The Best Dials of 2020 – Part 1
Me, I’m a dial man. Don’t get me wrong, I love a sharp bevelled case and intricate movements, but what gets me first is the face of the watch. Here we’ll look at 10 examples – over two stories, the second of which to follow in the coming days – of dial faces that could launch a thousand watch enthusiasts. Into bliss. From minimalist craftsmanship in precious metals to microbrand vitreous enamel, these are the best of the best. There’s no need to underline the fact that 2020 has been a dramatic year, with a sharp downturn for the Swiss watch industry as a whole, not to mention the dreaded C-word. In spite of this, we have had a plethora of brilliant, and wholly unexpected, releases from brands both large and small. The best thing of all? Not all of the brands that make the list are the usual suspects. It has taken a crisis for several of the lesser knows to truly shine and show their stripes. And fumé and sunray, and vertical brushwork, and… Chopard Alpine Eagle two-tone I was lucky enough last year to have the Chopard Alpine Eagle as a weekend guest, and I’ll happily admit…
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Yes, it’s a very bold opening line. In fact, this is no boldr (sorry!) than a simple statement of the facts, should you sum up the parts, starting with a titanium watch with 200m water resistance for under $300 USD including shipping. Boldr Supply Co. is an established microbrand with five watch lines, and a solid community following of their watches and accessories for the self-categorised Urban Explorer. The two questions you’re likely to ask yourself: How is it possible to have a stock model in titanium with a low might-never-happen-Kickstarter project price? Is the compact field watch that is the Venture, worth more than the sum of its parts, or is there a caveat? The case If I stack up the specs first, you are going to check the date for April 1st, I can assure you. So, let’s start with the case being titanium. In this price bracket you’ll find a host of decent microbrands in steel, some with Chinese catalogue cases, and rather large for 2020, quartz powered, or having a vintage diver vibe. None of this applies to the Venture, a small, modern, minimalist field watch, with the bonus of a confidence-inspiring and dive-ready 200m WR.…
Editor’s note: Thor’s story earlier today about the battle of the Girard-Perregaux Laureatos sent me back in time to my own Laureato experience. And it’s not an entirely happy one. Because it involves me doing perhaps my biggest ever U-turn. But the story gets even more awkward. Because shortly after writing this review, and then reading the story on Time+Tide (luxuriating once again in Jason Reekie’s startling pics) I called a local dealer (Hi, Bernard), arranged an inspection, and the rest was history. How do I feel about it a year later? The force remains strong. I love it now more than I did then. Many nuances have revealed themselves over time, but perhaps best of them is the brushed steel of both the case and bracelet. It emanates a duller grey lustre than many super shiny steel sports watches, which belies a toughness that gives you confidence. You put it on – noting as always the silky wrist feel of the bracelet and 904L steel – and you’re up for just about anything. Ok, so there’s the twist in the tale, at the top of the story. Read on! When it came up that a review of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato was on the…
If you were to pick Girard-Perregaux’s Jekyll & Hyde, this would be the pair of watches that fit the bill; the Laureato 38mm and the Laureato Absolute Chronograph. Girard-Perregaux is a distinguished but quiet presence on the horological scene, and have a history whose shadow and depth extends well beyond the brand’s current day reputation. And when we are talking about the modern era and the category du jour: steel sports watch with integrated bracelets, GP are well and truly in the game with the Laureato range, reissued in 2017, based on the 1975 hit. This, however, is a tale of two brothers separated at birth, one being raised as the pampered prince-to-be in the castle, slim and perfectly honed. His more menacing namesake has spent life growing up in the dark dungeons below, training to be a gladiator, strong as an ox with a dark brooding presence. The nobility of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato 38mm The 38mm Girard-Perregaux Laureato is a watch that, for me, has that enviable quality of instantly feeling at home on the wrist, and like many sub-40mm models, it will undoubtedly make you reconsider the larger pieces in your collection. The Laureato 38mm with a silver…
