INTRODUCING: The Longines Legend Diver is back, and yes, it’s in black. All black
The Longines Legend Diver Watch, a reimagined version of a diving watch from the 1960s, had a dramatic reintroduction in 2017, care of the Milanese bracelet addition — perhaps the best strap hack of the year, period — and now it’s going to set pulses racing even faster with a new version in black PVD. Vital Statistics Apart from the PVD, the Legend Diver remains true to the bold styling that made the original timepiece something of an icon in the Longines canon. It houses Longines’ L888 caliber. In terms of design, the lines of the original watch have been preserved, including the boxed glass (but in sapphire crystal) and the bidirectional internal turning diving bezel. While upholding the 1960s spirit of this legendary timepiece, Longines have also equipped it with contemporary and high-performance technical characteristics, including a black PVD coating for a resolutely modern design, a sapphire crystal, two crowns and a screw-down back to guarantee water-resistance to 30 bar. The bezel is activated and stopped by the crown located at 2 o’clock, allowing the wearer to determine the remaining dive time. The steel 42mm case is coated with a layer of black PVD and has an illustration of a diver…
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If I’m completely honest, women’s watches aren’t my speciality, largely because they tend (notable exceptions aside) not to look the greatest on my fairly hairy 21cm wrist. But luckily — and thankfully — Sandra Lane is on the team. So rather than flounder my way through the intricacies of stone-setting and satin straps, I defer to Sandra’s insight and expertise. And what better setting for this than that most exclusive of Maisons (and SIHH newcomer) Hermès. Ironically enough, the Hermès Sandra opted for, the Carré H, isn’t a feminine model per se, but when it comes to some of her other picks — from the likes of Van Cleef & Arpels, the below Parmigiani Fleurier, and Audemars Piguet — there’s no doubt they’re intended for women’s wrists.
If you know a little bit about how the world of watches works, you’ll likely know that it’s a space dominated by a few big groups (namely Richemont, Swatch and LVMH), each with their own stable of brands. SIHH is a show dominated by Richemont brands — big names like Cartier, IWC and Montblanc. But they’re not the only show in town at the Salon. Some larger independent brands, such as Richard Mille, show as well, as do a a select group of smaller names. These smaller names — low in production numbers but high in quality, innovation and prestige — congregate in the Carré des Horlogers, an opulent cul-de-sac, populated by some of the most exceptional (and expensive) watches at a fair all about exceptional (and expensive) watches. Who better to show us around than Andrew and sometime contributor and full-time indie-lover Justin Mastine-Frost. Over to you, Justin …
A. Lange & Söhne is a serious watchmaking brand. Everything they do is deliberate, and relentlessly on message. It would be easy to assume — based on this and the generally traditional nature of their timepieces — that the German brand is sober to the point of dullness, but the reality is exactly the opposite. Not only are their press presentations amongst the most consistently amusing (and informative) I’ve ever attended, but the watches themselves have fully fledged personalities that are anything but boring. Take the Saxonia Thin in Copper Blue. The Aventurine dial is fun, endlessly fascinating, and a perfect match for the minimal Saxonia model. Then there’s the Little Lange 1, a pint-sized model offered in three confident, but not over-the-top, colour schemes. And then there’s the Triple Split. Of all the A. Lange & Söhne 2018 releases it’s the one that, for me, most epitomises the values of the brand. Sublime watchmaking, made not to meet a clear and pressing need, but simply because they can. And made with such a sense of style and panache. Wunderbar.
Yesterday, we ran through our picks of SIHH 2018 at the more accessible end of the spectrum, bearing in mind that the HH in SIHH stands for ‘High Horology’. Today, we kick it up a notch, looking at watches that come in between $10-$20k. There are a lot of meaty options in this price point, something that’s reflected in the fairly diverse opinions of Sandra, Andrew, Justin and myself – as we’ve picked out simple, time-only pieces as well as some more complex pieces. I’m not going to spoil the surprise (or the LOLs), but take, for example, Justin’s pick – the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT, a watch that is just over the top end of our budget but offers a strong mix of world time and chronograph complication in a stylish sports case and with a pretty exceptional movement. Or, as Justin puts it: “I’ve always found it hard to find a nice world time chronograph with more then 30-minute registers. It drives me bonkers.” We hear you, Justin, we hear you. Now, onto our top watches of SIHH 2018, between $10,000 and $20,000, Stay tuned as things get more expensive tomorrow.
