Hiding in plain sight – 6 sleeper hit watches you might have missed
You don’t always have to look to the usual suspects or pay a hefty price to get a quality watch. There is a wide spectrum of manufacturers in this industry and, with so many releases each year, it can be a bit of a challenge to follow every reference introduced. While the below list of watches are fabricated by well known brands, we wanted to shine a spotlight on some references that may not have received the recognition they deserve. A sleeper hit is effectively something that is not massively hyped, but has a level of quality that demands further exploration. Here are six sleeper hits we included in our Now Buying Guide… Timex x Todd Snyder “Pride” Watch At 34mm, this watch can pretty much be worn by anyone, of any identity. The theme of the watch is literally pride and inclusivity. As I have said before, Todd Snyder and Timex have teamed up to create arguably the best value proposition in rainbow watches. The Pride Watch is a nod to the pride colours derived from artist Gilbert Baker’s Rainbow Flag. The dial aesthetic is is the result of three rotating coloured discs. As the time changes and the discs…
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I have made it no secret that I felt the DOXA SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers watch was snubbed in the Divers prize at the 2020 GPHG awards. I have nothing against Breitling, let me be 100% clear on that fact, but I personally felt that if the vote were left to the watch community then DOXA would have taken home the award. Doxa is known for its dive watches with a winning formula left largely unchanged over the years. The fact that their creations are effectively modern fabrications of designs of yesteryear is a testament to this fact, something only brands like Rolex have been able to do. When you have a good thing going, there is little incentive to switch things up. But when you find a way to bring innovative materials into an already great design, I believe such an achievement should be rewarded – and I believe DOXA did just that with their SUB 300 Carbon diver. The case The flying saucer-like profile of the case is iconic within the watch community and makes for a very wearable watch across wrists of varying sizes. It has a professional diameter of 42mm and thickness of 13.4mm.…
That is if I ever really had one. When it was released in 2018, the Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710 BLRO quickly cemented itself at the top of my wish list, grail list, things-I’d-kill-for-to-own list (you get the picture). It remained firmly in the realm of dreams until recently when I decided to bite the bullet and pick up one second-hand. Yes, I paid market premium and all. Cue the laughter of the lucky collectors who were able to pick one up at retail – congrats to you if you fall into this category. The only way I could make it work without living on the street was by completely detonating my entire collection and going all in on the latest iteration of Pepsi. Was it worth it? Well let’s find out. Once I put it on I felt… Relieved more than anything. Relieved that I hadn’t just jettisoned some watches I really loved for something so hyped up. I was torn internally whether to go for it. Andrew warned me off it, telling me it was more blueberry than Pepsi. As someone who has wrist-rolled his way through pretty much every important watch out there his opinion carries a lot…
When we talk about what attracts people to watches, you may typically expect the response to be the movement. But when it comes to the larger marketplace, arguably the most important element, aside from case diameter, is the dial. The dial is what catches your eye first. As much as some people jest they would want to wear a watch flipped over on their wrist to be able to see the movement at all times, intriguing dials are the first element you notice – the headline to pull you in and make you want to know the full story. Sport and tool watches are typically associated with plain dials that mean business, but in order to stand out today sometimes you need to spice things up. To begin celebrating the 60th anniversary of the brand, Sinn has introduced a new limited edition diver that presents a more interesting dial without losing the tough and reliable German engineering aesthetic they are known for. The Sinn U1 DS Limited Edition with “Grinding Dial” captures the image of a battle worn hull, its irregular decorative pattern sure to generate inquiry into the diver. The 44mm bead-blasted case is 14.7mm thick, 50.5mm lug to…
When Seiko launched their new, vintage-inspired sub range of the Alpinist, we shared the three standard models in our story here, but we’ve kept the star under wraps. Here’s the fourth smaller sibling, the limited edition SJE085 Alpinist 1959 recreation, vintage purity on a surprising bund strap. While it might look like mere tweaks to the design of the bright trio covered in our previous story, the SJE085 is, in fact, much more than mere hand-stitched leather cuff-ery. While the look is the same, the case and lugs are only for this Limited Edition, with a 36.6mm diameter versus 38mm for the standard model, and a svelte 11.1mm thickness. This is obsessively designed with a deep passion for the Seiko Laurel original, but why not before I hear you ask? Well, Seiko have been rather generous with their limited and standard diver’s watches, with only a smattering of Presage in between a strong selection of skin divers and Tuna cans. This time they’ve pushed the boat out, especially on what is a charmingly quirky chocolate-sweet bund strap, its whimsical seams and outer grooves looking like nothing else on a standard Seiko. The watch case is both a celebration of the…
