Review – Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 (Incl. VIDEO)

The third ultra-thin tourbillon model to join Breguet’s Classique family in 2019, the reference 5395, is about as anachronic as they come. Unlike the former references, with their classic dials and large aperture for the off-centred tourbillon, this watch has been stripped of every last vestment. There is nothing, literally, between the spectator and the […]

6 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10436 White Dial

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 104362019 is the year of the blue dial. Doesn’t matter if it’s a steel sports watch, solid gold dress watch or a one-off pièce unique – if you want your wrist flex to be as en vogue as a pair of R.M. Williams and beige chinos, a timepiece with a blue dial is the only way to go. And, as we discovered not too long ago, Baume & Mercier’s attempt at this trend with the Clifton Baumatic is a particularly choice implementation of the popular aesthetic. But what happens if you’re a massive fan of the svelte, stainless steel dress watch and all that it has to offer, but not of the fleeting, flavour of the month vibes of a blue dial? Well, you buy this, the white dial iteration of the Clifton Baumatic – ref. 10436. Now, although these two models are identical on paper, the change from blue to white dial is quite profound – swapping date night dressiness for boardroom bravado. Thanks to the sobering glossy white tones and opposing black accents, this watch presents a much more sophisticated appearance … more pared back and restrained, especially when attached to its contrasting black alligator leather band. And…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02

Tag Heuer Monaco Calibre Heuer 02Of the hundreds of thousands of wristwatches that have been created over the last century, how many are truly iconic? The answer: honestly, not many … not many at all. Candidly, there are probably fewer than 50 timepieces of the last 100 years that can claim to have had an impact on the zeitgeist of the horological industry. TAG Heuer’s Monaco is one of those watches – it captured a time and place in history so resolutely (think Steve McQueen and Le Mans) that it continues to be lauded to this day. However, this icon is in the midst of a pivotal transition. You see, it’s the Monaco’s 50 birthday this year, and just like you and I will experience a mid-life crisis, it too is going through some serious changes. It hasn’t gone out and bought itself a Porsche and eloped with its secretary for pastures new, but it has acquired something shiny and expensive, and it’s causing quite the stir. Housed inside its familiar square case that we all know and love, the Monaco is, for the first time since 1969, being powered by an in-house movement, the Calibre 02. First released in TAG’s storied Autavia back in…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic

Few watches released in 2019 have had the ability to garner nothing but praise. There are, of course, certain timepieces that are highly revered — think the new Rolex GMT-Master II ref.126710BLNR, for example. But that watch brings with it a sizeable amount of polarity. No, for the entire horological community to get behind a new timepiece it’s got to be special … and the new Longines Heritage Classic L2.828.4.73.2 is exactly that: special. Allow me to explain. Part of this raconteur’s role is to scour the interwebs and plethora of social media networks, and, to my dismay, sometimes read the comments. I am yet to witness a single negative comment, on any platform, about this new Longines; there simply hasn’t been a peep — it’s been nothing but applause and even adoration. And from the very first time you fasten it to your wrist, you understand why the response to this simple, time-only watch has been so profound – it’s a revelation. Now, that’s a big claim, but I’ve been fortunate enough to spend a fair amount of time with the Longines Heritage Classic L2.828.4.73.2, so let me walk you through how this conclusion has been reached. It starts with the…

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6 years ago

Why the Longines Heritage Collection is going from strength to strength

Owning a watch that has been given to you as a gift has a sentimental element that can get even more meaningful over time. Anyone who has been fortunate enough to have received a watch as a gift, a milestone or something to mark an achievement, will know what I’m on about – it’s an emotional thing, it becomes more than ‘just a watch’. …if you’re contemplating buying a watch for someone you care about, you should abide by one simple rule: keep it classic. But not all watch gifts are equal. What can make the experience slightly less nostalgic as the years go on is if the watch in question was made with a particular aesthetic or trend that is no longer en vogue … think the vast majority of fashion watches from the ’90s, for example. That’s why, if you’re contemplating buying a watch for someone you care about, you should abide by one simple rule: keep it classic. And the parameters set by Longines’ range of heritage timepieces are some very safe guide-rails indeed. Why? Because they offer tried and tested watch designs with a high level of refinement that’s verging on unparalleled in the price bracket. And,…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire

Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary SapphireUnlike Ferrari’s frankly dismal efforts in Formula 1 this year, 2019 has been a great 12 months for the Italian supercar manufacturer in terms of their commercial and creative partnership with watchmaking vanguards, Hublot. The curvaceous and inimitable Classic Fusion Ferrari GT was not only one of my personal favourites from the provocative Swiss marque, it was one of my favourite watches of 2019. Period. However, the other big standout wristwatch to bear the famed Prancing Horse badge this year – the Hublot Big Bang Scuderia Ferrari 90th Anniversary Sapphire – is by no means something forgettable. On the contrary, this leviathan of a watch perfectly demonstrates why Hublot is talked about time and time again as one of the industry leaders when it comes to material innovation. The gargantuan case, which measures 45mm across, is formed from solid sapphire with a polished finishing, and if that wasn’t impressive enough, the case is capped by a carbon-ceramic bezel. What makes the bezel not only interesting, but just downright cool, is that it’s been shaped to look like a Ferrari’s brake disc, and carbon-ceramic is the actual material the Italian marque uses for said brake discs. The dial is another standout…

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6 years ago

Are in-house movements actually important?

Editor’s note: As the watch buying and horological community becomes more astute by the day, thanks in no small part to social media, in-house movements seem almost paramount to a brand’s sales success. But, as Sandra Lane posited earlier this year, do they actually matter at all? And does the phrase “in-house” really mean manufactured in-house? Personally, having been fortunate enough to own quite a few timepieces over the years, I can say that, anecdotally, the most reliable watches I have worn possessed movements from the likes of ETA and Sellita. It’s a horological point of contention that I think is going to rage on for some time, and Sandra’s deep-dive on the subject is well worth the read.  If you’re considering buying a new watch, one of the least important questions you should ask is: “Does it have an in-house movement?” To be blunt: the mere existence of an in-house movement does not necessarily equate to a better watch. So why do we see the in-house claim being made by so many watch brands? Why do they use it like a badge of honour, a mark of prestige and exclusivity, a (strongly implied) guarantee of superior quality – and…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 ReviewWhen you’re buying a new car, there’s usually some key criteria that dictate whether or not said automobile will make the cut. You know the sort of things we’re talking about – fuel economy, safety rating, 0-100km/h times … that sort of stuff. Oh, and of course, price. But is this same buying style employed when you want to take the plunge on your next watch? Or do you just go off aesthetics and which brand made the watch? If we did buy our watches like we buy our cars, then the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ref. 10467 would be an absolute no-brainer. On paper, this watch offers a shedload of technical prowess, features and capability … and exceptional value for money. Take, for example, the movement. Calibre BM13-1975A is made in-house by the Swiss marque, and it benefits from a range of features that would make certain timepieces worth three times as much blush. We’re talking a gargantuan five days (120 hours) of power reserve, chronometer certification (–4/+6 seconds per day), and, according to Baume & Mercier, service intervals of no less than seven years. And, in addition to having two years of international warranty, Clifton Baumatic owners…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: Is this Baume & Mercier the best sub-$5K dress watch money can buy?

Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic 10467 ReviewWhen you’re buying a new car, there’s usually some key criteria that dictate whether or not said automobile will make the cut. You know the sort of things we’re talking about – fuel economy, safety rating, 0-100km/h times … that sort of stuff. Oh, and of course, price. But is this same buying style employed when you want to take the plunge on your next watch? Or do you just go off aesthetics and which brand made the watch? If we did buy our watches like we buy our cars, then the Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic ref. 10467 would be an absolute no-brainer. On paper, this watch offers a shedload of technical prowess, features and capability … and exceptional value for money. Take, for example, the movement. Calibre BM13-1975A is made in-house by the Swiss marque, and it benefits from a range of features that would make certain timepieces worth three times as much blush. We’re talking a gargantuan five days (120 hours) of power reserve, chronometer certification (–4/+6 seconds per day), and, according to Baume & Mercier, service intervals of no less than seven years. And, in addition to having two years of international warranty, Clifton Baumatic owners…

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6 years ago