The Oysterflex Bible – every Rolex Oysterflex reference, named and rated
We all know only too well how a Rolex Oyster or Jubilee bracelet embraces the wrist unlike any other assembly of steel parts available. It’s a watch bracelet with the feel of silk. Lesser common an experience is the sampling of an Oysterflex bracelet, Rolex’s version of a rubber strap. At the time it was released, the brand stridently avoided that description, by the way. We must mention neither the war, nor rubber. Back then, it seemed like typical watch industry doublespeak – where every commoner material is granted a loftier title. That is, until it was in the hand; Rolex was perfectly right . Through typical – and utterly masterful – over-engineering, the brand succeeded in elevating the whole concept of rubber strap to another level. Since then, it’s become a ‘Flex by name, and a flex by nature – this is every current Rolex Oysterflex reference, in one handy place. The beginning of the Oysterflex story With its debut in 2015 on the 40mm and 37mm Yacht-Master, it made Rolex fun, dare we say it, even ‘urban’ and thereby captured a younger audience in the process. This was at the very dawn of ‘Athleisure’, and the tracksuited, Yeezy…
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Editor’s note: If a picture tells a thousand words, then we should just drop these shots right here and dispense with the written review. Jason Reekie, our main man, has absolutely nailed these, and honoured some exceptionally imaginative, detail-oriented and captivating dial work. Seiko’s ascension, with a little help from their friends at Grand Seiko one can’t help but think, continues apace. In a blessed year for Seiko, they return with yet another sharp take in the form of the Seiko SRPE39K Save The Ocean Special Edition, a new “King Turtle” with a blue degradè dial and stingray motif. Every year since we first saw the introduction of the annual Save The Ocean models, Seiko keeps improving on the now evergreen references in their solid Prospex diver’s series, and here is the gorgeous new blue dial version of the “Turtle”, reference SRPE39K. This is a watch that many years after its debut still keeps turning up regularly on top lists for a reason. The magic of Seiko watch case ergonomics is strikingly evident in the fan-named Turtle series, and I dare say no one else makes a 45mm case that wears at least 3mm smaller on the wrist with such…
For watches released this year, blue has definitely been a trending dial colour. Tudor, Panerai, Montblanc, and more have all released blue watches this year – making it hard to stand out in its usage. H. Moser & Cie, however, is always up to the challenge and continually preserves its status as a pioneering haute luxury brand that understands how to mix fun with haute horology. After all, this is the brand that made a watch out of Swiss cheese as well as took a direct shot/jab at the Apple Watch with its Swiss Alp watch – a clever, playful, and artistic expression of the state of watches in the world. The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Funky Blue Black Edition is proof that blue can still be a fresh colour in the watch world and on our wrists. The dial The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Funky Blue Black Edition is a blue-dialled watch that stands out among the rest with its gorgeous fumé finish – a signature skill of the brand. There is also an amazing sunburst graining to the dial that further elevates the depth and complexity of a seemingly simple dial. There are no numerals on the dial,…
While I have my loupe on and shirtsleeves turned up, consider this article an appointment with a hypnotist. Because, in my opinion, there is a pressing need to reset the preconceptions of the ‘Holy Trinity’, and to call out the desire created by inaccessibility for what it really is: which is FOMO. Not being able to have things. How it makes us want to have things. But the three-watch comparison we have created here is not a setup with a predetermined outcome. Perhaps, after all, we should leave existing structures of worship intact. Perhaps the ‘Trinity’ is timeless? Untouchable? The Bulgari Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel that emerged in January this year is the perfect contender to shake up the dream team duo. Finally, there is a more casual, and more capable, steel version of the Octo Finissimo priced to sell, with its virtual gloves on, ready to contest the Sports Integrated Championship belt. The contender will go up against the two icons, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref.15202 (not pictured in the hand, that’s a 15500) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711, at double and four times the price. A tall order? Let’s see… The case of the Nautilus…
