INTRODUCING: The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum redefines the luxury diver
Omega’s lines between utility and luxury are ever-blurring, and increasingly confusing to people who like to categorise watches into strict genres and tropes. The truth is, the centuries-old Swiss powerhouse is constantly proving that you can have high-performance, high-specification and high-flex wristwatches without spending anywhere near as much as the competition. More to the point: if you want one, you can actually walk into a boutique and buy one. The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum is just the latest piece of evidence that Omega’s momentum isn’t stopping anytime soon. The overall impression of the watch is far from shy. As much as Omega tends to keep one classy step ahead of the word ‘gaudy’, this tri-metal beast certainly comes close. The embossed and stippled surface of the Sedna gold bezel is positively glitzy, creating an intense texture that not only adds a tactile satisfaction but also plays with the light in a rather glamorous way. The ring of tantalum, which forms the scalloped bezel, is certainly one of the most distinctive grey-toned metals in existence — the nearly pastel-blue tones neatly tying the case together with the navy blue wave dial, which extends the watch’s wrist presence all…
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I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even — don’t tell anyone — with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The Grand Seiko SBGW264 is another case (and dial) in point, and for me just another sign that the dress watch is alive and well, and speaks the Japanese language. The exquisite case shape in the Grand Seiko Elegance line has a language all of its own, a Japanese dictum that tells us that there is a golden ratio of case design between a circle and a cushion. This comes together with a Goldilocks-like 39mm size, and the typical Seiko language of strong sides embracing a polished bezel. Yet, in the Elegance series we have a more gentle flow of line, which accentuates the dial shape and remains delicate with an 11.6mm thickness. When paired with 18k rose gold on a crocodile strap, the lines of the SBGW264 become even more pronounced, yet warmer, with the unmatchable glow of Zaratsu-polished gold. But, let’s face it, the…
When life gave Finnish-born watchmaker of more than 10 years, Susan Galvin lemons, she made a refreshing glass of lemonade, donned a watchmakers coat, and began work on a company that is now ready to share the fruits of her labours. Galvin was made redundant due to a restructure back in March, and to make matters even more challenging, it happened while she was on maternity leave. For many this would have been a debilitating blow, but Galvin opted out of lockdown on the couch watching Netflix, and instead founded her own watch company, designed her first timepiece and raised more than $100,000 in the process. Called the Alku, the inaugural offering from the Galvin Watch Company looks like it could be a compelling entry-level watch, so let’s take a closer look. The case Galvin has clearly employed the full gamut of her expertise working for some of the biggest watchmakers in the game, because the case of the Alku presents as an understated and timeless design. Crafted from stainless steel, the rounded case measures in at a demure 38.65mm across, 12.45mm thick and 44.59mm lug to lug. The case is handsomely polished on all surfaces, and features some nice…
A dark brooding presence on the wrist is causing infatuation today, with a vast power reserve and the unexpected lightness of high-tech ceramic. The new Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Meca-10 Black Magic is a futuristic tonneau-shaped timepiece that surprises and assures you in equal measure, with its lightweight tank-like solidity and industrial fascination. A winning case for ceramics This is Hublot’s debut of their cutting-edge Meca-10 movement in the sharp contemporary shape of the Spirit of Big Bang series, with this being the darkest, almost menacing, version, Black Magic. The tonneau shape is not svelte at 45mm, with a 14.5mm thickness, but with the always surprising lightness of ceramic, coupled with the embrace of Hublot’s wide, soft rubber strap, it sits more comfortably on the wrist than should be allowed, for such a futuristic weapon of a watch. They say black is slimming, but that is relative, as this is an imposing presence on the wrist. Imposing, but with visible intelligence, too, care of the micro-engineering of the Meca-10 movement. The smooth surface of the ceramic and the intricate details of the watch means that, like me, you will find yourself taking it off the wrist for no other…
In a year of great horological heights, Glashütte Original is once again pushing for the summit with the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon 1920 limited edition. This comes after a succession of eye-catching 2020 releases, featuring some of the best dials in the business, and fascinating top tier versions of their vintage perfect diver SeaQ, which made me desire a diamond set bezel for the first time. With the Alfred Helwig Tourbillon, Glashütte Original seem to have toned it down to the quiet elegance of traditional German haute horlogerie, but this time the movement is the star. Turn the watch around with a loupe in hand, a good single malt, and prepare to be quietly impressed by understated German elegance competing with the best of Glashütte. The 25 pieces in this limited edition series marks the 1ooth year anniversary of the invention of the Flying Tourbillon by Glashütte master watchmaker Alfred Helwig in 1920. The large rear opening of the rear sapphire caseback reveals the serene elegance of the diagonally striped ¾ plate covering the movement, but this time instead of making us want more visible detail, it forms the stage on which the star performer needs no visual distraction – the…
