-fitting watch or any watch you have previously tried on that can serve as a benchmark for your wrist. As an example, I know anything over 50mm is unlikely to suit my wrist (which is why I opted for a Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight over the GMT as much as I love that Pepsi bezel). Let’s explore 10 watches with compact lug to lug measurements in proportion to their case diameter. You may be surprised at some of these numbers……
Ceramic is a notoriously tricky material to work with in watchmaking, with only a handful of brands able to produce the material at scale. One of the few brands that can claim to have mastered it is Rado, who are well known for their brightly coloured and scratch-resistant timepieces. While Rado use the material throughout a number of their different lines, one of the collections that benefits significantly from the expertise is the Rado True Square collection, which features pebble-smooth ceramic cases and bracelets to match. Within the True Square range, there are two references that show the breadth of the collection – the Automatic Open Heart and the Automatic Diamonds. Despite both featuring the exact same 38mm square case and integrated bracelet, they offer totally different feelings on the wrist. The Automatic Open Heart does what it says on the tin, with a very finely skeletonised dial that gives an almost totally uninterrupted view of the movement within. Certainly not something you see every day. In contrast, the Automatic Diamonds is as sleek as black velvet, with the polished case and bracelet serving up a shimmering backdrop for the deep black dial that is studded with four diamonds. Elegance…
It goes without saying that fans of Omega Speedmaster are some of the most ardently passionate people within the watch community and, indeed, the general population. As a watchmaker, Omega understand and foster this enthusiasm, and have this year acknowledged the legions of Speedy supporters with a very special new release. To commemorate one of the most important moments in Speedmaster history, the Biel-based brand has produced the all-new Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary, and this old dog has a very new trick up its sleeve. Behind the sapphire caseback of the Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary is a mechanical animation when the chronograph is activated that shows Snoopy seated in his Command and Service Module (CSM), making a journey to the far side of the Moon. The moon itself is ‘painted’ onto the sapphire crystal caseback using a “micro-structured metallisation” process, and sits in front of a disc with the Earth on it, creating a sense of distance between the two. The Earth disc sits directly behind the 9 o’clock running seconds sub-dial and, as a result, will rotate just as the Earth does, except once every 60 seconds. Surrounding the Earth disc is the…
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Concept line can easily be not just confusing, but confounding when you first come across it. The case shape is so alien … who is it even made for? When the first Concept was released in 2002, it more resembled a piece of lab equipment from a sci-fi movie than a watch, which is a topic Andrew discussed with Michael Friedman, Head of Complications at Audemars Piguet, recently in a lively Zoom call. Over the last 18 years, the Concept has undergone many changes, and, in the process the Concept enigma has deepened rather than crystallised. However, the collection slowly begins to make sense once you understand its purpose. The watches, which truly represent the pinnacle of modern technology and design, are few and far between, often acting as a compromise between new-world manufacture and old-word principles. The Concept is for the now, and now we have the latest addition — the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT in blue. Calling what encapsulates the watch a ‘case’ feels like a massive disservice. Its architecture is so deliberate and sculpted that it deserves something a lot closer to ‘fortress’, or ‘eighth wonder of the industrial world’.…
A round watch case like few others, sharp angles, quirky Japanese design and a Swiss movement? Surely that can grab your attention, even in these weeks of big stories from Switzerland. At a time when just as many gravitate towards the well known, we have the ones that turn towards another path, a path less crowded, where you will find small manufacturers like Minase. In the Akita province of northern Japan, Minase, more atelier than maison, produce around 500 watches a year – of which the Divido, unusually, is the only round watch, rising to fame a while back on the wrist of former Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe at the G7 summit, in the very same purple-blue we are looking at today. The brand has only existed since 2005, with a strong following in Japan, under the ownership of Kyowa Co, a specialist tool maker that had expanded into precision watch parts. With its perfect size of 40.5mm and a strong angular case design, there is a wealth of details few other small manufacturers dare enter into production – and in these intricate details the Divido truly shines. A case architecture and finishing that also shines in the physical…
I am utterly perplexed by the Maurice Lacroix Pontos Chronograph Monopusher. This is a watch, released to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Pontos range, that encompasses some of my favourite features across the ages of horology, amalgamated into one. Stealthy black, chunky yet not too large, both contemporary and vintage, with a chronograph dégradé dial. Oh, and why not throw in an in-house chronograph movement and a monopusher for the hell of it. Ordering one sandwich with all your sweet and savoury favourites would end in disaster, yet the Pontos seems to pull it off. I’m hungry for it. With a well-shaped and compact 41mm case, the dark wrist presence is one of exclusivity. This limited edition Pontos Chronograph has imaginative detailing and a design language that somehow manages to be harmonious, with a timeless quality and a feeling of stealth. Hats off to the design department at Maurice Lacroix for pulling off this feat, which starts with a luxurious dégradé face peppered with details. The dial If the year was 1942, and this was inside a 36mm gold case with a silver dial, we would be looking at a classic monopoussoir, whereas this black PVD version would be sketched…
Editor’s note: To celebrate Time+Tide opening an office in the UK, we thought we’d revisit a story about British watchmaking that selected eight notable models from Britain’s best. The best part about this story, however, is all the brands that were left out. Tears for Fears, to name just one example! British watchmaking has gained further momentum since we first published this, meaning, you guessed it, there will be an update very soon. There’s a revolution afoot! And it’s taking place on British shores. While the world – admittedly, us included – tends to focus a lot more on watchmaking of the continental kind, the wonderful world of modern watches mightn’t be where it is today without the innovations and inventions brought to us by the British watchmaking industry. In 1755, Thomas Mudge invented the lever escapement; John Harwood introduced automatic winding in 1924, and let’s not forget George Daniels’ invention and 1980 patent of the ingenious co-axial escapement. Well, British watchmaking is back. Thanks largely to bespoke manufacturers, tea-loving microbrands, and the re-emergence of some of the great British brands of days gone by. We’ve put together a list of eight of the best offerings from the land of…