VIDEO: Our favourite references from the IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection
The momentum IWC generated in 2019 has continued unimpeded this year, with a slightly dressier focus. Here, we’re treated with the reinvigoration of the stoic, masculine, yet classy line in the new IWC 2020 Portugieser Collection. With the Portugieser Chronograph, IWC have stuck with their attitude of evolution over revolution, upgrading all of the regular production models with the new in-house calibre 69355 column-wheel chronograph movement — a visceral treat for the eyes when viewed through the display caseback. Three new sunburst dial variations are captivating, with the steel case offering a mossy-forest green or a rich oxblood red, and an 18k yellow gold case flaunting a classic navy blue. The Portugieser Automatic 40 brings a touch of refined, yet not understated, simplicity in a well-proportioned package. The steel-cased and white-dialled variant is available with either blue or gold hands and markers, while the blue dial’s steel highlights are clean and crisp. Should you want something that suits the dressier side of life, there is also a model in 18k gold. The fun doesn’t stop with the simpler sides of the collection, either, as the highly-complicated Perpetual Calendars and Yacht Club Chronograph models have all made an impact upon their…
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Once again, I am confused, seriously confused. When I’d finally sussed out the language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve. Not entirely new, but even after being out for almost a year it still astounds me when I get my hands on it, and here it delights with a new alluring blue dial. The H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph is different from, well, everything. While legacy brands tweak their tried and tested icons by 1mm, that well-lit safe path is not for Edouard Meylan, CEO of H. Moser. Difference, innovation, and the unlikely term, irony. Here, instead of homage, we have retro futurism. First Impressions The expression curvilinear replaces angular. I must confess I run the risk of repeating my own gushing enthusiasm for the case and bracelet, as I was lucky enough to spend time with the apple green splendour of the latest Streamliner in my story here. Images are one thing, but nothing will prepare you for the sheer ‘otherness’ of the mini-tank-armadillo-like convex (let’s make production extra difficult!) bracelet. This flows into a poetic vision of streamlined form, and turning into an alien Bullhead chronograph, with an added large crown at 4 o’clock.…
I had a secret wish this autumn, which was the intricate dial structure of the Seiko Presage Sharp Edged series filtering into the round case Presage range, and here we are, perfectly paired with a Milanese mesh strap instead of a bracelet. The Seiko Presage series is well known for the Cocktail Time series, glossy dials saturated with colours and the simple elegance of applied indices. The new Seiko Presage SRPF37J and SRPF39J bring a few welcome design twists, including the ever-evolving dial art of Seiko with a hypnotising pattern. First impressions What strikes you first when trying on these two references is the near perfect case size of 38.5mm, which, with a slim 11.75mm thickness, equates to pure delight. These two come on an elegant Milanese mesh, giving you a much softer feel than a normal bracelet. It drapes around the wrist with a silky metallic touch, while being a great formal alternative to leather in the warmer climes of summer. As both references also come with a leather strap, you have your sartorial choices sorted, with both versions coming with a welcome quick-release for an easy match-up to your outfit and mood of the day. The case Seiko…
Watches and aviation have long been on the same flight path, with multiple timepieces made specifically to take to the skies. Without aviation, for example, we would not have the historic Cartier Santos – named after Alberto Santos-Dumont, the pilot who requested its creation. Known for their larger cases and high degree of legibility, pilot’s watches have attracted many buyers over the years who’ve never ventured anywhere near a cockpit. But whether you’re a budding Top Gun or permanently grounded, these are the best pilot watches of 2020 under $10K. Longines Spirit 40mm blue dial on leather strap The Spirit 40 from Longines is like an album where every song is a hit – it just strikes all the right notes. At 40mm, it has a nice modern case size and is water resistant to 100m with a screw-down crown. Underneath the anti-reflective coated sapphire crystal is a highly legible and rich blue dial with a magnificent sunburst gradient texture. While some will always fret over the aesthetic of a date-window, the date disc perfectly matches the blue dial and blends harmoniously with minimal interruption. There’s 64 hours of power reserve, thanks to its reliable movement, upgraded with a silicon…
The Longines Legend Diver Bronze is a pitch-perfect, vintage-style diver. Yet somehow it’s failed to get the attention it deserves due, in part, because understatement is the name of its game. While the Rado Captain Cook turns heads with its lush colourways and the Oris Divers Sixty-Five makes noise with its ever-changing iterations, this bronze diver plays things down and allows its impressive looks to slowly take hold of your psyche. By the time you finally notice it, well, it’s already too late. You’re completely under its spell. First impressions If you are intrigued by the charm of bronze, but have been put off by the narrow choice of monstrous tool watches and colourful skin divers, this might be your ticket into the world of patina. The revitalised Longines Legend Diver offers a more formal approach to the vintage diver game, and brings a suited-up vibe to the game, more evocative of marine chronometers than scuba gear and speedboats. The case for bronze Longines have delivered a strong year achieving the balancing act of heritage with modernism better than most. The softly spoken Legend Diver is a superb example of the former. It plays with the early ’60s language of…
