INTRODUCING: The first Seiko we’ve seen on a bund strap – the Limited Edition SJE085 Alpinist is a killer version of their first sports watch
When Seiko launched their new, vintage-inspired sub range of the Alpinist, we shared the three standard models in our story here, but we’ve kept the star under wraps. Here’s the fourth smaller sibling, the limited edition SJE085 Alpinist 1959 recreation, vintage purity on a surprising bund strap. While it might look like mere tweaks to the design of the bright trio covered in our previous story, the SJE085 is, in fact, much more than mere hand-stitched leather cuff-ery. While the look is the same, the case and lugs are only for this Limited Edition, with a 36.6mm diameter versus 38mm for the standard model, and a svelte 11.1mm thickness. This is obsessively designed with a deep passion for the Seiko Laurel original, but why not before I hear you ask? Well, Seiko have been rather generous with their limited and standard diver’s watches, with only a smattering of Presage in between a strong selection of skin divers and Tuna cans. This time they’ve pushed the boat out, especially on what is a charmingly quirky chocolate-sweet bund strap, its whimsical seams and outer grooves looking like nothing else on a standard Seiko. The watch case is both a celebration of the…
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We all know that pretty much any stainless-steel Rolex sports watch is insanely popular right now. In fact, there’s an unrelenting groundswell of hype around these watches that is undeniable. But do they really deserve it? One of the most prominent watches in the Professional range is the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO, which instantly commanded a long waiting list ever since it was first released back at Baselworld 2018. Sure, we know it’s a good watch, but is it actually worth the premium that it demands on the secondary market? With a 40mm stainless-steel case, red and blue Cerachrom bezel and solid-link jubilee bracelet, the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO is a watch with a long history behind it. This history began in the middle of the 1950s when Rolex worked with pilots from the Pan-Am airline to develop a functional travel watch. Nearly seven decades later, the Rolex “Pepsi” GMT is still a watch in extremely high demand and its value continues to climb. Housed inside the Oystersteel case is the automatic in-house caliber 3285, which is Rolex’s most sophisticated GMT movement to date. With 70 hours of power reserve, an anti-magnetic Chronergy escapement and a temperature…
The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore the same caliber architecture you would find in a Black Bay Fifty-Eight. But the J12 watch has actually utilized an even more prestigious movement in a previous model from 2008. While not explicitly advertised, this watch used a movement supplied by none other than “holy trinity” manufacturer Audemars Piguet – the same caliber found originally in the Royal Oak Offshore and in many other of their Royal Oak watches. Eagle-eyed collectors will have already spotted the caliber in the watches name: Chanel J12 3125 ref. H2918. The use of the 3125 (3120 in Audemars Piguet watches) movement commanded a rather high retail price of over $20,000 USD when it was released. This component of the now discontinued model is the main reason why today many collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 on the secondhand market, and why the value-retaining reference is listed for…
It’s 140 years since Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori established his first watchmaking shop in Tokyo. To mark this occasion, the Seiko designers must’ve had a craving for menthol judging by the icy cool aesthetics of the Seiko 140th Anniversary collection. Seiko 5 Sports 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPG47K1 Let’s kick off with the most accessible piece, a sharp Seiko 5 Sports. I sincerely feel that we now can count the 5 as the proper heir to the SKX throne with a bewildering array of colourful editions available (like the ones covered in our story here or this mad batch of Anime-infused fun). There are 11,000 of these new pieces available, but I’d still get my skates on, as this is seriously fresh. Despite its 100 metre depth rating, the lack of a screw-in crown makes this more Sports than Diver, but a bulletproof everyday wearer nonetheless. The classic Seiko bright blue diver’s hands pop off the crisp white pattern on a balanced dial that’s one of the cleanest Seiko 5 designs yet. The laser-like lume glow and needle thin blue lollipop seconds hand are sharp finishing touches to a great first mechanical sports watch. You can’t really go wrong with…
