IN-DEPTH: The slender sexiness of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic

The story in a second: Forget bling: thin is in, and Bulgari are king. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is the latest in Bulgari’s trio of record-breaking ultra-thin watches, and perhaps the greatest. We have a look at the watch’s barely-there beauty, and find out why it’s such a standout. The case Any discussion of the Octo Finissimo Automatic has to start with some specs. And for the case, the key figure is 5.15mm. That’s slight, no matter how you slice it, but it manages to avoid feeling frail on the wrist. The level of finishing is very high, and you can see how anything superfluous has been pared back or – in the example of the caseback – removed completely.  For me, though, the real surprise about this case wasn’t how thin it was, it’s the weight. On the excellent bracelet (more on that later), the Octo Finissimo clocks in at only 73 grams, thanks to the titanium construction. It’s so light that I did an almost comical double take the first time I picked it up. But the benefit of the titanium case extends beyond its lightness; it’s exceptionally thermo-conductive, meaning it very quickly matches your body temperature, making…

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8 years ago

IN-DEPTH: The Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Master Chronometer

The story in a second: This year the Aqua Terra received a major upgrade, and now we’re seeing Omega’s staple in a whole new light. Since it first surfaced in 2003, Omega’s Aqua Terra has been a versatile everyman, stylish and sartorial, but tough enough for the real world. This year the collection levelled-up to Master Chronometer status and we thought we’d take this sparkly 41mm rubberclad model for a spin. The case The case of the Aqua Terra hasn’t changed too obviously, it’s still the same classic shape, with sporty, swooping, twisted lugs and polished surfaces aplenty. It’s a combination of casual style and dressy finish that helps the Aqua Terra’s chameleon-factor. All models are offered in 38 or 41mm widths, a slight reduction from the previous generation, in line with changing tastes and sized  to please pretty much everyone. One change you might notice is the crown. Omega have flared it ever so slightly, giving it a more conical shape, simply to improve the ergonomics, which was apparently an issue on older versions. I don’t have much personal experience on that front, but I had no issues with this one. The dial The most obvious cosmetic changes have…

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8 years ago

Review – Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”, Reissue of a Rare Prototype for Aqua-Lung (With Historical Insights)

The Doxa SUB-300 is regarded as one of the most important watches amongst the diving community. Launched in 1966, it was certainly not the first dive watch (see the 1953 Blancpain Fifty Fathoms or the 1953 Rolex Submariner), however, it was part the first professional dive watches and, for that, it is historically important. This year, Doxa follows up the success of 2016’s sold-out 50th Anniversary SUB 300 Professional with another vintage-reissue, this time bearing the famous Aqua-Lung logo. Here’s the Doxa SUB-300 “Black Lung”, a tribute to an ultra-rare 1967 vintage Doxa prototype.

8 years ago

Review – Bell & Ross BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, Unusual & Technical

At Baselworld 2017, Bell & Ross unveiled several very cool watches, including the BR03-92 Diver or the new Vintage Collection, all pieces that were completely in the vein of the brand’s DNA. Another watch was (discreetly) showed though, a watch that was quite unexpected and unusual. Fitted with a slim tourbillon movement, wound by a micro-rotor, built around a concept of transparency, mixing a certain elegance with bold elements, with a quite unique construction for the case… This watch is the Bell & Ross BR-X2 Tourbillon Micro-Rotor, and today we take a closer look at it.

