HANDS-ON: The Montblanc 1858 Automatic
In 2016, Montblanc announced a new line, the 1858, a vintage-inspired sports collection. This year, under the keen direction of Montblanc’s Head of Watches Davide Cerrato, the entire 1858 line has received a stylish and oh-so-smart update. There are more complex versions, but the entry-level piece is this, the Montblanc 1858 Automatic. Montblanc 1858 Automatic steel and bronze with black dial (ident 117832 – 117833) There’s a lot to like about these watches, but before we go into details, let’s talk about what the difference is between these and the original 1858 watches. The most significant change is the size, down from 44 to 40mm, which is much more friendly for many more people. Then there’s the movement, the automatic MB 24.15, which is, again, more of a crowd-pleaser. Beyond the basics, the case is more refined than before, with nice chamfered details and a bronze bezel as standard; it’s also rated to 100m. The dial is definitely vintage (thanks in no small part to those cathedral-style hands), and slightly military — which is exactly the look Montblanc were going for. Bonus points for no date window, and the domed sapphire crystal. Strap options are either a high-quality fabric strap (think Tudor),…
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As SIHH kicks off, I’m prepared to bet – yes, even on the opening day – that this chronograph will emerge as one of the top watches of the week. Because it’s just so darned gorgeous and it has a great backstory. As you may know, in 2007 Montblanc took over the historic Minerva manufacture and began producing some seriously beautiful high-complication watches – notably the ExoTourbillon and Geospheres series. But a question remained: since Minerva was perhaps the greatest chronograph maker of the 20th century, where were the chronographs? We got the first answer after Jérôme Lambert became CEO in 2013: the Meisterstück Heritage Pulsograph, launched at SIHH 2014 to rave reviews. The styling, based on a 1940s doctors’ watch, was perfectly judged and beautifully executed. The real excitement, though, was the new in-house movement. Calibre M13.21 was derived directly from the revered Minerva cal. 13.20 – a mono-pusher chronograph with column-wheel clutch and horizontal gear coupling (more about this below). Marking the 90th anniversary of Meisterstück, it was a limited edition of 90 pieces. And the movement didn’t appear in any subsequent model. Was that it? Yes but no. At SIAR in October 2015, Montblanc introduced the 1858…
While the automatic, chronograph and Minerva versions of the 1858 collection bear a strong resemblance to the existing 1858 watches, the Geosphere is something else entirely. It’s also a watch that speaks most directly to the “spirit of mountain exploration” that underpins the line. Like all the watches Montblanc have released at SIHH 2018, the 1858 Geosphere is rugged, sporty and quite retro. But on top of this, the 1858 Geosphere has maps on the dial, and a compass on the bezel. But before we get to the details, let’s look at the bigger picture. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere steel with black dial (ident 117837) The 1858 Geosphere offers what Montblanc say is a “new worldtime complication”, which adds some geographic representation and day/night indicator to a dual time watch. The local time is on the large hands, and the home time (hours only) is on the subdial at nine. The dial though is dominated by the northern and southern hemisphere day/night indicators at 12 and six o’clock. In practice, pulling the crown out to the second position of the crown adjusts both time zones, and the hemisphere indicators, while in the first position it adjusts the date and the local time…
Every November/December, like clockwork, I start pondering what constitutes the perfect summer watch, due in large part to the fact that in these months the mercury begins to rise rapidly. So what makes a summer watch? To be a contender, I think a timepiece must have three essential characteristics: water resistance, weather-suitability and a fun personality. This Halios Seaforth delivers on all fronts. Halios, if you’re not familiar, are a small Canada-based microbrand, who have risen to the top of the multitudinous mass of microbrands through their constantly strong watches, which are well built and — importantly — original when it comes to their design. Last year we looked at the second iteration of the Puck, which to me epitomises Halios’ past — tough, slightly OTT dive watches. The Seaforth, on the other hand, is a far better representation as to where the brand is going — more subdued, versatile, but still solid. The Seaforth is a 41mm steel-cased watch, with 200m of water resistance, a range of dial and bezel options (this option is in unmissable Bahama Yellow, with a GMT bezel), a lovely, domed sapphire crystal and simple-but-striking baton indices and matching hands, filled with C3 SuperLuminova, and outlined…