The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design language an aviation watch requires while also weaving in fresh elements to distinguish your novelty. This is where the Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition succeeds, introducing a watch with clear aviation purpose while not rehashing familiar pilot’s designs. This limited-edition watch of 750 pieces was created in partnership with the Tactical Leadership Program (TLP), an elite pilot training school based in the Spanish city of Albacete. Founded in 1978, TLP prepares NATO allied coalition forces for worldwide tactical air operations. The 44mm gun-metal grey PVD stainless-steel case is definitely on the larger side, but fortunately the lugs have a downward slope that will work to hug the wrist better. Based on the measurement of previous generation Pro Pilot’s from Oris, I think it is safe to infer the lug to lug measurement is larger than 50mm – but not by much (within a few…
In 2020, TAG Heuer doubled down in their efforts to dominate the luxury smart watch market with the launch of the third generation of their Connected watch. In addition to their new range of base models, TAG Heuer also launched a special Golf Edition watch, as well as a host of new coloured watches and straps. This year, the TAG Heuer Connected watch continues its time in the spotlight, with the launch of a brand new Connected Golf Edition as well as an improved Wellness App. Let’s start with some context around just how far TAG Heuer have come in the smartwatch game over the last half decade. In his review of the third generation of TAG Heuer Connected watch last year, Andrew McUtchen noted that the previous generations were like “Switzerland trying to do a California” by working on their own operating system with Intel. For the third generation however, TAG Heuer partnered with Google, allowing a market leader to work on what they do best on the software side, while TAG Heuer focused on their strengths in the hardware. The result, as Andrew put it, was “the least smartwatch feeling smartwatch I’ve ever put on”. The most important changes in…
Zenith threw a knockout punch only a few weeks ago with the new Chronomaster Sport. But CEO Julien Tornare and his team are clearly on a roll. The DEFY 21 continues the brand’s momentum with this unexpectedly colourful collaboration with a contemporary artist. The Zenith DEFY 21 Felipe Pantone finds their high-tech tool watch inhabiting a dark ceramic suit enlivened by a a laser light-show of colours. In the process, Zenith have again set new standards of material treatment in a textbook example of how to catch the attention of even the most blasé watch enthusiast. It’s great to see a brand refusing to go down the safe path, but instead attempting something that feels genuinely different. The colours here aren’t a bombardment, but are laser bright, sharp and, at the same time, delicately wrought. This is the first time Zenith has collaborated with one of the brightest stars of contemporary art, the Argentinian-Spanish artist Felipe Pantone. And judging by the transformation his touch brings, we are already hoping for more. There is something particularly charming about the way Zenith has taken the darkest version of the DEFY 21, a tough guy in the hard fought sports watch category, and…
It’s no secret that we’re big fans of the G-Shock CasiOoak and have become particularly intrigued by the modified versions. The CasiOak has quickly become the darling of everyone from first watch-wearing millennials to experienced collectors. Then it dropped. The Casioak Galaxy was a collaboration between IFL Watches and The Dial Artist (Kit Alexander) as part of a range of customised CasiOaks. The hyper-colourful Galaxy went viral like a Supreme mega-drop and became a huge hit on social media, selling out fast. Like a cheeky nod to the precious stones on a rainbow bezel Rolex, it hit the zeitgeist right between the eyes. Its rainbow-modded visage is a delectable piece of wristcandy, and a knock out from 10 feet away. But who is behind this massive hit? I was lucky enough to catch up with Kit (@thedialartist) and got the lowdown on how he got started in the modifying game where he’s carved out this bright niche. T+T: Let’s start with a bit of background. You’re known for your customisation and bespoke work on everything from Rolexes to G-Shocks with Speedmasters and Zeniths thrown in for good measure. What started it off? Kit: I had a Seiko turtle, I think…
The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania. As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and compact 34-35mm cases make them perfect dress watches. But the combination of their high value and frail mechanical movements means they often languish in display cases and safes rather than getting the daily wear they deserve. Admittedly, there is much to be said for staring mesmerised through a loupe at the busy dial of an early vintage chronograph. But what if you could have your horological cake and eat it? Furlan Marri may present the solution. The microbrand openly takes inspiration from Patek, Vacheron and the greats of the game – one of the models in the launch portfolio is the Tasti Tondi, the Italian nickname of a chronograph grail from Patek. Significantly, however, Furlan Marri’s first collection comes with a VK64 mecha quartz movement from Seiko that’s solid, dependable and accessibly priced. The upshot is that you get classic looks in a robust form…