8 years ago

HANDS-ON: Janus-faced – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Moon

It’s fair to say that, for most people, Jaeger-LeCoultre in 2017 has been synonymous with the Master Control series we’ve spoken about at length. On the one hand, these watches deserve their time in the sun; on the other hand, you might have missed the truly stylish Reversos JLC released this year. For me, the star of the swivelling show is this two-faced beauty, the Reverso Tribute Moon in steel. Last year JLC launched a Reverso subcollection – the Tribute Line – that honours the spirit of historic Reverso models, a mission the Tribute Moon well and truly delivers on, with equally beautiful night and day dials. I’m always struck by just how much watch you get with a Reverso. Of course you get one elegant watch with two distinct personalities, but on top of that you get the practically of two time zones and, in this case, the romance of a moonphase (matched with the less-romantic but eminently practical date), all in one of the most distinguished-shaped watches in the business. These pictures speak clearly to the beauty of the watch: the subtlety of the silver dial’s eggshell finish, and the richness of its twin’s clous de Paris texture, the lustre…

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8 years ago

REVIEW: Oris Artelier Calibre 112

Although it was launched at Baselworld 2016, we took some time to finally get hands on with the Oris Artelier Calibre 112. One of reason was that we had to reflect on the watch, its mechanics and how to position it. Its rather clean, classic, certainly not too small and manly design, is something it shares with a well-known Swiss brand that used to pride itself for these characteristics. Add to that the 10-days power reserve of the Oris and the resemblance only becomes more obvious. One way or another, Oris is delivering a magnificent package for the price, and should certainly be considered if you’re looking a nice fly-under-the-radar powerful watch. So, without any further delay, please enjoy our review of the Oris Artelier Calibre 112.

8 years ago

Review (& Opinion) – The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph

Tudor did it again… When introduced at Baselworld 2017, their latest addition to the Heritage Black Bay collection, a chronograph, immediately became a talking piece, bringing contentious or heated discussions around the table and passionate arguments – and not only on collectors’ forums or social media but also internally here, at the Monochrome redaction. Yet, even if we all are watch-lovers, we also have the duty of being objective in our reviews. This is why we’ve been waiting to bring you this test of the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono, just to make sure that passion-driven feelings have cooled-down.

8 years ago

Review – Dissecting the Laurent Ferrier Montre Ecole in Steel to Understand the Meaning of Haute-Horlogerie

This article first started its life as a classical review, as we like to do here, on Monochrome. However, as I was drawing it in my mind, I quickly understood that the Laurent Ferrier Montre Ecole was a perfect piece to do something slightly different, to write an article with a different structure. In fact, we often have questions about how high-end watches can cost such incredibly high prices. Well, today, by properly dissecting this Montre Ecole, I’ll tend to explain why a 3-hand watch in stainless steel can be priced CHF 35,000 – and indeed, it’s all about the smallest details…

8 years ago

Review – The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 4500V

Some categories in the watch world are more difficult than others. The “Luxury Sports-Watch” certainly is amongst the toughest ones. Narrow, precisely defined, requiring the highest standards of quality, luxury, and mechanics, driven by a few, very strong icons… Entering it is complex. Renewing one of its members is close from a dead-end. This is however what Vacheron Constantin achieved with the new Overseas collection, introduced in 2016, and today we look at the “standard” offer, the Overseas Automatic 4500V.

8 years ago

VIDEO: Dial it up to 11 with the Seiko Presage Cocktail Time (refs SRPB41, SRPB43 & SRPB46)

If you’re ‘into’ watches, it’s easy to fall into a  perception that a higher price naturally equates to higher value and quality. However, Seiko’s colourful and decidedly wallet-friendly Presage Cocktail Time turns these assumptions on their head, with an RRP well south of $1000 and a wrist presence that can compete with watches 10 times the price. Simply put, the Cocktail Time is a winner because it’s fun, and that’s mostly down to the dials. Take that away and you have a well-priced 40mm steel dress watch. Nice, but unremarkable. The Cocktail Time takes classic dressy tropes and turns the fun factor all the way up. There are bright colours, interesting textures, reflections and a dazzling play of light. The only way this watch could be more of a party would be if Seiko popped an actual disco ball on the wrist (I wouldn’t put it past them). And, of course, the cocktail association doesn’t hurt the cause either. Seiko has smartly made the boozy link explicit, matching the icy-blue dial with a Sky Diving, the brown with a Manhattan and the deep blue with a Moonlit Night (more on this later…), allowing you to identify with your favourite in…

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8 years ago