The more distance and time I’ve had to reflect on SIHH 2018, the more I’m inclined to think that the calibre of the exhibiting collections was – overall – very high. The very top end of town was well represented but of more interest to me (and I suspect a lot of you reading this), the offerings at the less stratospheric price points were plentiful, interesting and attractive. Case in point – Montblanc. Montblanc’s hero collections were the greatly expanded and slightly re-imagined 1858 collection, and the classically styled Star Legacy, both full of the sort of value-packed, thoughtful watches that Montblanc have become synonymous with lately. But really, for me it was the 1858 that was the star of the line-up, what with their rugged charms and easy wrist appeal. Make sure to watch the video for a full overview, but to my mind, these three regular production 1858 watches are the ones to watch. Montblanc 1858 Geosphere With its twin, rotating hemispheres and ceramic compass bezel this twin-time watch was one of Montblanc’s real talking points. It’s offered in a regular production steel model or a limited bronze case, bund strap combo that’s Reinhold Messner levels of awesome. Montblanc…
Ulysse Nardin showed a refreshingly diverse collection at SIHH, with everything from clean, simple (dare we say, classic) designs, all the way up to the incredibly complex and cutting edge. So, as you can imagine, our favourite picks cover off both ends of the spectrum, from daily wear to more special occasion pieces. And while we kept our focus to four models, there’s a few honourable mentions, particularly the new Torpilleur models, and the epic Deep Dive. Ulysse Nardin Classico Last year, we were collectively besotted by the blue enamel, guilloche Classico. This year, we fell in love all over again with this new, inky black-dialled beauty. Simple, but refined. RRP $12,995 (indicative) Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon To be honest, Ulysse Nardin’s Marine Tourbillon is one of the leaders in its class. First released last year with a white enamel dial, it was a a very pure execution of the design. This time around, the design is a lot flashier, thanks to the guilloche-finished bleu enamel dial, which just sings under the light. RRP $41,700 (indicative) Ulysse Nardin Freak Vision And here’s where we depart from the world of classical design for the aggressively modern. The Freak is a genuine…
Ever since we first saw them at SIHH, the collective Time+Tide team has been crushing hard on the new Luminor Due models, particularly the 38 and 42mm offerings. Now, obviously these are watches with strong cross-gender appeal, so we thought it’d be a smart idea to get two takes on these models, courtesy of slender-wristed Sandra and Felix (and his mighty wrists). First thoughts Sandra Lane: Shock, horror! Panerai have made a “small” watch. Some are calling it a watch for women (or – God forbid – even a ‘girly’ watch) but really it’s not. It is simply a watch for those who prefer not to wear a saucer-sized monster on their wrist … for reasons of aesthetics, comfort, fit … whatever. Felix Scholz: Yeah, that did seem to be the initial reaction in some quarters. I think the more prevalent attitude (in the halls of SIHH at least) was — finally! I know so many people who love the PAM look but can’t handle the case size. And you’re absolutely right re the gender split, Sandra, I can easily wear a big, 45mm-plus watch, but would happily strap that 42mm model on any day of the week. The case…
Over the past decade, while earning its chops as a serious technical watchmaker, Cartier has demonstrated time and again its mastery of the artistic crafts – métiers d’art in the Francophone world of watchmaking. It has taken traditional techniques and gone further – for example, using straw and flower petals for marquetry. It has also remastered 3000-year-old techniques that were virtually extinct, including granulation – a manner of creating surface texture using tiny gold beads. As a result, we have seen a series of achingly beautiful dials – exquisitely detailed, a celebration of human skill. Beautiful they are, but quite serious. Cartier is not one to fool around. So, who could have guessed that the most fun watch of SIHH 2018 would have come from the grand Parisian Maison? Looking at the photographs of the watch outside Cartier’s booth, I could only think, “Huh? What’s going on here?” A watch with a panther’s face on the dial – so far, so Cartier. Pictures of a slightly pixelated or deconstructed panther’s face? Strange. You need to see the watch in reality (or at least a video) to make sense of it. It’s confounding. It’s delightful. It’s like watching a magic trick.…
When it came to Panerai’s latest collection, we’ve already covered off how the Luminor Due was the surprise star. And while it’s fair to say the smaller models accounted for a disproportionate amount of the noise, there was strong representation at the larger end of the scales. In particular this watch, PAM 00944, a full-cream 45mm case, which — thanks to its Due status — still slips under the cuff with far more ease than its ‘regular’ Luminor brethren. And, to be honest, this watch is made with suits of the finer cut very much in mind. The polished 316L steel case is, well, polished in every sense of the word, and the croc strap with contrasting stitch is elegant in a way only alligator can be. Then there’s the dial. It’s still the familiar sandwich construction, with bold, stylised Arabic numerals at the cardinal points: a design that would very much be familiar to those wartime divers. But the execution is more civvie than military — not to mention civilised. The luminous material on the markers and hands, as well as the printed details all in a warm, butterscotch hue (quite pleasing); and the main dial material is a…