HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure, all the extra information on the dial does complicate the cleaner design codes of the Polaris line, but the key features are there: the range of varied dial finishes, the applied trapezoid markers, the black and ocean blue colouring. And all that extra dial detail makes for a much richer on-the-wrist experience. With its functional design, wearer-friendly lightweight case rated to 100m, solid 65 hours of power reserve and undeniable charms, the Polaris Chronograph WT is a strong option for fans of JLC’s complex offerings who crave a more classic look.
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It’s a tricky task upgrading a storied and legendary watch such as the Santos — you must innovate while appearing to be unchanging. It’s a job that Cartier have pulled off with aplomb at SIHH 2018. The new Santos is the star in their masculine line-up, a sensitive update that brings the design very much up to date. But first, a quick origin story. The Santos claims the enviable title of the first modern wristwatch, made by Louis Cartier in 1904 for Brazilian aviator, bon vivant and (apparently) all-round cool guy Alberto Santos-Dumont. The watch quickly caught on and has had pride of place in Cartier’s line-up ever since. So what’s new in 2018? Well, let’s start with the insides. The 1847 MC movement (first appearing in the Clé) has been newly added to the line, adding some anti-magnetic clout into the mix. The case, in medium or large versions, is – by and large – unchanged. There has been some refinement to the shape of the bezel, but all the core elements are (thankfully) untouched. The real story, believe it or not, is the straps. The Santos debuts the brand new QuickSwitch system, a solution to the humble (and…
The Polaris – as Andy recently informed us – is one of those truly iconic watches conceived in a golden age, not just of watchmaking but also of global exploration. This year the Polaris got the nod for the remake and revamp treatment, being offered in five new models, starting with the deceptively simple Polaris Automatic. The uncomplicated, no fuss Polaris Automatic is the entry-level ticket to JLC’s brand new sports watch collection. The dual crowns hark back to the original, but this is no Memovox. Instead, one crown governs time-setting and the other looks after the internal bezel. At first glance, the dial is uncomplicated, devoid even of a date. But look closer and you notice the mixture of sunray, grained, and opaline treatments, with applied numerals and trapezoidal hour markers filled with luminous material that matches the hands. It’s exactly the sort of accomplished offering you’d expect from JLC, and it elevates the Polaris Automatic above the typical sports-casual fare. The dial is offered in black and (our pick) ocean blue. Inside the 41mm steel case beats the LC Caliber 898/1 automatic movement with a power reserve of 40 hours, tested for 1000 hours and looking good through…
Two nights ago, I fulfilled one of my most bromantic dreams when I shared a steak dinner with the new IWC ambassador, Bradley Cooper. Me, the guy from all those great movies, a bottle of Malbec and some delicious eye fillet. Perfect. The fact that there were at least 500 other people dining, and that my table was several hundred metres from Brad’s was irrelevant. And as to that point that few, in fact no words were spoken between us? Mere details. On paper, it was steak night with Coops, and Aloe Blacc kindly turned up to sing to us. Who is Bradley Cooper to me, really? Well, several sight-challenged people have commented that, after they’ve imbibed several litres of wine, I look a little bit like him. So to people who really want to get on my good side, he’s my doppelgänger. But, jokes and very optimistic squinting aside, Bradley Cooper is the guy that’s been making me want a Big Pilot since I was in short pants. Cooper has been a big fan, and big wearer of the Big Pilot for a very long time and is often spotted wearing his, both on and off the screen. Most recently our professional spotter Andy Green saw what…
After a warm reception to the forward-thinking Freak-based Ulysse Nardin Innovision 2 at SIHH in 2017, the highly anticipated production variant — dubbed the Freak Vision — took centre-stage at the brand’s ocean-themed booth at SIHH. Of the original 10 patents (four issued, six pending) that found their way into the concept watch, three have been integrated into this new production piece, including the recently launched anchor escapement design, large-diameter silicium oscillator, and ultra-efficient “grinder” self-winding system. Cased in a brushed platinum with a blued bezel and case flanks (with a titanium bezel), the 45mm beast wears surprisingly comfortably given its sizeable dimensions, and manages to be the most understated iteration of the Ulysse Nardin Freak I’ve ever seen. The original Freak from 2001 marked the brand’s first foray into silicium component development, and they continue to be a leader in the category. Now, 17 years past the creation of the first Freak, this latest example feels very much like the turning of a page into the next chapter of boundary-pushing Ulysse Nardin creations. While its carousel tourbillon movement setup — where effectively the entire movement acts as a giant tourbillon, with its large boat-shaped bridge structure doubling as a minute hand…