The Omega Speedmaster is one of the most celebrated watches of the last half-century, in part because of the countless different versions the brand has released. But in a world where a limited-edition Speedmaster isn’t a new thing anymore, is the watch community still interested in another new release? This watch has put it beyond any doubt. Absolutely, yes, they are. People can’t get enough of the latest Snoopy Speedy, with waitlists stretching around the figurative block as people line up to strap one to their wrist. But what makes the latest Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary so exciting? Let’s take a closer look. Most people will know the Omega Speedmaster was worn by NASA astronauts during the space race in the late 1960s, and even worn on the moon itself. This lunar heritage kickstarted the Speedmaster stampede with thousands of collectors around the world. What is less well known is how the watch saved the lives of astronauts during the near disastrous Apollo 13 mission in 1970. After an oxygen tank exploded, crippling the Service Module, John L. “Jack” Swigert relied upon the Speedmaster’s chronograph function to time a critical 14-second rocket burn that enabled him to…
Just as IWC overhauled their Pilot’s collection in 2019, this year is all about the Portugieser collection for the Schaffhausen-based brand. While there are more than a dozen new references within the 2020 lineup, there’s one particular piece that not only captures the new direction of the collection but also encapsulates what IWC does so well as a watchmaker. We’re talking, of course, about the IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42 Boutique Edition, a watch that is both thoughtfully designed and offers a nod to the game-changing work that Kurt Klaus did on perpetual calendar calibers at IWC in the 1980s. This latest expression of the calendar watch features a 42mm case made from 5N gold, which is as warmly toned as it is resistant to wear. The attractive looks are supplemented with the reassuring physical heft of strapping a large gold watch onto your wrist. Despite the head-scratching complexity of the Caliber 82650 powering this watch, the case sits a hair under 14mm off your wrist, which is comfortable and balanced. Another engineering feat that IWC has achieved is that the entire calendar can be set via the crown instead of by the recessed pushers often found on the cases…
Watch consumers are always looking for a fresh new face to add to their wrists and collections. The irony, however, is we also tend to flock to familiar designs – references we believe are iconic. So how do we solve this problem? As per usual, Bamford has the answer. The Bamford Watch Department is known for taking watches to a whole new level, providing incredible makeovers to timepieces that leave some wondering how it was not made a production model in the first place. Today, TAG Heuer and Bamford once again team up with the new TAG Heuer Aquaracer Bamford Limited Edition (click here to purchase). The case, made of grade 2 titanium, is 43mm in diameter. With an approximate lug to lug of 49mm, the case size should not pose a problem for smaller than average wrists. The unidirectional rotating bezel matches the case, in grade 2 titanium, and has a orange triangle pip at 12 with a 60-minute scale. It’s dodecagon-shaped bezel creates easy to grip angles, which enhance the tactile experience when in use. The only component of the case not fabricated in titanium is its stainless-steel screw-down crown. The crown, along with its screw-down caseback, gives…
The new Omega Speedmaster ‘Silver Snoopy Award’ 50th Anniversary is many things, but limited in numbers it is not. That’s right, for the first time ever, the brand has released a non-limited edition Snoopy Speedy. For many collectors who missed out on the other two references – released in 2003 and 2015 – this is an exciting opportunity to own a part of the history that Omega and NASA share, a history that was first celebrated 50 years ago. But while the news of the normal production run is big, what the watch itself has to offer is also significant. The silver dial contrasts strongly against the navy blue sub-dials and bezel, and the 42mm stainless-steel case serves up everything you would expect from a modern Speedmaster. But the party really starts when you look at the caseback, where Omega have built a mechanical animation that shows Snoopy circling the moon in his own lunar module. This is a complication we’ve never seen from Omega before and we’re thrilled they’ve decided to use the depth of their watchmaking knowledge to bring to life one of the most beloved cartoon characters of the last half-century. But the Silver Snoopy Award also signifies…
More than 50 years ago, an aviation team led by pilot Tom Lecky-Thompson embarked on what they referred to as codename “Blue Nylon”. So, what was the top-secret project? The group was making preparations for Lecky-Thompson’s attempt to enter the Transatlantic Air Race in 1969, which involved pilots flying from London all the way to New York. The pilot would go on to win the race, successfully flying his Harrier XV741 across the Atlantic to take home first prize. In honour of this accomplishment, AVI-8 has released its second limited-edition with the AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon. The case The dark stainless steel case is 44mm in diameter, 13.5mm thick, and spans 52mm lug to lug across the wrist – which, while not super compact, is reasonable for its size. The tapered lugs of the AVI-8 Hawker Harrier Blue Nylon Limited Edition introduce a deep carved polished bevel that introduces a hint of vintage-inspired elegance to the predominantly sporty satin case. The taper and angle of the lugs will also ensure it snugly fits around the wrist. To honour the Transatlantic Race that inspired the watch, as well as Lecky-Thompson’s airborne feat, the caseband has the plane’s takeoff and landing…