HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 is a true everyday hero

Baume & Mercier Clifton BaumaticThe definition of an everyday watch is one that doesn’t excel in any one particular area. It has to do everything, from jeans and hoodies, to bow ties and dinner jackets, and it has to do them all well. It needs to be noticeable yet invisible, characterful but discreet, and the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10551 with its smoked-grey dial manages to be all of those things and more.  The dial Although fumé dials are rising in popularity, this one is definitely a showstopper. The balance between the darker charcoal tones and the lighter wispy-cloud grey in the centre offers a perfect blend for the steel sword-hands, indices, and white printed details to pop with legibility without becoming garishly visible. The crosshair and Arabic numerals surrounding the minute track, along with the “5 Days – Chronometer” text, add a level of sophisticated detail that sets it apart from other dressy, everyday watches. The black-backed date wheel also doesn’t draw too much attention, with its slightly rounded window not being overcomplicated by a shiny frame. The case The Clifton Baumatic case is a masterclass in considered taste. Its bubble-like shape allows its 40mm width to be mostly occupied by the…

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5 years ago

#Kicktock: White-hot drops this week from Bamford and Nike create monochromatic magic

Bamford and NikeBamford and Nike? You read that right. It’s no secret that I am a big fan of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato. To me it’s a quietly spoken grail watch in that hotly contested category of integrated bracelet sports watches. Its slim case design and smooth ergonomic bracelet make this an easy collection favourite. So much so that it’s included in a list of Nautilus alternatives here. But now, BAM! FORD! (sorry), the lead purveyor of custom chic in collaboration with some of the biggest players of 2020, has dropped a white-hot ceramic version of the GP classic, the Laureato Ghost. To make up a killer two-watch collection, I’d pair it with the gloss-black onyx dial version we covered here. Perhaps the perfect ebony and ivory pairing.  At the same time, Hypebeast has given us the perfect new white leather kicks from Nike in matching ice-cool white and black shades with a tough rollercoaster buckle on a soft black leather strap. What at first seem like small details, transform the Timeless Nike Air into a fighting-fresh urban contender for 2020. Combining forces, we’re looking at some true monochromatic magic from Bamford and Nike.  Crisp is the word in this 1017 ALYX SM…

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5 years ago

INTRODUCING: The velvety black beauty of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black CeramicIf there is any single watch to lovingly blame for the craze of luxury sports watches with integrated bracelets, it’s the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. When initially launched in 1972, it wasn’t the beloved reference it has become today – in fact, many people were confounded by its introduction, especially given its hefty price tag in steel. Since its launch, however, the Royal Oak has taken the watch-collecting world by storm – with celebrities from The Rock to Jay-Z opting to sport the coveted timepiece. It has also undergone many evolutions; its technology endlessly upgraded with new complications and case compositions. This week the collection welcomes another novel entry in the form of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Black Ceramic. The black ceramic case is a modern 41mm in diameter, and manages to retain the exquisite hand-finished externals seen on the metallic models within the catalogue. To achieve AP’s standard of finishing on a ceramic canvas is no easy feat, but the hallowed manufacturer was more than up for the challenge. The bezel, bracelet and case maintain the rich satin brush the Royal Oak is known for, as well as the hints of high polish…

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5 years ago

VIDEO: The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a sleeper hit in the crowded retro diver field

Longines Legend Diver BronzeThe Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a noteworthy remix. It takes the tried and true, double-crown, super compressor-style case of the original and breathes fresh life into it with the new material. The warmly toned bronze eliminates all of the conservative, vintage-inspired character of its steel sibling, and dramatically increases the level of rustic charm and associated adventure. While still keeping the same 42mm case size and proportions, the design feels thoroughly refreshed in a way that’s hard to ignore.  While the new case material is the main drawcard here, the dial of the Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a feature that immediately grabs your attention. With a gradient effect that emanates from the centre of the dial, the tone shifts from a lush forest green in the middle to near-black around at the circumference. This emphasises the bronze handset, while the black rotating inner bezel acts as a frame for the contrasting green.  Longines aren’t trying to revolutionise the dive watch game with this latest release, but they are certainly offering a new and exciting take on a well-loved format. Bronze isn’t a metal that Longines use very often, so we’ll wait in anticipation to see if the warmly…

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5 years ago

INTRODUCING: All white now – the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase lightens up

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon PhaseWhen the time comes to add complications to your roster of wrist wear, Baume & Mercier is a great brand to turn to. Not only are their watches competitively priced, but they are also comparably well-built when considered alongside many of their more expensive peers. In this way, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Moon Phase 10552 ticks a lot of boxes while also bringing their in-house manufacturing nous to the party. You’re buying more than just the brand name here, you’re also getting some serious tech. The case The stainless-steel case of this watch is 42mm in diameter and a slender 13.1mm thick. Like many well-finished cases, it includes harmonious satin and polished finishes – but with a fresh twist. Normally satin dominates the surface area of the case, with hints of polish sparsely rendered throughout. In the case of the 10552, and other creations within the Clifton Baumatic line, you actually get more polished surfaces without deviating from a sporty-elegant aesthetic. All of the top front-facing facets are polished – the bezel, the lugs and their tapered bevelling. The satin aspects are introduced as the case band and the chamfer of the lug tapering. A sharp line…