Not a Radiomir to be seen this year at SIHH; lots of new Luminor Due variations (including a very good 38mm). However, with Angelo Bonati retiring in April from the brand he built from almost-zero to quite the hero, the halo piece has to be that most “Panerai” of all Panerais – the Luminor. Full-fat version, not the slimmed-down Due. A lot of the new PAM00775 is quintessential Luminor and quite a lot is not. There’s the chunky 44mm brushed steel case – as hefty on the wrist as a tool watch should be; a design so strong and confident that the crown guard alone has made Luminor a modern icon. Engraving on the closed caseback includes 100m – reference to the water-resistance. There’s the classic numerals font – the “closed 6 and 9” version – and the simple white printed dial, devoid of all decoration except the OP logo (in blue here; in white on other versions). The 00775 is the base two-hand version, without even the small seconds register of the Marina variant. You don’t get a sandwich dial, unfortunately (when you read down and see the price you’ll know why) but the numerals are thickly painted with…
It’s IWC’s 150th birthday this year and to celebrate they’ve released 27 watches across five different collections – Portugieser, Portofino, Pilot’s, Da Vinci and Pallweber – that represent some pretty exciting firsts and evolutions for the brand. We’ve chosen one watch from each collection to highlight, as well as two from the Pilot’s Collection, because, well, Pilot’s watches. Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Edition “150 Years” What’s new? This is the first Big Pilot’s Watch from IWC with a big date display. How many of this version are available? Two limited-edition models are available, each restricted to 100 watches, one with a blue lacquer dial and one with a white lacquer dial. Both are in stainless steel, the blue dial with rhodium-plated hands and the white with blued hands. Talking point? The lacquer on the dial is applied in 12 layers, with the last being hand-finished. It gives a glossy depth to the dial that’s a dramatic change up from the standard BP and the Le Petit Prince version. Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition 150 years What’s new? The dial. White lacquer. Arctic. Glossy. Glorious. How many of this version are available? 1000 Talking point? Like on all models in the Jubilee collection,…
By now you’ve likely been beaten over the head with the endless coverage of IWC’s cool Tribute to Pallweber, with its jumping hours and minutes, and seen the additions to the growing Portofino collection. Hiding in the corner of IWC’s presentation, alongside a pair of Big Pilot models rested a lone chronograph – the IWC Pilot’s Chronograph Edition “150 Years”. Limited to only 1000 pieces worldwide, this new version of IWC’s classic 3777 isn’t particularly groundbreaking, though it is one of the cooler interpretations we’ve seen in a while. Though at first glance this may seem like a simple white dial, a closer examination reveals something much more charming. All of the 27 watches in IWC’s new “capsule collection” unveiled for the brand’s 150th anniversary are fitted with either white or blue lacquer dials with printed indices, and either blued or rhodium-plated hands. A total of 12 layers of lacquer are applied to each dial before being finished in order to achieve a rich finish similar to that of the enamel dials from IWC’s rich archives. In the case of the 3777 Pilot Chronograph, its recessed subdials appear a fair bit more three dimensional than they do on the standard black…
It’s clear that Girard-Perregaux have decided they’re onto a winner with their sporty-yet-luxurious Laureato, as new versions of the model dominated the brand’s SIHH 2018 line-up. Laureato Chronograph The piece I gravitated towards was the Laureato Chronograph, a modular upgrade to the regular automatic; the familiar Clous de Paris texture of the dial joined by three snailed subdials, while the case — in both 38 and 42mm options — has grown some crown guards and octagonal screw-down pushers that are actually easy to screw down. A real joy to use, and it doesn’t look too bad on the wrist either. Laureato Ceramic While we saw ceramic versions of the Laureato this year, the rubber strap is a small, but significant, addition. It adds even more to the ceramic case’s feeling of lightness, and accentuates the watch’s sporty character. And the range of finishings on the black ceramic case isn’t just beautiful — it’s a testament to GP’s skill. Laureato Flying Tourbillon If the Ceramic Laureato is stealthy, this Flying Tourbillon is a standout. Shown only in precious metals, the dial is seriously photogenic, thanks to its dramatic architecture and finishing. The constantly whirring, slightly off-centre tourbillon is the undisputed star.…