We all know that pretty much any stainless-steel Rolex sports watch is insanely popular right now. In fact, there’s an unrelenting groundswell of hype around these watches that is undeniable. But do they really deserve it? One of the most prominent watches in the Professional range is the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO, which instantly commanded a long waiting list ever since it was first released back at Baselworld 2018. Sure, we know it’s a good watch, but is it actually worth the premium that it demands on the secondary market? With a 40mm stainless-steel case, red and blue Cerachrom bezel and solid-link jubilee bracelet, the Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126710 BLRO is a watch with a long history behind it. This history began in the middle of the 1950s when Rolex worked with pilots from the Pan-Am airline to develop a functional travel watch. Nearly seven decades later, the Rolex “Pepsi” GMT is still a watch in extremely high demand and its value continues to climb. Housed inside the Oystersteel case is the automatic in-house caliber 3285, which is Rolex’s most sophisticated GMT movement to date. With 70 hours of power reserve, an anti-magnetic Chronergy escapement and a temperature…
The Chanel J12 has recently been overhauled by the brand to leverage a more unisex 38mm case size. In addition, its movement is now produced by Kenissi, the joint venture between Tudor, Breitling and Chanel – the latter owning a 20% stake in the movement manufacture. The movement inside the standard J12 today is therefore the same caliber architecture you would find in a Black Bay Fifty-Eight. But the J12 watch has actually utilized an even more prestigious movement in a previous model from 2008. While not explicitly advertised, this watch used a movement supplied by none other than “holy trinity” manufacturer Audemars Piguet – the same caliber found originally in the Royal Oak Offshore and in many other of their Royal Oak watches. Eagle-eyed collectors will have already spotted the caliber in the watches name: Chanel J12 3125 ref. H2918. The use of the 3125 (3120 in Audemars Piguet watches) movement commanded a rather high retail price of over $20,000 USD when it was released. This component of the now discontinued model is the main reason why today many collectors are hunting the rare Chanel J12 3125 on the secondhand market, and why the value-retaining reference is listed for…
It’s 140 years since Seiko founder Kintaro Hattori established his first watchmaking shop in Tokyo. To mark this occasion, the Seiko designers must’ve had a craving for menthol judging by the icy cool aesthetics of the Seiko 140th Anniversary collection. Seiko 5 Sports 140th Anniversary Limited Edition SRPG47K1 Let’s kick off with the most accessible piece, a sharp Seiko 5 Sports. I sincerely feel that we now can count the 5 as the proper heir to the SKX throne with a bewildering array of colourful editions available (like the ones covered in our story here or this mad batch of Anime-infused fun). There are 11,000 of these new pieces available, but I’d still get my skates on, as this is seriously fresh. Despite its 100 metre depth rating, the lack of a screw-in crown makes this more Sports than Diver, but a bulletproof everyday wearer nonetheless. The classic Seiko bright blue diver’s hands pop off the crisp white pattern on a balanced dial that’s one of the cleanest Seiko 5 designs yet. The laser-like lume glow and needle thin blue lollipop seconds hand are sharp finishing touches to a great first mechanical sports watch. You can’t really go wrong with…
The pilot’s watch category is one of the most popular segments in the watch industry. With the number of pilot’s watches on the market, each new novelty has to be that much more strategic to figure out how to capture the hearts of buyers. To stand out, you have to be true to the design language an aviation watch requires while also weaving in fresh elements to distinguish your novelty. This is where the Oris Pro Pilot TLP Limited Edition succeeds, introducing a watch with clear aviation purpose while not rehashing familiar pilot’s designs. This limited-edition watch of 750 pieces was created in partnership with the Tactical Leadership Program (TLP), an elite pilot training school based in the Spanish city of Albacete. Founded in 1978, TLP prepares NATO allied coalition forces for worldwide tactical air operations. The 44mm gun-metal grey PVD stainless-steel case is definitely on the larger side, but fortunately the lugs have a downward slope that will work to hug the wrist better. Based on the measurement of previous generation Pro Pilot’s from Oris, I think it is safe to infer the lug to lug measurement is larger than 50mm – but not by much (within a few…