The A. Lange & Söhne Triple Split – or the Triple “Wow Effect”
In the watchmaking world, there is the chronograph complication – in itself a complex type of movement that is hard to develop and to assemble. Then, there is the flyback chronograph, allowing for an instant reset-start of the timing session. And for years, right at the top of the food chain was the Split Seconds or rattrapante chronograph – the ultimate version of the stopwatch. That was the status quo until A. Lange & Söhne came on the market with a watch nicknamed by collectors the “Mighty Double Split” or the “Über-Chronograph“, a timepiece with split seconds and split minutes. This year, at the SIHH 2018, A. Lange & Söhne presented the Triple Split, the “mighter than mighty” version of its rattrapante chronograph. One watch that holds sway over them all…
From the first days of my downward spiral into my geeky obsession with horology, the world of the independent watchmakers has always held a warm place in my heart. Even when the Swiss watch industry was filled with doom and gloom, these small passion-fuelled outfits forged ahead, creating new and innovative releases at a time when the big-box brands were doing their best to stay afloat by releasing an endless flood of dial variations and other minor updates. In recent years, this unique microcosm of watchmaking has continued to see growing interest from the collecting and enthusiast community at large, as more and more watch fans develop a taste for high watchmaking that skews a little outside the norm. This year at SIHH I spent an inordinate amount of time in the Carré des Horlogers — the show’s independent watchmaking hub, and my “home away from home”, if you will — to take an in-depth look at what the industry’s more creative minds have cooked up for the new year. Here’s what I uncovered. Richard Mille RM 53-01 Tourbillon Pablo Mac Donough Squeezing Richard Mille onto this list involved a bit of debate, as in terms of market presence and…
Visiting Cartier at SIHH is always an experience. Not only does the floorspace of the maison’s booth outstrip that of any other, but there’s always a sense of effortless cool, matched only by the sort of self-assurance that only comes from having been masters of your craft for a long, long time. Cartier Santos de Cartier Take, for example, the Cartier Santos. The watch, which lays claim to being the first modern wristwatch, was born in 1904, and is wearing its age well. This year, Cartier gave the model some smart, user-friendly upgrades – most notably the QuickSwitch strap changing system. Thankfully, these changes don’t mar the purity of the Santos case, which has received only minor ergonomic updates and subtle changes to the proportions of the bezel. Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton Cartier is well known for their skeletonised watches, so it made perfect sense for the Santos to get the stripped-down treatment. Offered in steel and pink gold large versions, this Santos, with its architectural Roman bridges, is an entirely more modern proposition. Cartier Révélation d’une Panthère Watch Seeing this watch for the first time was one of the real ‘wow’ moments of SIHH 2018. An entirely new…
For over 30 years the Portofino has been amongst IWC’s dressiest offerings, with a rounded Lépine-inspired case, and elegant, elongated Roman numerals. So it comes as no surprise that the line has a prominent place in IWC’s 150th anniversary collection. And while there’s simpler offerings, such as the Automatic and the Chronograph, our eyes (and hearts) were drawn to the more complex Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years”. Looking at the watch its easy to see why. 45mm of rich red gold protecting the calibre 59800, with moon phase and power reserve, all topped off with that deep, deep blue dial, with gold details (like that oh-so-romantic moon). It might not be a dress watch in the typical, diminutive sense, but there’s no denying its a showstopper. IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years” Australian pricing and availability IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Moon Phase Edition “150 Years in red gold, limited to 150 pieces, $34,200.
If you’ve been paying attention to my recent spate of best-of/top lists (and if you haven’t, what’s wrong with you?!), you’ll know that I have a sense of style and taste that is dazzling in its brilliance, mercurial in its consistency, and as sophisticated as white tie at a garden party. I’ve recently sung my praises for gem-set wonders, hi-tech wrist gadgets that stretch the conceptual definition of ‘watch’, and occasionally a smaller, vintage-inspired piece. So, going into SIHH 2018, knowing that I’d have to come up with a smart, snappy and sassy ‘top 5’ a few days later, I was filled with wonder and anticipation. Would I be drawn to outstanding statement pieces (the thinnest, the expensivest, the eroticest) or would I rein myself in and keep it real? Nobody knew, least of all myself … until now. So, without any further superlative (or is that superfluous?) waffle – here’s my SIHH top 5. Cartier Santos de Cartier A smart reworking of an icon that manages to be — depending on which option you opt for — either totally OTT (that’d be the full yellow gold) or perfect for everyday office (steel on leather, obvs). But it’s the user-friendly…
Designing a collection as wide and as important as IWC’s jubilee collection must represent quite the challenge. It needs to be new and innovative, but also remain true to the brand’s deepest roots. I think, by and large, that IWC have done a fine job. Not only does the diverse, 27-watch collection have a clear, unifying theme, thanks to the richly lacquered white and blue dials, but the selection of models is a good balance of their greatest hits and historically significant models. The Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days Edition “150 Years” fits into both camps quite neatly. The important reference has enjoyed ever-increasing popularity since it first made its way back into the IWC catalogue in the early ’90s. And just quietly, I think this limited edition hand-wound Portugieser is one of the most attractive takes on the model ever released. Hands down. It’s got everything you need, and nothing you don’t. Offered in either steel (1000 pieces) or red gold (250 pieces) versions — both with white dials — the watch is effortlessly, unashamedly classic. The black printed sans-serif Arabic numerals, railroad-style minute track, seconds dial and IWC logo are crisply printed, and given plenty of space on the…