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5 years ago

Review – The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 (Video)

Mostly known for its Classique watches and its range of pilot’s chronographs, Breguet has a long tradition of nautical-inspired models too. The Marine collection represents the link to a lesser-known aspect of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s history, when he was the “Horloger de la Marine”, the official supplier of chronometers to France’s Navy. Now in its third generation, […]

5 years ago

HANDS-ON: Let’s be real, the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase is stupendously good-looking

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon PhaseEveryone loves good value. It’s always nice to walk away from a purchase with the smug feeling that you got a lot more than what you paid for. One brand that consistently provides those good vibes is Baume & Mercier. They really know how to walk the fine line between luxury and accessibility and it is no secret that we at Time+Tide are genuine fans of what they have to offer. Not in general, because the brand has suffered dark patches, but specifically since they re-entered the fray with the Baumatic. Modern-day Baume & Mercier ticks a lot of boxes for prospective buyers of various backgrounds and levels of spending power. Sure, their watches are still at the mid tier, and face stiff competition, but compared to the rest of the industry, their catalogue of creations are both well priced and very well executed, when you compare them spec for spec. One stand-out example of both these characteristics is the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Automatic Day Date Moon Phase 10548. The case The stainless-steel case is 42mm in diameter and 13.2mm thick. The lugs are rather compact as well, which makes the 10548 a very wearable 42mm for most…

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5 years ago

MICRO MONDAYS: The Bravur x Wingårdh delivers Nordic modernism at its most clean and serene

Bravur x Wingardh by Bravur WatchesIn Scandinavia, our long dark winters should be a fertile breeding ground for horology. Just as the oppressive gloom sent the Swiss inside to tinker about with watchmaking tools and lathes, you might expect a similar tradition to have developed in these parts – Scandinavian design and Nordic minimalism are, after all, deeply engrained in our regional psyche. Alas, however, there are just a few watchmakers out here. Yet one that has gained traction is the Swedish brand Bravur Watches, whose clean-cut designs set it apart from the barrage of microbrands. Their latest offering, the Bravur x Wingårdh Limited Edition, epitomises the brand’s mid-century modernist style in the form of a quietly spoken dress watch that oozes understated Nordic elegance.  Bravur specialises in refined dress watches with a minimalist vibe that encompass an array of Swiss-made quartz and automatic watches in the Goldilocks sizes of 38 and 39mm. You’ll find the watches usually fitted on soft leather two-stitch straps with a tempting monogram option and a dial with an inner minute track. This time, Bravur has collaborated with famed architect Gert Wingårdh and his son, the award-winning designer Rasmus Wingårdh, for a fresh take on the dress watch. The Bravur…

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5 years ago

The best pilot watches of 2020 over $10K, feat. Rolex, IWC and Breitling

best pilot watches of 2020 over $10kSome of us love diver’s watches, some skeletonised dress watches. But no matter what you do — driving a truck or stuck behind a desk — maybe nothing is more tempting in watches than the world of aviation, whether it be invoking the adventurous spirit of WWII dogfights, or the memories of Top Gun. You might actually fly a twin-prop Cessna and rely on the infallibility of a top-tier pilot’s watch to back you up in an emergency. Here is a top 5 of the best, from high-tech weapons-grade ceramic to aged black steel with rose gold accents. Chocks away as we look at a few of the best pilot watches of 2020 over $10K, and yes, you will notice that we have expanded the category to include all sky-dwellers that turn left when they enter the plane. IWC Top Gun ‘SFTI’ Edition Big, bold, tough and black. Story done. Sorry, if you don’t know your pilot’s watches from divers, this might be your first impression, but look closely and the tool expertise of IWC quickly becomes apparent, from pure functionality to the sharp pop of red detail. A silky smooth case of ceramic and IWC’s own Ceratanium — yes, it does what…

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5 years ago

Stealth-help: Seiko creates kick-ass new collection inspired by Naruto’s anime ninjas

Seiko 5 Sports NARUTONaruto is one of the biggest-selling manga series in history, selling 250 million copies worldwide. The Japanese anime series followed the adventures of a young ninja, Naruto Uzumaki, while a spin-off series, Boruto, subsequently focused on Naruto’s son. The shows’ all-action exploits have now inspired Seiko to create a new collection of seven watches based on some of the central characters from the show. Before we dig into the distinct characteristics of each reference, let’s dig into the elements they all have in common. The watches are essentially variations on the Seiko 5 Sports watch that’s widely regarded as a great first watch for budding collectors. More importantly in this instance, it’s a top option for any self-respecting ninja due to the watch’s high degree of resistance to shock and daily wear. Each of the seven cases are made of stainless steel, have dimensions of 42.5mm in diameter and 13.4mm in thickness, and have a protected crown at the 4 position. You will find a day-date complication at the 3 position on every model as well. They are all powered by the robust Seiko manufacture automatic Caliber 4R36, with 24 jewels, 41-hour power reserve, and a hacking second hand (take…

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5 years ago