IN-DEPTH: Rebellion meets technology in the history of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept
The word “concept” is something that is often associated with the world’s most enthralling works of art. A concept album can tell a very deliberate story, or explore a particular theme or idea in wondrous detail. A concept car is usually shown to represent the pinnacle of a designer’s imagination that’s invariably watered down should it make it into production. So when Audemars Piguet announced a concept watch in 2002, what was the world to think? Does it represent some bigger idea? Can I actually buy one? Why does it need to exist? Unpacking the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept isn’t instantly intuitive, but it begins with rebellion, technology and ingenuity. If you’re unfamiliar with the story of the original Royal Oak introduction in 1972, here’s a quick debrief. Seiko unveil their quartz-powered Astron in 1969, shaking the foundations of the watch industry. As the masses flocked towards the technology for its affordable reliability, the Swiss traditionalists were brought to their knees. Many brands held on for dear life, some even releasing their own quartz offerings, but many more collapsed. Audemars Piguet realised that their struggles didn’t have to be the end, but an opportunity for reinvention. Enter designer Gérald…
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Last week it happened again. I was standing in line at a coffee shop and, of the seven people queuing, I was the only one wearing a proper watch. There were four naked wrists, one Garmin and one Apple Watch constantly buzzing and flashing. Now if we have any chance of turning this sad situation around we desperately need an injection of youth into the watchmaking industry. Is Norifumi Seki the answer? Yes, that’s serious pressure laying the entire future of the watchmaking industry on just one man. But hear me out. How many independent Japanese watchmakers do you know? In addition to Hajime Asako and his Art Deco panache, you’d be hard pressed to find many, which is one of the reasons why this story is important, especially considering the enormous power of the Asian marketplace in horology. So who is Norifumi Seki? Hailing from Tokyo and still only 23, he attended the Hiko Mizuno Jewelry College and burst onto the international scene last year as the first Asian to win the esteemed F.P Journe Young Talent Competition. Seki’s delicate Model II is the precursor to the pocketwatch that won that competition and is a brilliant example of quirky…
When you think of art in watchmaking, your mind probably turns to the painstaking creation of a cloisonné enamel dial for a Patek Philippe World Time, or the engraving of an A.Lange & Söhne balance cock. But art in watchmaking suddenly got a whole lot more accessible thanks to the Swatch x MoMA collection that was announced this week. This is the second time that MoMA and Swatch have joined forces, the first being when the watchmaker and the gallery produced three watches in the year 2000. In the latest Swatch x MoMA collection, there are six new watches, each of which depicts a different artwork that resides in the MoMA collection. The artworks include The Starry Night (1889) by Vincent van Gogh, Hope, II (1907-08) by Gustav Klimt, The Dream (1910) by Henri Rousseau, Composition in Oval with Color Planes 1 (1914) by Piet Mondrian, The City and Design, The Wonders of Life on Earth, Isamu Kurita (1966) by Tadanori Yokoo and New York (1968) by Tadanori Yokoo. If you’re a fan of the entire collection, it will be available for sale in a special box set, that includes a description of each artwork and the artist behind it.…
Rectangles, what do they mean? According to whiteriverdesign.com, these shapes represent stability. In fact, the rectangle is the most commonly used area shape in logo design. The reason for its popularity, apparently, is that it is a trusted familiar shape that represents honesty, solidity and stability. As squares and rectangles have straight lines and right angles they have a very mathematical, balanced feel. These shapes scream rationality, practicality and conformity. Rectangles are neither flashy nor attention-seeking – some may even venture they are boring – but clever designers will twist or turn them to add interest to a design. Enter the Reverso book from Jaeger-LeCoultre. That final idea of added interest is poignant when we are considering the Reverso. The fundamental concept of the Reverso rectangular case being able to turn, makes it in addition to its balanced design, a talking point. And not to mention a space for interpretation, complications and case art, from a simple monogram to lacquerwork and miniature art, something JLC has shown us over the years. Though starting out as a purely protective measure for polo players in the early 20th century, the Reverso presents another face that can remain minimalist, decorated or even surprise…
H.Moser have become central to the revival of deep fumé or degradè dial finishing. Their deep colours captivate your attention like no flat black dial ever could. In this video we check out the the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red, which certainly lives up to its colourful name. This luscious cherry cocktail offers a tasty take on the everyday sports watch. We know Moser watches from ironic haute horlogerie with their Swiss Alp series and some of last year’s most hypnotising dials with their unexpected collaboration with MB&F. But can they really do everyday? The first impressions of the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red tick my boxes in a big way. I am a dial man, always have been, and prefer coloured faces to monochrome minimalism – I just can’t help it. I also have a marked preference for three hand watches and the calm state of mind they put you in. There is something soothing about the slow cycle of the seconds hand doing its simple job and not telling you there is yet another email to process. It’s no secret that Moser have mastered the abyss-like depths of fumé and I have…