The conversation kicked off with a comment by watch collector and dealer Eric Ku in the most recent Watch & Chill episode (skip to the timecode in the description). “I was obsessively watching this show Ballers… with the Rock. In this last season, [he] was wearing the purple Frosted Gold Royal Oak chrono. I distinctly remember him wearing it in multiple episodes. It was kind of interesting…” Michael Friedman, Head of Complications of Audemars Piguet, continued: “I haven’t had the pleasure of meeting him yet, but… he’s a known Audemars Piguet lover and friend of the company. Someone I’d love to meet. A great guy, always really great energy. And those big wtches look small on him.” View this post on Instagram Quiz time: Which celebrity wore this repeatedly in a popular TV Series? Answer in a site post dropping today… Tell us Live and spectacular on our wrist in January 2019 at what was the end of an era ⚓️ A post shared by Time+Tide (@timetidewatches) on Sep 26, 2020 at 4:50pm PDT However, you’d hardly call the 41mm Royal Oak Frosted Gold Selfwinding Chronograph with purple dial (ref #26331BC.GG.1224BC.01) a ‘big watch’. And certainly, on the Rock, it looks…
With Aussie summer approaching, it means beach and barbecue season has arrived – and the Bremont U-2 Blue is the perfect watch for either occasion. Whether timing a dive, or delicious food on the grill, the Bremont U-2 Blue is ready to take on summer fun in style. The case The watched is housed in a 43mm hardened stainless steel case, featuring the brand’s proprietary Trip-Tick® construction that provides added shock resistance. The Bremont U-2 Blue, being an evolution of the Martin-Baker lineup, is also built to withstand the MB ejection program. The watch also features Bremont’s patented inner bi-directional Roto-Click® bezel, which is operated by the crown at 4. The exhibition caseback is made of stainless steel, secured by six stainless steel screws with polished heads. The case is ready to dive into summer with a depth rating of 10 ATM, or 100 metres water resistance. For added ease of mind, the Bremont U-2 blue is rated to an ISO 3159 standard. The dial The rich blue metal dial features a galvanised sun-ray burst finish that is a total feast for the eyes. The hands and markers/numerals are all coated in Super-LumiNova®. The watch features hours, minutes, and running…
Editor’s note: If you’ve been baited by the headline, prepare to have your jets cooled, because when this one popped up for me a second time, I also angry-clicked it, all ready to disagree with the author’s contention. Bruce Duguay nails this story. And by the end, you’ll have to agree, it is a fair contention indeed. I have been trying to buy an Omega Speedmaster for a couple of years now. I have to admit I’m finding it nearly impossible to purchase one. Yes, I know they are readily available. That isn’t the problem. In fact, one of the problems is that the Speedmaster universe is infinite and daunting. First, let’s gather some context to quantify that opening statement. Currently listed on the Omega website are nine different categories, three or four different case sizes and an exponential array of material and bracelet/strap choices. If you’re handy with a spring bar tool, the permutations could run into the millions, and that’s just the brand-new ones. Then you have to consider the second-hand market. There have been many Speedys over 60 years of production and they range from bargain basement deals to pricey and sought-after limited editions. You want…
Editor’s note: In the latest episode of Watch & Chill, we happen on the subject of Royal Oak Concept models for women, and after again seeing the footage of this extraordinary stepped dial sparkle machine, we had to give it its own post, and exploration. Ask the average person what the purpose of a watch is, and they’ll say: ‘to tell the time’. Well, in the upper echelon of luxury watchmaking, this hasn’t been true for a very long time. Just as owners of supercars rarely reach their top speeds, the purpose of making a watch with absurd accuracy and attention to detail is the pursuit of perfection for perfection’s sake. There aren’t many better examples of this than the tourbillon complication, a work of intricate innovation that has been honed for more than 200 years, despite being technically unnecessary for the last century. So, if you take one of these useless features and put it into a watch with no dial markings, what do you end up with? The answer is one of the most visually striking fashion statements to be released in 2020 so far — the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Frosted Gold Flying Tourbillon. The Royal…
Editor’s note: We knew the reception would be good, for lots of reasons noted below. We suspected the reception might be great, as the watch has direct lineage to Seiko’s first-ever dive watch, the 62MAS. But, honestly, we didn’t expect the sheer level of excitement that it generated. So, we’ve reprised the video post to give you another look at what is certain to be a watch populating many best-of-2020 lists in a month or two. We’ve become accustomed to the sight of a vintage reissue in the watch world. Some are good, some are just plain opportunistic and unimaginative, and some miss the mark completely. And the reason many miss the mark is an awkward straddling of the fence between the past and the present. The question boils down to the level of historical accuracy that is being attempted, and whether or not the watch pulls it off. The Seiko SPB149J is a modern reissue of the 62MAS, which was Seiko’s first ever dive watch and it opts to proffer a modern interpretation of the OG, rather than a slavish 1:1 reproduction. This is a modern Seiko dive watch that employs some design cues from the original. The case…