HANDS-ON: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon – all the makings of a modern classic

A tourbillon inside a steel sports watch? On a rubber strap? It’s enough to bring a watch-purist out in a cold sweat. And when such a watch is launched by one of the most venerable companies in the business? Ohhh … But that’s exactly what makes the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon so cool. Yes, cool. Here’s Vacheron Constantin, showing off its haute horlogerie chops in casual, sports-luxe mode. The tourbillon follows a chronograph, a perpetual calendar and a world timer into the Overseas line but its presence in the collection is both strange and wonderful in a way those other complications are not. It’s not the first time we’ve seen a tourbillon in a sports-luxe line (AP, Richard Mille et al.), but Vacheron usually surrounds its tourbillons with elegant refinement and/or high complications. This is by far the house’s most understated tourbillon watch to date – and here, the delicate and beautiful mechanism sits in splendid isolation, surrounded by an ocean of blue dial. And wrapped up in steel. The case Fasten the watch to your wrist and the case shows its star quality. The proportions are great: wide enough (42.5mm) and thin enough (10.39mm) to look and feel strongly present…

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5 years ago

Review – Longines Heritage Military – the RAF Re-Edition Watch

In the past few years, Longines has been quite successful in re-editing some of its most glorious vintage watches. This includes, of course, the Legend Diver, but also the recently launched Skin Diver, the Avigation Big Eye or the Lindbergh watches. Altogether, this creates a solid, coherent “Heritage” collection. One of the latest additions is pushing the concept even further… Vintage-inspired and faux-ageing to the max is what you’ll get with the Longines Heritage Military, a re-edition of the RAF-issued 6B/159 watch.

5 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Defy El Primero 21 – not your average chronograph

The Defy is playing an increasingly important role in Zenith’s lineup — offering a modern alternative to the Pilot’s line that has dominated the discussion for so long. And there’s a lot to like about it — modern style with a hint of retro flavour. And while the Defy spans the spectrum from accessible to ultra high-end, the watch we’re looking at today — the Zenith Defy El Primero 21 — sits neatly in the middle, adding a quintessentially Zenith complication to the sporty 44mm package.  That complication is, of course, the chronograph — and not just any chrono, but the mighty El Primero. Only here it’s the El Primero on steroids — the El Primero 21. The party trick here is the fact that the chronograph is packing two escapements, one for the timekeeping, and one for the chronograph. The real kicker is the beat rate for the chronograph escapement — 360,000 vph. This means that the central hand doesn’t make a full rotation every minute, but every second (that’s 1/100th of a second accuracy). It’s a whirling, mad thing to look at, and super cool. It’s also something of an energy hog, as you might expect, which leads…

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5 years ago

In-Depth – Patek Philippe Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A

Like a good thriller, the Calatrava Weekly Calendar 5212A is packed with subtle clues that offer us a glimpse into the strategies of its maker. More complex than the élite and minimalist line-up of Calatrava watches, the Weekly Calendar also departs from its family heritage of precious metal cases and flaunts a stainless steel case. […]

5 years ago

Review – Carl F. Bucherer Heritage BiCompax Annual

Carl F. Bucherer dips into its archives and breathes new life into a 1956 bi-compax chronograph with the release of the Heritage BiCompax Annual. Produced in two limited editions of 888 pieces, the Heritage BiCompax Annual is the second member of the Heritage Line designed to showcase the brand’s technology housed in designs inspired by watches from the mid-20th century. Revisited in a 41mm format, the Heritage BiCompax Annual pays tribute to its forbear but pops an annual calendar into the mix. Two very desirable complications in an impeccably stylish package at a price that has nothing to do with other Maisons adept at these combinations, we were lucky enough to get some hands-on time with this exceptional retro revival.

5 years ago

Hands-on – Tudor Black Bay Bronze Grey Dial 79250BA – Rugged, Retro and Stylish

In the face of the relatively ‘conservative’ panorama that reigned over Baselworld 2019, journalists and aficionados eagerly awaited for the embargo to be lifted on the heavyweight contenders of the fair – Rolex and Tudor. Although Tudor was confident that the star of the show would be its commercial (and polarising) rendition of a historic […]

5 years ago

Value Proposition – BOLDR Globetrotter GMT (Review)

To say there’s a sea of microbrands out there pushing dive watches would be an understatement. The Marnaut Dark Surge 300m Series, UNDONE Aqua and Farer Aqua Compressor Endeavour are recent examples. Comparable to drivers of four-wheel drive SUV’s, many dive watch owners rarely (if ever) use the timepieces for their intended purpose, preferring form […]

5 years ago

Hands-on – Dijkman Watches Versum, another one-man Dutch brand

We’ve been exploring the Dutch fields of watchmaking recently, with for instance the Van der Gang 20019 chronograph, the 3D-Printed watches of Dutch watchmaker Michiel Holthinrichs or the first watch by De Rijke Watches & Co, the Amalfi Series I. Today we shed light on yet another Dutch creation, driven by one man’s passion for […]

5 years ago

Review – Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer (Incl. Glashütte’s History of Marine Chronometers)

Marine chronometers were a staple of Glashütte’s watchmaking industry for over a century. To honour this tradition, Glashütte Original introduced the Senator Chronometer watch in 2009. Not only does the Senator Chronometer evoke the layout of historic marine chronometers but it was also the first Glashütte Original watch to flaunt official chronometer status. As an heir to the proud tradition of marine chronometers built in Glashütte, precision is the name of the game and the ingenious stop-second/reset mechanism is designed for hyper-precision time setting. The Senator Chronometer was revisited in 2016 in this 42mm white gold and dark blue dial version (see the older version here) proving that historic designs can transcend time and look completely at ease – and remarkably elegant –  in the 21st century.

5 years ago

Review – Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211

Quartz… A word that you don’t often read on MONOCHROME. I’m not afraid to say that and freely admit that we are watch snobs. We love fine mechanics and Haute Horlogerie. However, the watch that we’re about to review has a quartz regulator, but isn’t battery powered – and that already makes things slightly different. Secondly, this watch is made by Grand Seiko – and we’ve already seen that it is committed to doing things in a different (better?) way. And last but not least, this quartz crystal is part of a hybrid movement, mixing old-school mechanics and modernity. This watch is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive Snowflake SBGA211 and no, we’re not afraid to review it in this “online magazine dedicated to fine watches”.

5 years ago