In-Depth – Review of The IWC Portugieser Chronograph 3714 – The Modern Schaffhausen Icon
Since its debut in 1998, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ref. 3714 has become the most sought-after, the most recognisable, and certainly the best-selling model in the Portugieser family. Apart from being a veritable design success, this watch has acquired cult status for one reason: it hasn’t changed a bit since its inception. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of this modern icon, we thought it was time to take an in-depth look at this watch with a review of the Portugieser Chronograph 3714.
Since their dramatic reboot in 2012, Tudor has continually upped the game. From the original Black Bay, to the development of in-house movements, new case materials, and complications like the chronograph, every year brings a new surprise. Based on this track record, I’m always excited to see what Tudor will do next with the Black Bay, not least because of the element of brinkmanship at play. Well, this year Tudor outdid themselves once again with the Heritage Black Bay GMT. It’s a hot watch. Not just because of its obvious good looks — I mean, just look at that bezel — it’s also an extremely high-quality offering, which can be said for all Tudor’s pieces, and it’s also technically impressive, with its brand new ‘true’ GMT. Really, it’s the complete package. Classic style, quality build and a compelling price. What’s not to like? Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT Australian pricing Tudor Heritage Black Bay GMT, on bracelet, $4670
The story in a second: Tissot’s latest heritage release is another hit. In these days of the never-ending vintage revival, it seems that every brand has to have a heritage collection, regardless of whether they have any actual heritage. That’s not a problem Tissot has to deal with, as the brand dates way back to 1853, a depth of history that’s reflected in the strength of their current heritage lineup. The latest member is this handsome fella, the Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde, a hand-winding hero based on a 1943 design, which is entirely suited to the modern day. The dial There’s an interesting story about this reissue, and it centres on one word on the dial. The Heritage Petite Seconde is a tribute to an antimagnetic watch from 1943. When the watch was originally shown at Baselworld this year it featured a line of text reading ‘antimagnetique’ under the wonderfully retro, sweeping Tissot logo. As you can see, that word is no longer there, likely because, while the watch was antimagnetic 70 or so years ago, technology has moved on, and it wouldn’t be accurate to call the watch antimagnetic by modern standards. And so, now that the watch is…
Now, it may shock you to learn that not everyone wants a watch bedecked with bezels, chronographs, and other functionality to complicate the equation. Some people are just after a nice watch that tells the time, simple as that. If that’s something that resonates with you, the Tudor Black Bay 41 is a watch you should definitely look into. Introduced a few years ago as a 36mm case with a black dial, the collection has since grown to include 32 and 41mm versions, and most recently blue dial options. Today we’re looking at the BB 41, with a blue dial. Before we get to the main talking point — the new dial — it’s worth recapping the numerous charms of the 41. While the case strongly references the ‘other’ Black Bays — those tall, straight sides, the ‘big’ crown and proud, bevelled lugs — the most notable difference is the bezel. Gone is the tool-like unidirectional dive bezel of the diver, the 24-hour scale of the GMT or the tachymeter of the Chrono. Instead, there’s a fixed bezel in polished steel. On paper it’s a minor change, but one that radically alters the look and feel of the watch. It’s still…
Last year’s release of the Black Bay S&G was something of a slow burn. In the heat of the initial announcements, all eyes were on the impressive Black Bay Chrono. As time passed, people seemed to realise what a looker the steel and gold was — no doubt helped by the fact that it was prominently featured on the wrist of none other than David Beckham. Well, this year Tudor released another S&G, with a radiant, golden-hued dial, officially called ‘champagne’ by the brand. We might not have been as surprised by the bi-metal watch as we were last year, but we were still pretty stunned by its beauty. And even though, dial aside, it’s fundamentally the same watch as the previous S&G, we were surprised by just how strongly the champagne S&G was its own watch, going its own way, and doing its own thing. Before we get to the dial, let’s do a quick flyover of the vital statistics. The watch bears the typical 41mm Black Bay case, with a solid golden bezel (with aluminium insert) and a gold cap crown. It’s offered on an olive green fabric strap, distressed leather and this rivet-style bracelet with gold cap centre…
One of the real hits from Rolex’s 2015 collection was the Oyster Perpetual 39 (ref. 114300), a bare bones, simple steel timepiece that was still pure Rolex. Initially offered in a range of youthful, colourful dials, this year the Oyster Perpetual family expanded to include white and black dial variants, and they are, just quietly, awesome. While the case and bracelet are unchanged, it’s worth revisiting them. Of course, the Oyster Perpetual is offered in a wide range of sizes, all the way up to this, the 39mm model, which really will suit a lot of wrists. But if you like your watches smaller, the 36mm is a solid choice, too. The case is Rolex’s classic Oyster case, which hasn’t changed too much over the decades. Made from Oystersteel, it uses Rolex’s Twinlock crown and is rated for 100m. While it might not have the same levels of deep diving capability as the professional line, it’s more than enough for everyday life. The bracelet is excellent — like all Rolex bracelets. It’s an Oyster bracelet, with brushed links. The clasp is a regular Oysterclasp, a superb (and deceptively simple) piece of mechanical engineering. While the case and bracelet are unchanged,…
There are few things I love more than a watch that surprises me. It’s something that doesn’t happen near enough for my liking, but it happened with this Longines. It was in the Longines booth at Baselworld, the first day of the fair. Trays and trays of watches had just been laid out in front of us and we were working out what to photograph and focus on. The new Legend Divers, obviously; cool new V.H.P. variants, a really sexy blue and gold Record. Then, the brand representative thrust something from the Master Collection into my hand. Steel, 40mm case, day-date display. Sure, it was nice, but a novelty? Not so much. I made polite sounds of appreciation and handed it back. No, she said, look again. And I did. I noticed the dial text first — ‘annual calendar’ — and then realised that it wasn’t a day-date, but rather a month and date. This seemingly innocuous watch had just jumped right to the top of the list. Before we talk more about the watch, let’s talk calendars. There’s a bunch of calendar complications, from the simple date, all the way up to the celestial stuff, but in my experience there…