We can all get caught up in the latest news about Nautilus or the next unobtainable Rolex. But for the majority of watch buyers, the most important timepieces are those that are accessibly priced and offer a ton of value. One brand that constantly delivers in this regard is Longines, a manufacture of longstanding heritage that provides quality Swiss watches with competitive specifications and pricing. The most recent entry into their catalogue is the new Longines Silver Arrow, a watch that at $3050 AUD offers a level of quality usually found at a much higher price point. The watch is a modern revival of the Silver Arrow originally released in 1956 by Longines. The name stemmed from a contest within the company to name the watch, and among 450 proposals “Silver Arrow” was the winning moniker with the name deriving from the dominant German racing cars of the era. The case diameter has been increased from approximately 35mm to 38.5mm to cater to modern sizing tastes, but in terms of it shape and form the Longines Silver Arrow faithfully echoes the original design. The real difference to the case is its 3mm increase in width, which has resulted in slightly…
The market for stainless-steel watches with blue dials is as hot as ever. And it makes sense for brands to produce watches that meet this demand. But how many more do we really need? The Grand Seiko SBGR321 was first announced towards the end of last year as a part of their 60th anniversary releases, and I finally had the opportunity to spend some time with it in the metal recently. It certainly ticks all the boxes that the market wants: a stainless-steel case and bracelet, a 40mm diameter and, of course, an attractive blue dial. But how much does it really add to the horological landscape? And have Grand Seiko done enough to stick out from the blue steel crowd? The case The Grand Seiko SBGR321 is a part of the brand’s Heritage collection and clearly flaunts the case to match. Inspired by Grand Seiko designs of the past, the 40mm stainless-steel case features sloping flanks and lines so sharp you’re drawn to inspect them up close. The case lines are articulated clearly thanks to the even vertical brushing on the tops of the lugs and the contrasting Zaratsu-polished case sides. This contrast accentuates the visual impression of the…
Oris has always harboured a deep respect for the environment and supported efforts to protect the ocean and sea life therein. This isn’t a tokenistic move either. The brand really puts their money where their mouth is, aiming to become CO2 neutral by 2021 and incorporating recycled materials in both their watches and their packaging. In addition, Oris protects our wallets, too, consistently releasing offerings with high value at lower costs than many of their competitors, making their novelties attractive to both new and veteran watch collectors alike. Today, the brand has released their Oris Whale Shark Limited Edition, a watch based on the Oris Aquis GMT, with a a unique and eye-catching dial. So why whale sharks? The short answer is that they’re an endangered species that needs man’s help to survive. According to Oris ambassador and underwater photographer Gerardo del Villar, who has been documenting whale sharks for more than 15 years, “As top predators, sharks play an important role in the ecosystem by keeping species below them in the food chain, and as indicators of ocean health, they help to eliminate the weak and sick and to maintain balance with competitors, thus guaranteeing species diversity. Without whale…
Collaboration has become the name of the game. Be it in music, fashion or watchmaking, we’ve never seen such a diverse meeting of minds from around the world. But many collaborations leave you scratching your head, especially when two brands that have nothing in common come together to make a product that doesn’t make sense. Those strange and uncomfortably mismatched products serve as a striking contrast to those times when a partnership is, like the cereal, just right. The announcement of the new partnership between TAG Heuer and Porsche feels spot-on, not because they are both successful luxury brands in the 21st century, but because they share a rich history of involvement in motorsports. One that goes all the way back to when the Carrera Panamericana car race first ran in 1950, which makes the TAG Heuer Carrera Porsche Chronograph a natural distillation of this adrenaline-fuelled legacy. Featuring a 44mm stainless-steel case, the Heuer Carrera DNA is clear for all to see while, on the dial side of the watch, the links to motorsports are immediately obvious. Both partners are integrated here in a way that doesn’t seem remotely forced. Both Porsche and Heuer were inspired by the thrillingly dangerous…
No, not another GMT?! Well, what if we tell you that this is a 39mm piece of vintage-inspired perfection with a goldilocks-sized 38mm case and a slightly wider bezel. And that its colours are as F.R.E.S.H as only the French can make them. If you know Baltic already, you might say that this is a natural move. But Etienne Malec and his design team have still managed to surprise us with the Baltic Aquascaphe GMT. Here we have no less than three sapphire-bezelled pops of zesty wrist goodness that trigger a mix of exaltation and deep sadness in equal measure. Why sadness? Well, a GMT is all about travelling, so at first glance the combination of French flair and a colourful 50s style GMT brought me close to tears for not being able to go to the South of France last year with my family. This watch, in short, is all about going places in style. Luckily, its pitch-perfect time-traveller vibe helped to cheer me up after a few seconds. Because we will travel in 2021 and just imagine dangling your feet off a pier, the water lapping your toes and one of these vintage-infused Aquascaphes on your sun-kissed wrist.…