The Arctic is a tough environment with long dark winters, where the isolation breeds creativity and a certain strict code of design, whether they be the toughest tool watches or classic dress pieces in a Scandinavian pared-down aesthetic. Regardless of the style of watch, there is a design language that defines the Nordic region. Here are five of the best Scandinavian watch brands out there, and some of their best known models. 5 of the best Scandinavian watch brands Linde Werdelin Oktopus MoonLite – a tough tool with an astronomic twist The masters of Nordic tools, Linde Werdelin, originate from Denmark, the southernmost country in this group of sub-arctic horology, well known for watches always shaped by function – and with a sharp eye for cutting-edge design and material quality. Never a classic shape or a cream-coloured lume plot, and all the better for it. Their brutalist chunk of a diver, the Oktopus has here been reimagined in their own alloy, ALW, which is half the weight of titanium, yet twice the strength of steel, due to an innovative surface treatment, making it large but feeling svelte. It is no small watch, at 44mm x 46mm with a 15mm height,…
Collectively, a decent amount of people were shocked when Longines decided to revive the Spirit appellation earlier this year … and shocked in a good way. You see, as far as novelty unveilings go, the Saint-Imier watchmaker had already outdone themselves in 2020 (think Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946 or HydroConquest 41mm in Khaki Green), they could’ve just put their feet up, cracked themselves a crisp Swiss lager and called it a day. But they didn’t. Instead, Longines set its sights on the sky, creating a collection of timepieces that aimed to honour the mavericks of early 20th century aviation. After all, although most won’t know it, airborne rebels like Amelia Earhart, Elinor Smith, Howard Hughes and Paul-Émile Victor all relied on Longines timekeeping devices when embarking upon their respective pioneering endeavours. Now, that may well have been what the watchmaker set out to accomplish with the Spirit. Oddly, though, most of the new collection doesn’t feel particularly like a pilot’s watch. Sure, it possesses some stylistic traits characteristic of an aviation-themed timepiece, but to label it as such is almost too limiting. In essence, what Longines has actually done with its revived moniker is create one of the most compelling…
Omega shows no signs of stopping when it comes to James Bond special editions, despite Bond showing no signs of showing up for 2020. Last year we saw the release of a Seamaster Diver 300M jam-packed with nods to 007’s heritage as a celebration of the 50th anniversary of On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Now, although it’s technically been 51 years, we are treated to this spectacle, the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Platinum, which is a similar watch, lavishly cased. The spiral-dial motif is a throwback to one of the earliest Bond special editions, an SMP from 2006 celebrating the re-birth of Bond in Casino Royale. This time embedded in a glossy black enamel dial, the 18k white gold rifling perfectly complements the tones of the case and the black leather strap, which is completed by contrasting metallic stitching. Similarly to the previous On Her Majesty’s Secret Service 50th anniversary editions, the 12 o’clock marker is decorated with a reference to the Bond coat of arms, and the 10 o’clock luminous marker has the number 50 hidden within the paint, only to be seen when the glow comes to life. The specific production number of the watch is engraved on…
When we first caught wind that Longines was going to be releasing a totally new collection in 2020, we were very excited. They are a brand with a number of strongly performing collections that could easily see them sitting on their haunches, simply tweaking the recipe of their success with different dial variations, but they didn’t. Longines took the far bolder path and, with the launch of their latest Spirit collection, offer fans of the brand a blend of rich aviation heritage and contemporary watchmaking expertise. In this regard, the Longines Spirit collection is a first, drawing inspiration from a breadth of sources that are equally grounded in their past and present success. The Longines Spirit collection is already well-rounded, offering a range of dial, strap and size options. In total, there are 18 different references within the collection, which are focused on three cores. There are two time-and-date references in both 40mm and 42mm, and there is also a 42mm chronograph for those who prefer complication. All of these watches are available with a black, silver or blue dial, and are also available on either a bracelet or leather strap, completing the range of choices. Longines Spirit collection price and…