IN-DEPTH: The Seiko Samurai ‘Save The Ocean’ SRPC93K

The story in a second: Same great watch, brand new dial. The centrepiece of Seiko’s 2018 Prospex collection is, without doubt, the brand new and very blue ‘Save The Ocean’ series, offered in Turtle, Samurai and solar variants. It follows on from the recent Black Series and Blue Lagoon. But while last year’s limited edition was purely a cosmetic update, the Save The Ocean release has an element of social responsibility. Seiko has teamed up with Fabien Cousteau (grandson of Jacques-Yves Cousteau), who is himself a marine conservationist, to raise funds and awareness for Cousteau’s Ocean Learning Centre. Part of this awareness-raising involves prominent displays of what healthy and not-so-healthy marine environments look like in several Australian cities. So, not only do these watches look the part, they also do their part. The case First up, aside from the dial and bezel, this watch is pretty much identical to its regular release brethren. So, you’re getting the same angular, slightly blocky steel case, with solid proportions of 43.8mm across and 12.82mm tall — with a neatly knurled crown at three and fairly pointy guards. One point of difference between this and the regular Samurai models is that the grippy bezel…

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7 years ago

Review – Carl F. Bucherer Patravi TravelTec Black – A First Class GMT Watch for Today’s Globetrotter

The TravelTec is one of the few watches in the business whose name actually matches its functions: a highly technical travel watch. Carl F. Bucherer’s Patravi TravelTec upped the antes in the GMT arena when it was introduced in 2005 with a movement capable of displaying three time zones coupled with a chronograph. Now the globetrotting star of the Patravi collection, the TravelTec has adapted to the changing panorama of materials and also comes in this sleek matte black version with an integrated rubber strap. Although the designers might have had stealth aesthetics in mind with the dark DLC finish, this multi-purpose 46.6mm piece will not fly under the radar. Endowed with brawns and brains, the powerful masculine case of the TravelTec Black houses CFB’s automatic chronograph movement.

7 years ago

Review – A Summer with The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Bronze (And Bronze Patina in Action)

A year ago, Bell & Ross introduced the BR 03-92 Diver, the brand’s take on the dive watch. While it was not the first time B&R produces a watch to explore the deep blue sea – some of the earliest models were dive watches (inc. the impressive Hydromax 11000m) – this new watch was the first to mix the iconic square case with proper diving capacities. Utterly different from the rest of the crowd and at the same time genuinely familiar, it was an immediate success. This year, the collection expands with 2 new versions, in blue or in bronze. I spent my summer with the latter and here’s our take on it.

7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: Ultra-thin heavyweight – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic in gold 

The story in a second: Bulgari’s latest take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic is the anti-gold gold watch. How about a riddle to start your Monday off right? When is a gold watch not a gold watch? When it’s Bulgari’s darling, the Octo Finissimo Automatic, in rose gold. Now, obviously it’s a gold watch, but it looks and wears like no other gold watch I’ve ever had the pleasure of wearing. The case While the movement and other elements of habillage are important to this watch, really, it’s about the case (and bracelet — more on that shortly). The design, the material, the treatment. All of it really. Let’s start with the familiar. The Octo Finissimo case itself is a pretty well-known quantity by now. It’s a much thinner (5.15mm to be precise) version of the regular Octo, which is an evolution of Genta’s original design. The Octo Finissimo Automatic is all sharp lines; the only curves to be seen are the bezel (even that is encompassed by an octagonal frame) and the crown. Everything else is facets and angles. The resulting look is instantly iconic, a strong, decidedly contemporary look that, unlike many high-end avant-garde designs, manages to be…

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7 years ago

Review – The Sports Watch From Stoic World – Peter Speake-Marin’s Polarizing Reemergence In The Affordable Market

Imagine Enzo Ferrari leaving his company after its reputation was well established, only to reemerge a year later with a new car brand offering affordable, compact sedans. As crazy as that scenario sounds, it’s kind of analogous to the current situation we have with Peter Speake-Marin. It wasn’t long ago that his name was associated with expensive, exclusive and complicated timepieces, featuring in-house movements, tourbillons, minute repeaters and more. Those days are behind Peter, who left the company last year to pursue other interests (inc. The Naked Watchmaker), but he’s suddenly back with a new watch brand, Stoic World. The Sports Watch is one of three in Stoic World’s portfolio of affordable, mainstream watches, having virtually no resemblance to his former collections. Let’s take a closer look at the Sports Watch (and touch on the other two) and see if this new direction is worthy of the Peter Speake-Marin name.

7 years ago

Review – The Sports Watch From Stoic World – Peter Speake-Marin’s Polarising Reemergence In The Affordable Market

Imagine Enzo Ferrari leaving his company after its reputation was well established, only to reemerge a year later with a new car brand offering affordable, compact sedans. As crazy as that scenario sounds, it’s kind of analogous to the current situation we have with Peter Speake-Marin. It wasn’t long ago that his name was associated with expensive, exclusive and complicated timepieces, featuring in-house movements, tourbillons, minute repeaters and more. Those days are behind Peter, who left the company last year to pursue other interests (inc. The Naked Watchmaker), but he’s suddenly back with a new watch brand, Stoic World. The Sports Watch is one of three in Stoic World’s portfolio of affordable, mainstream watches, having virtually no resemblance to his former collections. Let’s take a closer look at the Sports Watch (and touch on the other two) and see if this new direction is worthy of the Peter Speake-Marin name.

7 years ago

Opinion – A Closer Look at the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar

When Vacheron Constantin announced right before the SIHH 2018 the introduction of a new collection, the FiftySix, we had been (in all honesty) rather sceptical. I can recall discussions with Frank about the design, the way the brand communicated around the model, the “entry-level” approach or the millennial target. Never judge on first impressions, they say… Thus, we decided to give this Vacheron Constantin FiftySix a second chance, but this time by wearing it. And for that, we chose the most complex (and most appealing) version, the Complete Calendar.

7 years ago

IN-DEPTH: The Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic – the most important movement of 2018?

The story in a second: Classic on the outside, contemporary on the inside. Baume & Mercier are onto a winner here. I’ve always thought Baume & Mercier were at their best when they were playing with the classics. The Clifton, with its classical proportions, vintage inspiration and strong value offering, is a proposition that was hard to beat. But beat it they did, with the deceptively simple Clifton Baumatic, and its powerful movement. The case An elegantly proportioned case is a hallmark of the Clifton family, and this Baumatic version delivers, with neat and tidy dimensions of 40mm across by 10.3mm tall. But even though it’s a Clifton, it’s not quite the same Clifton as before. The regular — non-Baumatic — Clifton is shade wider at 41mm. It’s not just the overall width here that’s slimmer, the lug shoulders are more slender too, giving a greater air of timelessness overall. As you’d expect, the crystals are sapphire on the front and the rear, and it’s rated to 50 metres of water resistance. The dial The classic aesthetic that’s evident on the case continues onto the dial, which could perhaps be best described as simple but stylish. Crisp black printing on…

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7 years ago

Independent Watchmaking – Laurent Ferrier Galet Minute Repeater (Hands-On)

Laurent Ferrier is known to be on the simple side of things. Well, at least, when it comes to the design. Indeed, when your 3-hand watches are fitted with a tourbillon double hairspring or a natural escapement (direct double impulse) and a micro-rotor, you can’t be named “simple” anymore. With its latest creation, the most complex in the collection so far, Laurent Ferrier doesn’t break his habits. Meet the impressively clean Laurent Ferrier Galet Minute Repeater.

7 years ago