HANDS-ON: This Rado Golden Horse 1957 is one of the best watches of 2019
2019 has spawned a literal plethora of new watches for all us timekeeping enthusiasts out there in the horological ether to enjoy. And while not all of them have been unmitigated successes *cough, cough*, the best watches of the year, in my opinion, have been the rather large assortment of reissue and homage pieces. Chief among these new reinterpretations of classic watches is Rado’s Golden Horse collection. First released in 1957, the Golden Horse represented a convincing interpretation of a go-anywhere, do-anything wristwatch that adhered to the fundamentals that make up a ubiquitous timepiece. Reintroduced in early 2019, the new Golden Horse collection picks up where the original left off, and let me start by clearing something up from the get-go: there isn’t a single bad model in the new Golden Horse Collection – they are all very impressive watches, especially when you consider the price point. But, personally, anecdotally, this limited edition 1957 is the best new Golden Horse. Sporting a highly polished 36.5mm stainless steel case that stays very true to the original watch’s dimensions, this rarified timepiece is straight-up gorgeous. The concentrically patterned, shimmering glossy black dial is an utter joy, and the way it manages to…
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Created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s prolific Spring Drive movement, SBGY002 is a limited edition dress watch for discerning fans of the Japanese watchmaker’s signature snowflake dial. Hewn from solid 18k yellow gold, the case of the rarified timepiece is signature SBGY and, as a result, measures in at just 38.5mm and 10.2mm, ensuring that it will more than comfortably fit under even the tightest of cuffs. The dial is nothing short of mesmerising, with the famed textured snowflake aesthetic doing what it does best — leaving the wearer in complete awe regarding the level of intricacy and detail. The dial is complemented by a solid 18k yellow gold implementation of Grand Seiko’s classic dauphine hour and minute hands, while, perhaps strangely, the seconds hand is blued steel. And while I admit there was a hint of trepidation about the almost jarring contrast between yellow and blue when I first saw images of the SBGY002, the dichotomy of colours works wonders in the flesh. Powering the dress watch is the Japanese firm’s Calibre 9R31, which is skilfully crafted by hand in the watchmaker’s Shinshu watch studio, which, incidentally, is where the first-ever spring drive movement was created.…
Ever since its shock unveiling at Baselworld 2017, Rado’s exciting range of Captain Cooks has represented a compelling proposition for anyone who’s in the market for a solid, fit-for-purpose dive watch on a budget. However, most of the collection is on the larger size, measuring in at a fashionable and contemporary 42mm. Fans fond of the original Captain Cook, which was first unveiled in 1962, shouldn’t fear however, because those who are after a smaller and more faithful reinterpretation of the Captain Cook need look no further than the limited edition ref. R32500315. Possessing the same exact dimensions as the first Captain Cook, the diminutive limited edition timepiece’s stainless steel case measures a period-correct 37.3mm across. The vintage aesthetics don’t stop there, though, as this watch also sports a gorgeous sunburst bronze dial that harkens back to the ’60s aesthetic, as does the fauxtina-lumed hour indices and accompanying handset, which comes complete with an exacting oversized arrow head of the hour hand. The vintage-inspired case is capped with a highly domed sapphire crystal, which is treated with an anti-reflective coating, ensuring legibility no matter the conditions. As a result of the crystal sitting proud of the case itself, and contrasting…
USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it — they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied robustness, A. Lange & Söhne and their prolific levels of movement finishing, or Patek Philippe and their ability to make a steel sports watch so damned hard to purchase. What these USPs translate to, most importantly, is sales – if a brand is considered to be the pinnacle in a discipline of watchmaking, they will always be desirable. Grand Seiko’s USP is their dials – in the eyes of many, including my own, they represent the zenith of the horological industry in both design and finishing. No word of a lie, you need to look at their dials through a loupe to properly appreciate the aesthetic, craftsmanship and attention to detail on offer with these timepieces. Made to mimic the snow that falls around Grand Seiko’s Shinshu watch studio –the birthplace of the marque’s fabled Spring Drive movement – the Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake Blue…
Editor’s note: Almost all reissues of vintage timepieces have an exciting story to tell – that’s just the way it is, otherwise watchmakers wouldn’t bother remaking. Thing is, though, when a watch manufacturer does decide to create an homage timepiece, they usually have the original in their possession. That was not the case when Longines was first shown the original version of their now famed Avigation BigEye. Seriously, the brand had no idea the watch existed — they didn’t have a single example of it in their museum; they only found out because a keen Longines collector brought the watch to their attention. Boy oh boy though, was Longines happy they did, because the tribute timepiece they created went on to win GPHG’s ‘Revival Watch Prize’ in 2017. It’s hands down one of the nicest pilot’s watches the Swiss firm has ever produced. By now it should come as no surprise that Longines is a master when it comes to heritage reissues. The company has a proven track record almost as long and distinguished as its actual archives. From the Legend Diver through to the COSD and the Heritage 1945, the Saint-Imier brand rarely puts a foot wrong when it comes to vintage-themed…
Editor’s note: It may surprise the uninitiated to read this, but creating a completely new calibre, in-house, from scratch, is a very, very costly exercise. And there’s a reason that most boutique and micro watchmakers stick to third-party movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita, because to make their own movements is financially unviable. That’s why this Nomos Tangente is so impressive, because the German marque has spent millions upon millions of euros to create their own calibre – DUW 6101. At the end of last year, we were lucky enough to go hands-on with this impressive timepiece and see the movement in action, and these were our initial thoughts. Surely there is no more contentious complication in the world of watchmaking than a seemingly humble date display? It’s hard to believe that something so useful, and seemingly ubiquitous, can be so divisive. One way to end the date/no date feud is to include it, but with a twist. And a twist is certainly what the Tangente neomatik 41 Update offers. The date is shown in the radial fashion, at the outermost extremity of the dial — already alleviating the issue of a dial-disfiguring date window, and working with…
Much as it pains me to admit it, these days, haute horology is usually reserved for the rarified and uber-expensive micro-brands of the Swiss watchmaking world. It’s not that the heavyweights of the industry have completely given up on the idea of innovation – far from it – but it does seem as though there’s been a shift, that priorities have changed. A timepiece’s movement was once the perennial final frontier for the majority of the watchmaking industry. In fact, throughout the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries there were countless new and innovative movements being spawned on a regular basis. However, now it feels as though most of the mainstays are largely content with the fairly antiquated fundamentals of movements, and are instead focusing on perfecting them, rather than creating completely new concepts – evolution over revolution. That’s why the TAG Heuer Monaco V4 was such a shock to the industry’s collective system when it was first unveiled in 2004. The Swiss marque again stunned everyone when in 2009 they unveiled the limited edition Monaco V4 in Platinum. And here are three reasons why it still conjures astonishment and awe in the horological fraternity: The Calibre V movement Designed to…