Visiting the Romain Gauthier manufacture is an eye-opening experience. One of the best representatives of the Vallée-de-Joux expertise, the independent watchmaker crafts just over 50 pieces a year with an exceptional level of finishing and uncompromising watchmaking ethos. To demonstrate this, we take a look at the ultra-detailed and complex Romain Gauthier Logical One.
Visiting the Romain Gauthier manufacture is an eye-opening experience. One of the best representatives of the Vallée-de-Joux expertise, the independent watchmaker crafts just over 50 pieces a year with an exceptional level of finishing and uncompromising watchmaking ethos. To demonstrate this, we take a look at the ultra-detailed and complex Romain Gauthier Logical One.
After introducing Michiel Holthinirichs as a watchmaker and brand yesterday, it is time for the in-depth review of the Holthinrichs Ornament 1. I already explained some elements of the 3D printing used to create Michiel’s first watch but feel it is important that this is not a gimmicky watch. It is not a watch that leans on the concept of 3D printing, this is a watch that incorporates 3D printing into its design and architecture. It’s not the first time we investigate 3D-printing, but this is 3D-printing on a whole other level; the Holthinrichs Ornament 1.
Back in 2017, Seiko treated us with a nice surprise, as one of its most iconic watches was back in the collection: the Samurai. Praised by many enthusiasts, tested and certified by most as a reliable dive watch, updated for 2017 with slight evolutions and new colours, there was not much to complain about… Except maybe for the lack of a PADI edition. Well, the honour is safe as the “warrior” can be now ordered in the super-cool blue and red combination dear to PADI editions. Meet the Seiko Prospex Automatic Diver “PADI Samurai” SRPB99J1.
This review will feature not one, but two watches of a small, Italian brand we recently introduced; Orologi Calamai. When being in touch with the brand, and reviewing their CR42 Chrono earlier this year, I learned a new watch was coming. Being a quintessential Italian brand focusing on watches with an aviation look and feel, the Calamai family were developing the new G50 MKIII Solotempo. A simple, yet effective time only watch. We review it right here and now.
Designing a collection as wide and as important as IWC’s jubilee collection must represent quite the challenge. It needs to be new and innovative, but also remain true to the brand’s deepest roots. I think, by and large, that IWC have done a fine job. Not only does the diverse, 27-watch collection have a clear, unifying theme, thanks to the richly lacquered white and blue dials, but the selection of models is a good balance of their greatest hits and historically significant models. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” fits into both camps quite neatly. The important reference has enjoyed ever-increasing popularity since it first made its way back into the IWC catalogue in the early ’90s. And just quietly, I think this limited edition hand-wound Portugieser is one of the most attractive takes on the model ever released. Hands down. It’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. Offered in either steel (1000 pieces) or red gold (250 pieces) versions — both with white dials — the watch is effortlessly, unashamedly classic. The black printed sans-serif Arabic numerals, railroad-style minute track, seconds dial and IWC logo are crisply printed, and given plenty of space on the…
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For the SIHH 2018, Laurent Ferrier had quite a lot of novelties up his sleeve and his latest watch features a new movement and an unprecedented complication for the brand: an annual calendar. Housed in the sleek, round Montre Ecole (School Piece) case, the Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar already impressed us just by looking at photos… And then came the surprise of Ferrier’s new movement housed in a great looking new gold alloy. Clearly, one of the most elegant and desirable watches of the SIHH 2018.
IWC’s Portugieser line is, in Australia at least, one of their most popular — and, of all the models, one of the perennial favourites is the classically handsome Portugieser Chronograph. Which is why we’re particularly interested in the Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years”. Quick recap in case you’ve been living under a rock for the last week or so: This year, IWC turns 150 (and we don’t mind saying that they’re looking quite good for their age), and one of the ways they’re celebrating the big occasion is with watches. Specifically, 27 special limited editions, released across five key lines. Now, the Portugieser Chronograph may lack the high-end clout of the Constant Force, or the novel display of the Pallweber, but it is, nonetheless, an important model. Like all the models in this jubilee collection, the chrono is offered in two special, heavily lacquered dials in blue or white that do a fine job of evoking the look of enamel. There are not precious metal options; only steel, and both come on a black alligator strap. So, nice dial aside, what makes this watch special? Well, the movement. Typically, Portugieser Chronos have closed caseback, as they’re powered by a Valjoux. Not…
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Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most “Panerai” of all Panerais – the Luminor. Full-fat version, not the slimmed-down Due. A lot of the new PAM00775 is quintessential Luminor and quite a lot is not. There’s the chunky 44mm brushed steel case – as hefty on the wrist as a tool watch should be; a design so strong and confident that the crown guard alone has made Luminor a modern icon. Engraving on the closed caseback includes 100m – reference to the water-resistance. There’s the classic numerals font – the “closed 6 and 9” version – and the simple white printed dial, devoid of all decoration except the OP logo (in blue here; in white on other versions). The 00775 is the base two-hand version, without even the small seconds register of the Marina variant. You don’t get a sandwich dial, unfortunately (when you read down and see the price you’ll know why) but the numerals are thickly painted with…
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According to Montblanc’s Head of Watches, Davide Cerrato, the 1858 collection — the star of their SIHH 2018 lineup — is a “very important second sports line, one that really extends the offer of Montblanc, an offer that before was completely focused on classical watches”. At the core of the 1858 collection’s identity is its vintage style. Cerrato explains: “The vintage look refers to the first Minerva military watch. There’s the SuperLuminova, the cathedral hands, the domed sapphire crystal, the simple – but very strong – case.” All these points are very much in evidence on the 1858 Chronograph, which, like much of Montblanc’s lineup, makes a compelling value proposition. Montblanc 1858 Chronograph steel with black dial (ident 117835 – 117836) First up, there’s the steel-cased, black-dialled option. The dial isn’t matt, instead it has a subtle sunburst finish that adds a touch of class. Design-wise, Montblanc hasn’t messed with the formula too much: bi-compax layout, with spartan Arabic numerals and large registers (seconds on the left and minutes on the right). There’s not much clutter in the watch, just historic text and logo, and an unobtrusive minutes register. No superfluous text to clutter up the picture. The 42mm case is…
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