This has been a bountiful year for the horologically inclined, and full of surprises. We have gone shopping with the virtual Time+Tide gold credit card, and found what we think might be five of the best watches under $3kUSD in 2020. It is an eclectic selection, from established microbrands to tough divers and a flyweight re-edition from Bulgari. The choices are diverse, if not easy to make. A fool might suggest to double your budget and take two home, but play your cards right and your budget might stretch further than you think. Grand Seiko SBGP005 Yes, the first watch here has got a quartz movement, and I’m very happy to admit it is also my debut as a quartz fan, as a Grand Seiko quartz movement is something very special. But what we notice first is, of course, the Japanese mastery of case finishing and dial details. The term “Luxury Quartz”, coined by Nick Kenyon in our story on the SBGP005 here, might still be contradictory to some, but is spot-on for this vision in dark blue and steel that punches way above its weight. The case is the classic strong-sided design we know well, giving us that…
For many watch enthusiasts, a somewhat paradoxical feeling can begin to set in after collecting for a little while. The more watches you collect, buying and selling different pieces in the pursuit of the perfect collection, the more a quiet voice in the back of your head says, “What if you just have one watch that does it all?” But what could be the one watch that satisfies everything you might need from a daily wear? It’s an incredibly personal question, but for most, there are a couple of elements you would need. Of those, the new Grand Seiko SBGE253 ticks a lot of boxes. Let’s take a closer look. The case Two of the most important elements for a daily watch: does it look good, and is it comfortable on the wrist? The stainless steel case is nicely balanced, using the classic Grand Seiko design language of sloping case sides and lugs and razor-sharp lines that articulate the blend of polished and brushed finishes. The four o’clock crown is another signature from the Japanese watchmaker, sacrificing some of the symmetry of the case for a more ergonomic position that won’t dig into the back of your wrist. The case…
Omega’s lines between utility and luxury are ever-blurring, and increasingly confusing to people who like to categorise watches into strict genres and tropes. The truth is, the centuries-old Swiss powerhouse is constantly proving that you can have high-performance, high-specification and high-flex wristwatches without spending anywhere near as much as the competition. More to the point: if you want one, you can actually walk into a boutique and buy one. The Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph Gold Titanium Tantalum is just the latest piece of evidence that Omega’s momentum isn’t stopping anytime soon. The overall impression of the watch is far from shy. As much as Omega tends to keep one classy step ahead of the word ‘gaudy’, this tri-metal beast certainly comes close. The embossed and stippled surface of the Sedna gold bezel is positively glitzy, creating an intense texture that not only adds a tactile satisfaction but also plays with the light in a rather glamorous way. The ring of tantalum, which forms the scalloped bezel, is certainly one of the most distinctive grey-toned metals in existence — the nearly pastel-blue tones neatly tying the case together with the navy blue wave dial, which extends the watch’s wrist presence all…
I’m a vintage diver enthusiast, embracing smaller diameters, but still with a predilection for tough tools, even — don’t tell anyone — with a bespoke shirt and a suit. Grand Seiko have single-handedly restored my faith in dress watches in 2020, with their Elegance series having several new references in what is a superb case. The Grand Seiko SBGW264 is another case (and dial) in point, and for me just another sign that the dress watch is alive and well, and speaks the Japanese language. The exquisite case shape in the Grand Seiko Elegance line has a language all of its own, a Japanese dictum that tells us that there is a golden ratio of case design between a circle and a cushion. This comes together with a Goldilocks-like 39mm size, and the typical Seiko language of strong sides embracing a polished bezel. Yet, in the Elegance series we have a more gentle flow of line, which accentuates the dial shape and remains delicate with an 11.6mm thickness. When paired with 18k rose gold on a crocodile strap, the lines of the SBGW264 become even more pronounced, yet warmer, with the unmatchable glow of Zaratsu-polished gold. But, let’s face it, the…