Review – The 2019 Rado Captain Cook Limited Edition 37mm

Following up on the 37mm Captain Cook vintage diver collection from 2017 (along with a contemporary 45mm version), Rado has released a 2019 limited edition that pushes the retro vibe even further. Most of what made the 2017 models so appealing returns, but the brand found inspiration from a vintage Captain Cook piece that had […]

6 years ago

In-Depth – Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G – The New Classic Hand-Wound Chrono

Patek – Hand-Wound – Chronograph: three words that give you an immediate indication of what to expect. Classic, iconic, timeless, desirable, historic. This watch, a manual-winding chronograph by Patek, is a perfect example of the grail watch for many collectors. So, you can imagine that when it comes to replacing it, the brand simply cannot […]

6 years ago

Doubling down on the rainbow – the Franck Muller Double Mystery

Franck Muller’s tagline is “the master of complications”, and this watch delivers on that promise in dazzling style. This fully set Franck Muller Double Mystery from their Round collection (which goes to show that there’s more to the brand than Curvex cases) is a great example of working smart. The movement on show is the Double Mystery — the mystery being that there are no traditional hands at play here, rather two triangles nestled amongst the brilliance of the fully set dial. Of course it doesn’t take long to work out that these markers sit in two rotating discs, creating an illusion of floating time. It’s one of my favourite romantic complications, and Franck Muller has deployed it here to good effect. It’s a smart complication because while it uses up a fair bit of energy to move a full disc (or two) rather than more lightweight hands, it’s a complication that can be added to a base automatic movement, allowing the brand to spend their time focusing on other things — like that exceptional case. Speaking of the case, let’s break it down into numbers. It’s white gold, 42mm across (which means that, even though it’s billed as a women’s watch,…

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6 years ago

The stealthy excellence of the Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold (ref. 226659)

If you weren’t paying close attention you could easily miss the new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 in white gold. And I mean that in the best way. It’s a handsome timepiece, with a quiet presence that (despite its newness) feels reassuringly familiar in some hard-to-define way. Despite being 2mm bigger than its Everose Gold brother (and a 42mm Oyster case wears quite big), it’s the opposite of in your face. In fact, thanks to the monochrome colour scheme of the dial, bezel and case, and the matt black Oysterflex strap, it may be the most discreet model in Rolex’s entire line-up. I’m not suggesting that it can’t be a love-at-first-sight piece – but the more closely you look, the greater the rewards. The absence of colour draws your eye to the details, and emphasises the play of shiny and matt surfaces: the fine band of polished notches around the outer edge of the bezel contrasts with the matt Cerachrom insert, which in turn plays against the shine of the black lacquer dial. The polished surfaces of the raised numerals on the bezel (they are an integral part of the bezel, moulded with the ceramic, rather than applied) cast barely-there shadows on…

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6 years ago

HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 

Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat.  This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever I saw one. It’s also very classic in its proportions – the steel (also offered in gold) case is 40mm across by a svelte 7.4mm thin — truly deserving of that extra flat name. But just because it’s pared back the essentials, that doesn’t mean that Blancpain has sacrificed style or technical know-how. The look is instantly Villeret, with applied, stylised Roman numerals, leaf-shaped hands and that double-stepped bezel. Very Blancpain.  The mechanics are impressive too. For all that it’s slender, the manufacture 11A4B doesn’t sacrifice on performance, offering 4 days of wind off two barrels, which allow for a consistent energy pulse, resulting in greater accuracy at low power. In a nod to user-friendliness there’s also a power reserve indicator discreetly displayed on the sapphire caseback.  The Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 doesn’t aim to raise eyebrows in terms of ‘novelty’ factor, but it…

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6 years ago

Review – RGM Caliber 20, the Classic American-Made Watch

RGM Watch Co. is truly an anomaly in the industry, designing and manufacturing ground-up movements, dials and cases in a country that’s long abandoned such horological endeavours. The days of great American brands like Hamilton, Waltham and Ingersoll are long gone, but RGM brought traditional watchmaking back in the 1990s, setting up shop in Mount […]

7 years ago

Value Proposition – The MARNAUT Dark Surge 300m Dive Series (Review)

We’ve discussed the surge of microbrands on many occasions, appreciating their innovative styling at accessible price points. Dive watches, however, can be a tough nut to crack with well-established players like Seiko, Hamilton and Tissot offering affordable, competitive options at retailers worldwide. In fact, the market seems flooded with divers from just about every major […]

7 years ago

HANDS-ON: The Golden Turtle – Seiko’s Prospex SRPC44

Seiko’s core Prospex diver, known as the ‘Turtle’, is a rock-solid watch that’s a well-deserved fan favourite. And it’s easy to see why. It’s a compelling mix of classic, conservative dive watch style and idiosyncratic design that’s downright charming.  It’s also quite a versatile platform, as numerous colour combinations, and dials demonstrate. If the blacked-out Ninja Turtle and blue-textured dials of the Save the Ocean editions weren’t enough to convince you, I present the Seiko Prospex SRPC44, colloquially known as the Golden Turtle.  Before we get to what it’s like to wear this (very) gold watch on the wrist, let’s cover off a few of the core specifications of the Turtle. It clocks in at a very solid 45mm across (according to Seiko’s website), and 13.4mm tall. The crystal is Hardlex, Seiko’s proprietary tough mineral crystal. The band is an accordion-style diver in silicon, with gold-tone buckle and a metal keeper. The movement is the 4R36, which has hacking, hand-winding a date and a day. All good stuff. The case is rated to 200 metres and the relevant sections of the dial and hands are coated with enough Lumibrite to keep you up at night.  So that’s the nuts and…

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7 years ago

Opinion – What Makes the Breitling Navitimer Ref. 806 1959 Re‑Edition Such a Cool Piece?

Everyone knows the Breitling Navitimer. Like, literally everyone. That’s because it has one of the most recognisable dial/bezel configurations in the business. That doesn’t mean it’s the easiest to read but it definitely stands out in a crowd. Launched in 1952, this legendary watch – designed specifically for pilots – has seen many, many variations […]

7 years ago