The Superb Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar School Piece in Pale Yellow Gold
For the SIHH 2018, Laurent Ferrier had quite a lot of novelties up his sleeve and his latest watch features a new movement and an unprecedented complication for the brand: an annual calendar. Housed in the sleek, round Montre Ecole (School Piece) case, the Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar already impressed us just by looking at photos… And then came the surprise of Ferrier’s new movement housed in a great looking new gold alloy. Clearly, one of the most elegant and desirable watches of the SIHH 2018.
While the rules about how a man should dress for formal occasions are more relaxed than in the past, they are still governed by the principles of timelessness: elegance, discretion, refinement and restraint. Self-expression and individuality are all very well, but wearing a chunky, sporty watch with a dinner suit (or even a formal business suit) will forever remain a stylistic faux pas. And that’s as much a question of aesthetics as social convention. It follows that a dress watch should be slim, relatively small (by today’s standards), made of precious metal, and with a white, cream or black dial that – preferably – displays nothing more than the hours, minutes and seconds by way of simple indexes. If you’re at all familiar with Lange’s line-up you will have noticed that I just described its Saxonia time-only collection. When elegance is as pure as that, it’s a bit risky to add another element – especially one that is as visually strong as Lange’s signature outsize date. But Lange has nailed it, giving the watch a deep, inky black dial (made of galvanised solid silver) and matching black date disc with white printed numerals. The applied hour markers are solid gold,…
IWC’s Portugieser line is, in Australia at least, one of their most popular — and, of all the models, one of the perennial favourites is the classically handsome Portugieser Chronograph. Which is why we’re particularly interested in the Portugieser Chronograph Edition “150 Years”. Quick recap in case you’ve been living under a rock for the last week or so: This year, IWC turns 150 (and we don’t mind saying that they’re looking quite good for their age), and one of the ways they’re celebrating the big occasion is with watches. Specifically, 27 special limited editions, released across five key lines. Now, the Portugieser Chronograph may lack the high-end clout of the Constant Force, or the novel display of the Pallweber, but it is, nonetheless, an important model. Like all the models in this jubilee collection, the chrono is offered in two special, heavily lacquered dials in blue or white that do a fine job of evoking the look of enamel. There are not precious metal options; only steel, and both come on a black alligator strap. So, nice dial aside, what makes this watch special? Well, the movement. Typically, Portugieser Chronos have closed caseback, as they’re powered by a Valjoux. Not…
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph WT is, in marked contrast to the Polaris Automatic, a complex beast indeed, with (as you could probably guess) both chronograph and world time functionality in the one case. It’s not the first time we’ve seen this complication-combo, as the very impressive Calibre 752 pops up in sportier parts of their collection. But while previous incarnations have been quite modern in their style, the bi-compax chrono and world time are well suited to the old-world inspired looks of the Polaris. Nothing vintage about the case though – this 44mm titanium number is thoroughly modern. And, sure, all the extra information on the dial does complicate the cleaner design codes of the Polaris line, but the key features are there: the range of varied dial finishes, the applied trapezoid markers, the black and ocean blue colouring. And all that extra dial detail makes for a much richer on-the-wrist experience. With its functional design, wearer-friendly lightweight case rated to 100m, solid 65 hours of power reserve and undeniable charms, the Polaris Chronograph WT is a strong option for fans of JLC’s complex offerings who crave a more classic look.