HANDS-ON: Linked in – the sleek new TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5
For some, turning 30 is a daunting occasion. It’s an age when we’re expected to be mature and take life seriously. And just getting yourself up and down from a chair now takes effort and involves a distinctly loud groan. It’s not all bad though. And in the case of the new TAG Heuer Link it can actually be a very good thing. First released in 1987, the Link began life as the TAG Heuer S/EL (short for Sports Elegance) and throughout the ’90s was one of their most successful models. In recent years, however, the Link was overshadowed by the other big players in the TAG Heuer catalogue. At least that was until last year when it was relaunched in the women’s collection, and this year it’s the men’s turn. Now measuring 41mm, the case of the updated Link treads the curved line between a round and cushion shape. With satin brushing and polished edges creating contrast and emphasising its silhouette, particularly on the two-piece bezel. The smooth lines mean that this Link is elegant and dressy, but with subtle crown protectors and 100m of water resistance, it harkens back to the sportiness of the 1987 original. While the…
The post HANDS-ON: Linked in – the sleek new TAG Heuer Link Calibre 5 appeared first on Time and Tide Watches.
Story in a second: It’s one of the best modern sports chronographs of 2017. ’Nuff said. In two short years, TAG Heuer’s Carrera Heuer 01 has gone from a single statement model to a fully fledged sub-collection, with something for everyone. Having said that, this stealthy, slightly smaller 43mm in matt black ceramic might just be the most versatile model yet. The case There are two noteworthy features of the case of the CAR2090: its size and material. First of all, the size. As I’ve said before, the 43mm Heuer 01 models are much friendlier to more wrists than the (frankly, pretty massive) 45mm versions. 43mm is still a large, modern sports case size that doesn’t — especially when coupled with the height required by the integrated chrono movement — lack anything in the wrist appeal department. Secondly, the material. The matt black ceramic case construction (with a stainless steel core and caseback for water resistance) doesn’t just look mean, it also means your watch is nigh unscratchable, and substantially lighter than a comparable steel model — two factors that greatly improve the day-to-day wearability of this piece. It’ll look good for longer, and won’t weigh you down at the end…
In recent years, Panerai has changed tack — steering a little away from the purely hard-edged, masculine image that has characterised the brand’s more recent history with models like the Luminor Due and this flyback chronograph, made to celebrate Panerai’s partnership with the Panerai Classic Yachts Challenge, or PCYC. For a brand that was born on the wrists of Italian frogmen, the journey topside to the decks of classic yachts, and all the glamour associated with that, is a short and natural evolution, as the calm, confident and slightly retro-inspired Luminor 1950 cased watch proves. With its rich ivory-coloured dial, crisp black text and nautical tachymeter scale, the PCYC Flyback is as welcome as a fresh sea breeze on a balmy summer’s day. The good looks don’t end there though, with dot and hash hour markers — a departure from Panerai’s characteristic Arabic numerals — in warm vintage tones keeping the dial uncluttered, and the gold and blued steel hands adding a flash of colour. The slightly distressed Ponte Vecchio calf strap is a perfect stylistic match. The caseback is solid, showing a broadside view of a classic yacht, which is something of a mixed blessing. This solid caseback is…
In the weeks leading up to Baselworld 2017, the speculation as to what Rolex would be releasing was rife. With astute watch collectors quickly pointing out that 2017 marked 50 years of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the community braced for an anniversary edition. We all know — and love — that Rolex celebrates iconic anniversaries, and more often than not it’s a sophisticated touch here and there. Think back to the Rolex Submariner (ref 16610LV), where we saw a green bezel, or the more recent Rolex Day-Date 40 (60th anniversary Edition), with a stunning green dial. For all that, they’re instantly recognisable: Rolex are subtle — one of their core strengths is to design and manufacture timeless wristwatches. A Submariner from 1970 looks just as good as a current production Submariner, and that’s because Rolex doesn’t do rapid change. They move to the beat of their own drum. So, when the doors to the fair opened, attendees (myself included) swarmed to the Rolex booth, fighting to get the first glimpse of exactly what this would be. Glistening in the window sat the brand new 50th Anniversary Sea-Dweller. Since that initial exciting glimpse, I’ve managed to spend a bit more time with the new Sea-Dweller reference…
One of Grand Seiko’s most in-demand and instantly identifiable watches is the Snowflake, AKA the SBGA211. For many, this pure, and deceptively simple, watch epitomises the high-end Japanese maker, and it certainly exhibits all the Grand Seiko hallmarks: exceptional casework, precise finishing techniques, and those glimmering hands and hour markers. And then, of course, there’s the dial — textured like a field of fresh snow, that can, at a distance, be passed off as a simple white. Look closer though and you’ll find yourself sucked into the richness and serenity of its lustrous beauty. And then there’s the impossibly smooth sweep of that hand-blued second hand, a tell-tale marker of the Spring Drive movement whirring behind the scenes. Spring Drive, unique to Seiko, is an innovative hybrid of quartz accuracy and mechanical perpetuity that is as intriguing and ingenious as the titular dial, if not more so. Add to this the watch’s supreme wearability and it’s easy to see why it’s still such a popular option. Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211 ‘Snowflake’ Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGA211, titanium, $8400
The story in a second: Two-tone is back, baby! Steel and gold watches have been around for years. Hitting peak popularity around 30 years ago, they were the epitome of ’80s style, but, then again, so were pastel polos with double popped collars. However, while the mix of these two metals has been used by countless manufacturers, I’ve just never been a two-tone guy. It’s not that I have anything against the combination (double popped collars are a different story), it’s just that they were never for me. This year, something happened that I think no one saw coming. Tudor released a two-toned Black Bay, and, I have to say, I think they’ve changed my mind. The case Apart from the obvious, not much has changed with the 41mm case of the new Black Bay. It still holds that same classic tool watch shape, with high, polished sides, chamfered lugs, and oversized crown. On top, the satin-brushed finish is still there, as is the black 60-minute bezel, which surrounds that wonderfully domed sapphire crystal. It’s even still water resistant to 200 metres. What has been changed, though, makes all the difference. The bezel is now a solid piece of yellow…
Hublot’s sapphire journey began with their ultra high-end MP-05 LaFerrari, a horological engine in the truest sense of the word, with 50 days of power reserve thanks to 11 coupled barrels. It made perfect sense for Hublot to show this beast of a movement off to its fullest capacity with a full sapphire case. But it seems LaFerrari only whet Hublot’s appetite for transparency, making a splash last year with the Big Bang Unico Sapphire, a limited edition of 500 pieces that eclipsed any previous sapphire production runs. It’s easy to see why Hublot is drawn to sapphire as a case material. Aside from the fact that its extreme hardness means it’s virtually scratch-proof, the glossy, transparent material is a perfect fit for Hublot’s art of fusion design approach – the see-through case turns expectations of what goes where on a watch on its head. Inside is outside, fragile is strong. Very Hublot. And from that initial sapphire Big Bang, we’ve seen the collection expand rapidly, with all black versions, stone set models (a particular favourite), a sapphire Spirit of Big Bang and this, the Big Bang Unico Blue Sapphire. This watch marks the first time blue synthetic sapphire has been…