Hands-On – The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase, A Classic Modernized
Over the last few years, IWC has been steadily re-positioning its various collections in a decidedly upward direction. Most notably, the Portugieser has moved up a few rungs on the price list, whilst the Portifino now occupies the space this move created. Although at first this may not seem like great news for your wallet, it has resulted in the introduction of several interesting and attractive pieces into the Portofino range, including this gorgeous IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase. Today, we go hands on to find out what all the fuss is about.
Blancpain has an excellent history in dive watches, and among the most coveted are the military-issued pieces. In this already hyper-specialised niche, the MIL-SPEC I and MIL-SPEC II watches stand head and shoulders above the rest. These watches were first created in 1957 to meet the very specific needs of the United States Navy. In fact, if you really want to nerd out we’d highly recommend reading the actual military specification – MIL-W-22176A(SHIPS). The most distinctive feature of this watch is the hemispheric moisture indicator on the bottom half of the dial. It’s this feature that Blancpain has celebrated with the MIL-SPEC, and that lies at the heart of its charm. Before we dive into the current model, let’s first look back at the Tornek-Rayville. Created to meet MIL-SPEC II, this watch is a great example of what makes watches in general, and vintage in particular, so cool. Roughly 1000 of these watches were issued to the United States Navy in the early 1960s, as part of a tender won by Allen Tornek’s company Rayville. Now, American naval divers had been using the Fifty Fathoms for some time, but the Buy American Act required government bodies to prefer US-made products.…
So far this week we’ve looked at the larger 45mm Captain Cook and the smaller vintage versions. To round out the trifecta, we’re taking this bright and beach-ready number for a spin. Now, this isn’t your typical ‘on the wrist’ review, as the mesh bracelet is intended for wrists smaller (and less hairy) than my one. But you can still see how the all-white colour scheme really makes this design pop, especially when helped out by the diamond hour markers and the field of reflections that is the Milanese-style bracelet. Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm (white) Australian pricing The Rado HyperChrome Captain Cook 37mm on mesh, $3100
We’ve already given you a pretty thorough look at Rado’s pint-sized and patriotic Captain Cook, but while still photography is great at showing the finer details – that sunbrush finish and crisp dial printing, for example – video gives you a much more holistic picture. If you want to know how that dial looks under the glass box sapphire (hint – it looks awesome), or whether that ceramic is too shiny, then video is the way to go. And if you’ve been tossing up the pros and cons of regular vs limited, this could help you seal the deal – I know I had to try the bracelet on for it to win me over. Finally, in case you’re wondering, I’ve got a fairly large wrist, around 20–21cm – or a touch over 8 inches if imperial is your jam.
The story in a second Who expected a drool-worthy heritage reissue from ceramic focused Rado at Baselworld? No one, that’s who. While Rado is particularly well-known for their use of high-tech ceramic and hard metals, they’ve got a long history in water resistant and dive watches, launching their sporty ‘Green Horse’ series of watches (with a particularly cute seahorses logo on the dial) in 1958. In 1962 they released a simple little dive watch called the ‘Captain Cook’. Fast forward 55 years and Rado has released another series of watches named for the famed explorer. There’s a large 45mm version and a feminine white option, but our eyes were drawn to the brace of 37mm vintage reissues that are virtually identical to the 1962 original. The version with the sunbrushed dial and leather strap, limited to 1962 pieces, has received the most attention. But there’s also a regular production model with a matt black dial and a metal bracelet. The case The most remarkable thing about the case of the Captain Cook is the size – 37mm is quite petite by contemporary standards. The fidelity to the historic watch size is both a blessing and a curse. By sticking to their…